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Time for an update. The front and hinge was a little shaky so I triangulated the construction, it`s now quite stiff. Also changed to M12 Heimjoints at the hinge itself.

You can get them in 8AN. Part no: SS-810-6-8AN

Hi Stephan, I’ve had a brake from the SL-C build for a while, but I’m back at it again. Just started to fabricate a center console in foam. Trying to figure out how to make a hot wire cutter, if it works with a battery charger. Going to Stockholm in two weeks to tune the engine. Actually need...

Cam, you can definetly hear on the video that the engine is turning, don’t think there is anything wrong with the bendix. Could it be something wrong with your DigitalGuardDawg? IIRC it controls ignition as well.

Ken, thanks a lot for this post. I finally figured out my poor idle quality. Since I have the Dailey dry sump system I blocked off all the PCV outlets and just running a vaccuum regulator on pax side valve cover. (Set to 12 inches) I’ll try a 2,5 mm orifice at the TB inlet.

Joel, I think the best way to fix this is to weld the holes and redrill after procedure in Cam’s post #9. I would definetly not put any preload on the chassis by loosening the brackets and retightening. Your problem is your lower longitudinal beams spaced too far apart, just correct it with new...

I’m in for a set, street splitter.

Very, very sad to hear. Rest in peace Mark

I’m in, street splitter.

Joel, mine measures 626 mm inside/inside the beams both front and aft. My mounts was a perfect fit.

Joel, to me it lookes like your lower frame rail is mounted/welded too far apart, since both front and aft motor mounts are too narrow. During the day I’ll measure mine so you can compare the distance.

No, the post #45 is the unmodified shifter, I’ll get back to you with the modified set up.

Ken, I will post asap, the thing is I’m on vacation in Florida. I think I have a couple of pics on my build log. I cut the aluminium mount and angled it a bit to get it as low as possible.I would say about 25-30 degrees. I now have approximatly 2 mm between the lower part of the stick (where...

I would most likely gone with own design Speedhut gauges if I known about them earlier. Aim is not that bad, you can get loads of info to the display via can bus from your Ecu.

I have no pics of the ”Speedhit” , but my Aim setup similar to CamT’s. Check his blog

Hi Mahlon, if you want ”real” guages, check out Speedhut.com. You can design you own guages. Myself, I’m using the Aim strada.

Ken, I can just confirm what Cam says concerning cable adjustment. I have the stock R8 cables (Audi all the way) and it took 15 minutes max to adjust them, going one turn at a time until it was perfect. I would suggest to go with the R8 cables, if not you have to modify the forward cable...

Hi John, I was totally prepared for some clearencing when we istalled your transfer gear, but as it turned out it was not nessesary. After your post here I called my friend doing the gear change and he is as certain as I am it was not needed. Just to be certain I went out to my garage and...

FYI, I didn’t need any clearncing/grinding when installed into a KVJ (R8 V10) That was with the 1,04:1 gear

I must agree with Cam, if 5 studs can’t hold he load, one plastic centering ring will not do job eighter. I’m not using mine eighter, just pay attention when tightening the lug nuts to center the wheel.