Steve's RCR GT40 Build
- Thread starter steveklafeta
- Start date
Hi Steve: Just a word of caution: the rod which holds the clutch release fork does not seem to be stock Quaife (Theirs does not have the three grooves at the splined end). I had the same in my ZFQ and it sheared off at the inner groove (see my build log). I just put in an original rod supplied by Quaife. It comes without the weakening grooves. At most you need one groove for the clamping bolt and I recommend you have one machined into one of Quaife's original rods right where you need it ( In my case a few slight brushes with a file did the job. ). I just put my car back together again. Also it is very important to keep a proper free play between clutch fingers and release bearing. This calls for a properly sized release bearing piston, then a fine adjustment of the length of the slave cylinder rod, as explained elsewhere on this forum. Finally, clutch pedal travel may have to be restricted. You don't want unnecessary pressure in the system. Good luck and lots of enjoyment with your build.
It’s been 2 months since my last confession. I work on the car every day but progress eludes me. I have a plan, work the plan and determine it’s a crappy plan. I started with the gas tanks. First, I needed some holes.
Next goes the tank. Sounds easy. I have put that stupid tank in and out 20 times to line up the fittings. I enlarged the hole for the filler hose and attached the vent in the front. The sender and pickup were installed in the back. I used hard aluminum line to the filter and flexible PTFE on either side of the aeromotive fuel pump. The tank has a block welded to the back and it’s screwed into the wall The front is secured with a bracket. The entire tank is wedged in with rubber. I CAD designed some covers and anodized them.
Next goes the tank. Sounds easy. I have put that stupid tank in and out 20 times to line up the fittings. I enlarged the hole for the filler hose and attached the vent in the front. The sender and pickup were installed in the back. I used hard aluminum line to the filter and flexible PTFE on either side of the aeromotive fuel pump. The tank has a block welded to the back and it’s screwed into the wall The front is secured with a bracket. The entire tank is wedged in with rubber. I CAD designed some covers and anodized them.
I used lizard skin sound and heat coating on the firewall and cockpit. Unfortunately, it’s winter in Michigan. That stuff needs at least 60 and preferably 70 degrees to cure. I had to rent a propane heater to jack up the heat in the garage. Lizard skin is pretty thick so the suspension blocks on the bottom don’t fit. I had to chisel it away. The firewall is to be doubled up like in Tom’s post.
I am using the clutch release lever from Safir. It has a different spline number than the Quaife. So I purchased and installed the rod from Safir. Hopefully it doesn’t bust.
Yes, Quaife for some reason decided to use a different spline count and offer their own push rod lever. My setup is not from Safir based on the spline count and the shape of the lever. So good luck with your build- I'm sure in the end joy will win over any occasional frustration ;-)
Rod Dittmar
Supporter
Hi Steve,
Really nice meticulous work and looking great! Note: I cut those 'ears' off the bottom of my bellhousing also.
Rod
Really nice meticulous work and looking great! Note: I cut those 'ears' off the bottom of my bellhousing also.
Rod
I was about to ask! Some people don’t paint the aluminum panels and I was wondering why? What are the cons and pros.
Again, I’m no expert. Here’s my reasoning. The aluminum does oxidize. However, I don’t think holes would appear in our lifetime. One guy polished the entire chassis like he was trying to win an Overdrive Pride and PoIish competition. Got to get it to a mirror like finish. I went with 2k epoxy primer with chassis paint over top. Others use POR 15 and look up some posts from Neil. He uses airplane grade etch to prevent oxidation. I think it looks cool with a black backdrop behind the engine. I was planning on raptor liner for the undercarriage and lizard skin inside. Both require a primer over the bare metal. Plus, it gives me something to drag this entire endeavor out, while I wait for my air conditioner parts.
Rod Dittmar
Supporter
Andres,
I don't think there are any cons to applying paint to the aluminum unless of course you just don't like the look of it. However, because it will oxidize, you should coat it with something. If you like shiny, then put a product such as Sharkhide on it. Very easy to apply, I used it on the Cobra I built 8 years ago and the panels still look as good today as they did back then. Meanwhile, back to Steve's build log.....
Rod
I don't think there are any cons to applying paint to the aluminum unless of course you just don't like the look of it. However, because it will oxidize, you should coat it with something. If you like shiny, then put a product such as Sharkhide on it. Very easy to apply, I used it on the Cobra I built 8 years ago and the panels still look as good today as they did back then. Meanwhile, back to Steve's build log.....
Rod
Neil
Supporter
Painting aluminum panels is more that simply for appearance. A fundamental question is "What is the aluminum alloy?" Some alloys, mainly the weldable grades are suitable for leaving bare. So, too are the "Alclad" alloys, the ones with a very thin skin of pure aluminum bonded to their outside surfaces. High-strength alloys such as 2024-T3 or 7075-T6 are very corrosion -prone and should be coated with primer at a minimum. My stressed bottom panel is 7075-T6, the highest strength aluminum alloy, so there was no option of leaving it bare.
Here is a short holiday update. I had a small victory with my greatest nemesis to date. I posted long ago the problem I was having with my throw out bearing being too long. I had a machinist friend holding on to it for months to no avail. He was concerned about turning hardened steel and the number of blades he would destroy trying to cut it. Thank God for YouTube. I found 2 guys from Australia cutting a motorcycle axle. I turned my drill press into a lathe and used a dremel drill. I was able to get the center axis of the bearing using an expandable wedge stopper for 2 inch pipe for $5.00 from Home Depot.
Nice work Steve Merry Christmas!
Rod Dittmar
Supporter
Steve,
Nice job solving a problem using a rather interesting bit of machining! Ya gotta love ingenuity! How many of those Dremel discs did you go through to do that?
Rod
Nice job solving a problem using a rather interesting bit of machining! Ya gotta love ingenuity! How many of those Dremel discs did you go through to do that?
Rod
