Search results

These pictures shows the inner door bear claw backing plate. This plate has 2 functions. One is to reinforce the area where the bolts fasten the bear claw into position and secondly to act as a guide for the door lock rod that must slide back and forth. Starting with the left picture. The...

Here are a couple of pictures of the door hinges mounted to the backside of the spider. The large black steel plate really helps to spread the load on that area. Especially when the door is open. It’s all done to help retain the alignment of the door over the years. The gas strut is mounted to a...

I fabricated and mounted a pair of brackets to the spider for the front hood hinge strut mount. Second picture is showing the matching steel backing plate on the underside.

Back on the build after a long absence. I finally mounted my aero tube mirrors. The second picture shows the steel backing plate for the mirrors inside the door cavity. The second larger vertical steel plate is for the door hinge. I built a second identical pair of mirrors (with inner door...

I used Dan Carters method as well. It was extremely time consuming to get the alignment to match the door card. See my post starting at around #906 on page 46 of my build thread.

If the fuel injected cars have schrader valves on the fuel rail I would remove the cores and connect a hose to it then pump the fuel into a bucket. You can make an electrical jumper wire and connect it to the fuel pump relay so the fuel pump is running with the engine off.

I’ve never seen the fittings I have drawn commercially available. If you are handy then you could cut the parts to fit then take to a welder. A wye fitting would be better than the current t-fitting but introducing a new bend in the main 1.5” tube would slightly hurt flow.

I would first address the t-fitting issue. Very little coolant will flow to the heater core with your current 90 degree fitting. Change it as shown in the drawing. The coolant will then be forced to flow in the appropriate direction.

I would definitely recommend you fuse both the alternator charge wire and starter power wire. I did and most OEMs do as well. In the early days they used fusible links and then migrated to fuses as they became more compact. My alternator charge wire is 4GA and my starter motor is 2/0. Safety is...

I use the nylon screws with aluminum rivnuts fastened and then epoxied from the backside. No issues.

Just remember that whatever sealant you use it must be oxygen sensor safe.

I found that to help alleviate the frustration of waiting for delivery I spent my time building a lot of the parts I was going to add to the car. The engine harness choice, the coolant tank, upgraded cooling fans, fan shroud, upgraded seats and sliders, H Craft tail lights and other H Craft...

I used the stock nylon hose as it’s dirt cheap and used by most OEM. The fittings are about $10 and 20 foot roll of the tubing is under $50. Just remember that the fuel tank isn’t hard mounted so design the system with a bit movement planned. I have a friend who lends me his hydraulic flair...

Have you finished your fuel delivery lines yet Joel? Sorry if I missed that part in the past. I’m curious to see your fuel pressure transducer addition to the fuel line.

That is a great modification Joel. I wish it was available as a kit. I’d buy it for sure. I keep reading about what a horror it is to fit the A-pillar covers. Can you provide a material list and what was the machined the diameter of the tube that slip fit into the existing tube?

Can you tell us about the tail lights. They look cool.

Still searching for a Superlite GT-R fuel tank.

The rivet body falls back into the tubing then there is an expanding wax spray to shoot in the hole. This encapsulates the rivet body to stop it from rattling around. ;)

I use solid sealing aluminum rivets. I didn’t want galvanic corrosion since these fasteners are in contact with water and the frame is aluminum.

Mesa, I haven’t heard about a Mitsubishi stub shaft. I thought that the RCR Upgrade came with a 30spline two piece Nissan stubshaft. The C7 bearing requires the larger DSS one piece 33spline stubshaft. Howard , the correct axle shaft length is fairly easy to determine. This picture of my shaft...