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The threads going into the slave are likely to be either 7/16-20 or 3/8-24. Check with a bolt. Then you need an adapter from that thread to the hose (hopefully a dash-4 female thread. You'll need something similar at the other end, but using an inverted thread to connect with the hard line on...

The early front uprights have a caliper hole pattern about 5.12". The horizontal distance (front/rear) is 5.08" between the top holes, 5.68" between the bottom holes (theoretically). That fits the caliper around an 11.5" rotor which fits in the original-style pin drive wheel.

Cheaper monocoque? Not around here. The CNC parts alone (>100 separate parts) are worth what a tube chassis costs to put together, and it takes about twice as long to assemble (not including what a tube chassis requires for adding the sheet metal.)

Also look at https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/

http://erareplicas.com/cars/2066/index.htm

Be careful. Diesel is more dense than gasoline, and will effect (raise) the level of the float over gasoline.

"They are also relatively softly spring and therefore will transfer even more weight forward under braking forces as well. " The only factor that influences steady-state weight transfer is the height of the CG divided by the wheelbase, although you can get some strange things happening during...

Generally, king pin inclination is built in to decrease the distance from the center of the contact patch to the virtual ground level pivot point. The smaller the distance, the less feedback from uneven surfaces, especially under braking forces. It's a tradeoff between kpi effects, castor...

If the master cylinder reservoir height is lower than the slave cylinder, it's (slightly) possible to bleed air back into the system.

We've done lots of RHD cars, including (I think) the Spyder. However, judging from the tunnel shape, pedal box and the shift-linkage cover, that's not ours.

I wired my standard wireless backup camera to the trailer parking light power. I just turn the parking lights on when I want to see in back.

The original front upright "axle" centerline is approximately centered vertically to the ball joints. That puts the lower control inner pivots' height just above the bottom of the chassis where the lateral forces can fed into the chassis most efficiently.

I don't where this "original" MK2 transaxle drawing came from but it includes the FE bolt pattern. I'd check dimensions before I started machining.

Yes. Braided line should be kept to a minimum. It expands slightly with pressure.

Interesting that the hole is slightly egg-shaped. You might try torquing all the housing-to-block bolts.

The ERA knob is retained by a spring-loaded pin accessed through a hole in the side of the knob's shank.

Generally, diagonals will be stressed about the same as tubes that are more orthogonal. Yours look too small. I don't see any mounts for control arms or spring/dampers. They define how road stresses are transferred into the main structure, and may require structure redesign to optimize the "whole".

"The idea is to find the pickup points where the roll centre remains in the same place as the suspension moves ( as far as possible) This makes the car stable feeling and much nicer to drive. " I have to modify this slightly: It is not necessarily the stability of the roll center height. A...

That depends on whether you're using the old R22 refrigerant or it's been replaced by R410A.

It sounds like you might have some restriction in the hydraulic line. What size hard lines are you using?