Self tapping screws for brake line clamps?

[venius]

Can I use self tapping or sheet metal screws... to screw down brake line clamps. .. I was using drill bit with die.. But broke two of them flush with frame ...(ouch,ill have to figure that out later).. I have a lot of good holes but can't risk anymore drill mishaps..

 

[Joel K]

I don’t see why not, but something isn’t right with how you are tapping the holes. No way should you be braking taps in 1/8” to 1/4” aluminun.

When tapping, make sure the drill is the correct size, use a little oil or tap-magic on the tap. When you start to feel resistance in the tap, back it out and clean it off. Then reinsert and continue to tap, repeat if you start to feel too much resistance.

 

[Alex]

i wouldn't - at some point one or two are probably going to loosen and find their way in to your tire

are you tapping the holes with a drill - if so, you can definately use the drill to do so, but the risk of snapping a tap off increases exponentially, versus doing it by hand, if you get sloppy for a second (drill crooked, threads clogged and drill kicks, etc.)

 

[Ryan L]

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

How about using "rivnuts" for screws? No issues with tapping and they will provide more thread engagement than tapping thinner aluminum.

 

[DaveC]

Why not rivets?

 

[venius]

I used a thin drill/tap bit. 10-24 and ummm they might of been generic... . rivets are to permanent for me on brake line .. I am going to use rivnuts on the 2x6 side frame rails..instead of tap...but the drill screws are actually working well..but I will tap by hand instead. I just have to wait for the double hold down clips in the mail ...new cluch lines and rear brake lines re-routed and put on!!...now I have to wire the front brakes....I was going to put the brake lines outside of footwell instead of
the inside ...so I don't have to work under the dash too much...I won't tap with drill bit..that's where I think it went wrong...thanks!!!

 

[DaveC]

Nothing permanent about a rivet! I can have 8 out in the time you back out 1 screw...

 

[Howard Jones]

I used aluminum 1/8" diameter rivets for that. Aluminum rivets drill out for removal really easily. They are cheaper and lighter than stainless steel screws, will not loosen when installed correctly, and have no worries about stripping threads in the parent material. I like to use them for things that in most cases will never be removed but just might need to be disassembled due to some unforeseen reason. Perfect for brake lines, water lines, fuel lines, and other tubing held in place with 'p' clips.

 

[Ken Roberts]

I use solid sealing aluminum rivets. I didn’t want galvanic corrosion since these fasteners are in contact with water and the frame is aluminum.

 

[venius]

I woke up early,went to the store and bought a hand tap.. Works great.. I didn't use the drill screws. (Well, one hole..but re-tapped it) I couldn't sleep thinking about it and it only took 5 seconds more than drill/tap bit...I feel better now ..I didn't want to rivet because if I ever had to move it. I think..the pieces end up in the boxed in frame. No way to clean it out?.. Glad u guys actually made me rethink the drill screws..

 

[Ken Roberts]

The rivet body falls back into the tubing then there is an expanding wax spray to shoot in the hole. This encapsulates the rivet body to stop it from rattling around.

 

[DaveC]

I probably have 20 loose rivet bodies in the frame of my Cobra. What's the concern again?

 

[venius]

I just didn't want a rattle IF there even is one....I just like to be able to break things apart and put them back together without grinding because knowing me I might have to change things over 2 or 3 times and 1 of those times might be because I didnt do it right the first time!(lol).. But I do have a riveter and rivnuts..if I need em