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Hi Russell, I have received my new resin and continued laying up today with much improved results, i have ordered some of the mat which should be here tomorrow so it will be full steam ahead. I have tacked up my 180 deg exhaust system which I will refit and final weld hopefully tomorrow. I'll...

Hey guys thanks for the quick replies. As you will both know my back stays come back to the heads, specifically the intake manifold bolts so I have to be able to remove them to work on the engine without removing the entire engine/trans/suspension assembly. I have answered your PM Andrew look...

Hi Andrew, A question for you, I see your back stays on your Roll Bar are hinged how did you get on with Motorsport NZ as I have been told they cannot be hinged. Cheers Leon.

Thanks Terry, Heat hasn't been an issue so far but I will put a frame around the molds so they can sit on the floor and stay square when I lay up the body panels. I have put strengtheners the length of the fin and through the length of the fender so that should keep that stiff I'll put some...

Hey Russell, need some help URGENT!! Started the make my mold the last couple of days and could really do with some advice. Things have not started well as it seems my Resin is dodgy, probably too old, got half way through a 20L drum and the last have is Jelly. what I have done seems to be Ok...

I have been saying it for a long time now but it is official, I have a fully self supporting rolling chassis. Now I have to mock up the headers and I can pull the engine and get it to the builder this week. I will concentrate on the body and the little items to finish the tub ready for the...

Hello guys, Terry: 1/2" Chrome molly through the whole car except for the front king pin caged joints which are 5/8" and the tie rod ends are 3/8 molly. To be totaly honest I have just built this the same configuration as the original and not bothered too much about why they did it. I believe...

More progress, I have assembled up the rear suspension to make sure it all fits before I pull the engine back out and send it to the engine builder on Friday, all the parts are now balanced, machined and ready to assemble so will run on the Dyno before it goes back in the chassis so hopefully...

Will be good to see another build taking place on here Rod looking forward to it, what is it you are building this time is it a McLaren?? I painted the buck today so it will be ready for F/G this week. I painted the wheel centre's a couple of different styles to see what I like and to be honest...

Hi Rod, yes the clear tube is hi temp. I know I'm going to get slammed for the headers as the original one go under and exit under the rear panel. Mine go up and will exit through the opening in the rear panel. the reason I have gone this way is the ease of installation as it is very busy down...

Hey guys, Some more progress has been made, this week all the plumbing has been done some headers have been purchased but will need some mods the front wing was coloured and graffic's added. I now have the paint and the buck is ready for F/glass so hoping to do that next week, Tyres were all...

Terry the original was only two piece because the mechanics hand carried them on the flight from England to the US so they cut them in half to be small enough. Nice work Russell how far away from running it are you. Cheers Leon

That flat area on the side is there so you can mount a bracket that can either be a Radial mount or a Lug mount, Not knowing what the Brake set up is going to be makes it hard to have the right set up on the Housing. I now don't put lugs on the rears but leave a square so it can be drilled and...

Hi Rod, don't take the axle out of the bearing. Take the curclip out of the front of the bearing, undo the nut on the drive flange and take the drive flange off (I made as special puller to do this) simple piece of square bar threaded hole in the middle, two holes to attach to the drive flange...

Hi Terry, I have looked at the Goodyears and the Avons are a better size and a better price here in NZ because the F5000 guys keep up the demand, having said that, Tony Cardwell (NZ Hoosier agent) told me Kenny Smith will be testing "Hoosiers" for the F5000s this year . I haven't written the...

Hey Rob, I spoke to the Hoosier agent here in NZ and he got a reply back from Hoosier in the US saying they don't supply tyres to suit the Can-Am cars anymore, can you check for me with the 917/30 guy to what it is they use. They do the size 27/17/15 for asphalt sprint cars but the guy here says...

Hi Rod, Fronts are 11" wide with 23/10.5/15 Avons, The steering stops are at the bottom arm spherical joint and I have not looked for a sway bar yet but it will mount in the same way as the original and connect to the back of the bottom shock mount bolt. i'll put some photos of the front wheels...

I will have a look at the Hoosiers, Thanks Rob. I measured the tyre unmounted and it was 18'' bead to bead and yes it is stretched but it doesn't look wrong (Drifter Tyre Wrong) if you know what I mean!! I think the 16.5" will be much better, just for show the M/T with the tread that looks like...

You are correct Rob, 19" wide with a 26/15/15 Tyre. the fronts are 11" with 23/10.5/15 Tyre's. I have made these wheels 2 peice, the main reason was the casting cost and it gives me the ability to easily make them in different widths. These ones have a steel inner because of the bell needed for...

Finally!!! some wheels I have the wheels cast and tyres on 1 front and 1 rear will have the other two mounted tomorrow and get the fronts on the tub. The body has progressed a bit more while I was away, my mate Kelvin put in a few hours of sanding, fabbed up the bottom of the rear panel and...