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You can get by with lighter wire, especially since it is momentary usage. Assuming 30A, 13.8v and 8 feet of wire, you would see 12.8v with 16ga, 13.2 with 14ga. Not the kind of voltage drop you would want on a fuel pump. But for this usage it's probably a non-issue.

We went and watched Pikes Peak this year as we've been thinking about running it - though not in the SLC. We decided against it as it is a year of prep and then weather can stop you from having a run, or at least a dry run. We would have build a one-off car for it, so a LOT of work and testing...

I switched to a Davies Craig EWP150 for the engine and a EBP23 for Turbo/Waste Gates/Oil-Water heat exchangers . Took the impeller out of the mechanical water pump and took the thermostat out. Used the Davies Electronic controller, but will take that out and let the ECU control it soon. I...

It seems I remember 1 or 2 guys before that had cracks in the tank welds (not on wrecked cars). I was thinking those were early cars. Anyone remember any details? I assume the tank did not take a hard hit. *Seems* that would more than likely be because of a poor choice of filler for the tank...

Or come to the Big Bend Open Road Race....

On my LS7, I welded up the water pump and welded in a new fitting here pointed up and to the left. Made life much easier. Also, I had 200 cell CATs that looked similar to yours - they did nothing to quiet the engine. You probably want mufflers too (I usually try to avoid mufflers).

That's my plan next time I have the spider off. Put a sump in the bottom of the tank, add a few baffles, put the pressure pumps (2) in the tank with hydromat pickups. I'll probably extend the tank to fill the left side that is not used for plumbing. Will simplify things noticeably.

I'll throw my 2 cents in here, but take it for what it is... With aluminum, keep in mind most of these 'raw' materials are heat treated. But the chassis is not heat treated after the welding. So the weld and the HAZ area around it are basically T0 while the material is likely T6. For that...

Chris, Can't say I'm an expert, but I have looked as I am planning on doing the same down the road. I've found nothing that implies you cannot. In addition, up till at least 1969 Detroit was still building cars with split windshields (69 Dodge Sportsman Van) which effectively have the same...

Yes, but on our high reving small blocks we are replacing valve springs about every 2 hours (Sprint Cars). I put a 1UZ in my SLC. It's happy with 8,000 rpm and a monster turbo....

We’ve found the MSPRO ECUs are the best value. We have them on a few cars, including my SLC that ha a Turbo VVTi Toyota v8. No DBW support, but does everything else we can dream up.

I’m in Dallas area. Actually in Fairview (Between Allen and McKinney). Don’t get on the forums regularly. You can call/text me on NineSeventyTwo 529-8190. I have contacts for other DFW owners.

I was looking at some of those the other day. Hard to fathom how they get all of the air out since they can't full a full vacuum. Even if they could, not sure everything in the system would hold up to a full vacuum. Seems like there would still have to be some air left in. But in any case...

Ditto on both of those. I currently have 7" springs in rear. It makes putting it together easier, but you may not be able to get the rear high enough for your liking. You will be happier with 8".

And the winner is.... Mr Cole with a guess of 185. Had a number of issues, rectified a number of problems, got a lot of tuning done and have a few "todo" items. A fair number of questions in tech, but no issues getting through. Car tech'd for 199+ (which in English means 215). I think the...

Request number #2 for more cage pictures! ;)

Loaded up the trailer last night, heading to Texas Mile. Put in a fresh engine this last week (had dropped a valve). This motor is a built 1UZ with a GTX4294R. Over on facebook there is a "contest" going to guess my top speed for the weekend. I'll send the winner a T-Shirt from Texas Mile...

Looks good. Can we get more interior/cage pictures?

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but just saw this. Jerry, I had a similar problem. Turned out it was a bad voltage regulator in the alternator. Voltage was way too high. So basically it was cooking the battery. Once cooled off all was good again. The alternator was NEW. Voltage...

You could test the need for additional wire by using a good set of jumper cables. Attach to battery and starter (I'd try attaching + and - in case ground is an issue). If that does not improve things, running the extra wire (or larger gauge) may not fix anything.