Time for a little update on the state of affairs:
My early ZFQ box was factory refurbished (new synchros, ring and pinion, …) and upgraded (pretty much to current specs I was told) and mated with engine and new clutch (SPEC Stage 2).
This unit was installed back into the chassis. The water pump was modified: outlet to the heater was plugged externally and internally, and the thermostat was removed. As a consequence the radiator circuit is used permanently and there is no more pressure to the header tank which is connected to the water pump via the heater inlet. With the water pump, alternator, AC compressor etc. removed removal and refitting of the engine-gbx unit is fairly simple (no need to remove the rear wheels, rear floor, springs, etc. ).
The exhaust system (now with ceramic coating) was fitted.
Fluids were filled (engine primed with oil, 5W50 was used). Injector seals needed renewal (some leaked fuel). Engine fired right up but zero oil pressure indicated by the gauge). So the oil pressure was measured at the sender location: read fine and also from the gauge thereon. However a first short test drive showed oil pressure problems with symptoms similar to before the rebuild: pressure dropped from reasonable to about 10 psi within about 15 min of driving. After several tests the oil cooler circuit was identified as the culprit. The oil thermostat was eliminated and new oil lines were installed. This fixed the oiling problem entirely (~100psi at idle when cold, about 50psi when hot with the red Katech oil pump).
Two more problems were found: one of the race kats had disintegrated blocking one exhaust pipe. Exhaust was freed and the internals of the other kat were removed to protect the engine for now. Car drove home without problems - had to refrain from speeding though ;-) .
New kats will need to be installed before I take the car to the annual inspection. Finally, the gearbox would not take reverse (and first, as I found out later). A slightly loose bolt at the first joint was identified as the culprit. All well now.
With both seats out I removed the front bracket/cover holding the hand brake lever to learn about the feasibility of hand brake adjustment. Will continue on over the weekend time permitting.
My early ZFQ box was factory refurbished (new synchros, ring and pinion, …) and upgraded (pretty much to current specs I was told) and mated with engine and new clutch (SPEC Stage 2).
This unit was installed back into the chassis. The water pump was modified: outlet to the heater was plugged externally and internally, and the thermostat was removed. As a consequence the radiator circuit is used permanently and there is no more pressure to the header tank which is connected to the water pump via the heater inlet. With the water pump, alternator, AC compressor etc. removed removal and refitting of the engine-gbx unit is fairly simple (no need to remove the rear wheels, rear floor, springs, etc. ).
The exhaust system (now with ceramic coating) was fitted.
Fluids were filled (engine primed with oil, 5W50 was used). Injector seals needed renewal (some leaked fuel). Engine fired right up but zero oil pressure indicated by the gauge). So the oil pressure was measured at the sender location: read fine and also from the gauge thereon. However a first short test drive showed oil pressure problems with symptoms similar to before the rebuild: pressure dropped from reasonable to about 10 psi within about 15 min of driving. After several tests the oil cooler circuit was identified as the culprit. The oil thermostat was eliminated and new oil lines were installed. This fixed the oiling problem entirely (~100psi at idle when cold, about 50psi when hot with the red Katech oil pump).
Two more problems were found: one of the race kats had disintegrated blocking one exhaust pipe. Exhaust was freed and the internals of the other kat were removed to protect the engine for now. Car drove home without problems - had to refrain from speeding though ;-) .
New kats will need to be installed before I take the car to the annual inspection. Finally, the gearbox would not take reverse (and first, as I found out later). A slightly loose bolt at the first joint was identified as the culprit. All well now.
With both seats out I removed the front bracket/cover holding the hand brake lever to learn about the feasibility of hand brake adjustment. Will continue on over the weekend time permitting.
