Knock On Spinners - How Do You Manage Them

I'm mostly interested in your tightening process.

How tight do you set them.
What do you use to tighten.
How do you know when they are secure enough.
Will safety wiring actually prevent one from unthreading.
Do you grease/oil the threads.

Have you had previous problems with any particular technique.
Have you had no problems with any particular technique.
 
Jay, sounds simple and it is if you know what to do, we would like info on what you already have, and make you aware of the pitfalls and the easy way. Call me if you want to discuss , Frank
 
That's similar to another video.

The guy is hardly using any torque.
Is that how you guys see it as well?
Jay, sounds simple and it is if you know what to do, we would like info on what you already have, and make you aware of the pitfalls and the easy way. Call me if you want to discuss , Frank
The GT40 is a Southern.
With their knock ons.

I've had one or two "events" whereby one came loose - very loose.

I will be at Spa next week and want to avoid another event!

I've got a new set of spinners [now AK] and want to set off on the right foot.
I've meticulously cleaned both external hub threads and the internal spinner threads and all for spinners are spinning on with one finger.
I have greased them and am ready to safety wire but before wanted the views of best practise.

Thanks
 

Rick Muck- Mark IV

GT40s Sponsor
Supporter
Safety wire is a "tell", not a "cure". Knock-offs need torque to tighten them, a spinner tool on a breaker bar does not deliver that. A 6# lead hammer does. And after many years of whacking on spinners and missing on a regular basis, I have yet to damage or permanently mark a wheel, alloy, magnesium or even a Borrani alloy rim.
 
Safety wire is a "tell", not a "cure". Knock-offs need torque to tighten them, a spinner tool on a breaker bar does not deliver that. A 6# lead hammer does. And after many years of whacking on spinners and missing on a regular basis, I have yet to damage or permanently mark a wheel, alloy, magnesium or even a Borrani alloy rim.
That's kind of what I've been doing, as tight as possible with a hammer.
The guy in the posted video doesn't appear to be putting any force into the process.
Am I missing something?
 
By successively hitting the ears of the spinner you are applying a torque value that adds up until the sound changes at which point you have achieved the total torque required to secure the wheel. Also, you should not grease your hub or knock off but rather be applying a small amount of anti-seize to the threads and mating surface between the wheel and hub, especially if you have dissimilar metals involved (aluminum knockoff and steel hub for instance).
 
By successively hitting the ears of the spinner you are applying a torque value that adds up until the sound changes at which point you have achieved the total torque required to secure the wheel. Also, you should not grease your hub or knock off but rather be applying a small amount of anti-seize to the threads and mating surface between the wheel and hub, especially if you have dissimilar metals involved (aluminum knockoff and steel hub for instance).
Thanks,
I'm trying to find a 6lb / 25kg lead hammer [UK based]
So far they seem to max out at around 4lb here.

I'll replicate Dennis's and see how I get on.
 
That's what I need, but left it too late .
Hi Jay, after trying a few dead blow hammers I bought this 6lb lump off Amazon but currently out of stock. Weight seems right, heavy enough to do the job but controllable within the rims https://amzn.eu/d/1ZTNzzc PS> I was looking out for you en-route to Donington this year just in case :0)
 

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Mark H.

Supporter
Looking at a few knock off's and noticed that all are not created equal in regard to taper. Some 60 degree, some 58, some 57 some 55. Blued some and tightened on the wheel. Some only had a 1/16" wide contact point. I would think this would have a major effect on maintaining torque. Luckily I have a lathe to correct this, but it might be worth the time to take a look at this if swapping your knock offs or if they just won't stay tight.
 
6lbs lead hammer is great, or you can use a spinner tool, and torque it to 425lbs
Hi guys , the hammer practice is the simple way but the best and secure way is the spinner tool and a torque wrench. Look at any car race or Formula one Grand Prix, do you see them to use a hammer ?
Also do not forget to put cupper grease on the thread before.
RJ, I recorded a torque of 300 lbs are you shure of 426 ?
 
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