And so it begins...the AP build.

[Randy V]

I deepened my double-nostril panel to get more air through the radiator.
I made templates out of cardboard that filled the gaps, then laid Saran Wrap over the templates and then laid up a couple layers of fiberglass mat with West Systems Epoxy Resin over the templates. Popped the templates off and then cut the shapes out with Tin Snips.
Placed my Fiberglass pieces into the gaps and using strips of fiberglass cloth and WS Resins, I bonded the parts together. I don’t have many pics any more, but it turned out pretty nice I think.

 

[Brian]

WOW. I was planning on doing something similar to my double snorkel, but haven't gotten to even seriously thinking about it. You hit it out of the park with that making it look like is should.

Nice job Randy

 

[joe]

I deepened my double-nostril panel to get more air through the radiator.
I made templates out of cardboard that filled the gaps, then laid Saran Wrap over the templates and then laid up a couple layers of fiberglass mat with West Systems Epoxy Resin over the templates. Popped the templates off and then cut the shapes out with Tin Snips.
Placed my Fiberglass pieces into the gaps and using strips of fiberglass cloth and WS Resins, I bonded the parts together. I don’t have many pics any more, but it turned out pretty nice I think.View attachment 134099View attachment 134100View attachment 134101

How did you deal with adding depth? Did you cut along the edge and then bend the floor down to the new depth?

 

[Randy V]

How did you deal with adding depth? Did you cut along the edge and then bend the floor down to the new depth?

I used a cutting wheel along the bottom of each nostril, then a heat gun to warp it downward. There was more material needed at the leading edge also.
It was definitely an Arts&Crafts project….
I loved working with West Systems products..

 

[joe]

You basically use the epoxy to bond the panels together? Did you then put a layer of fiberglass over the splices?
I'm concerned about mapping through the eventual paint. Hopefully, this can be prevented by having the top layers of the modified areas as close to the parent material as possible.

 

[Randy V]

You basically use the epoxy to bond the panels together? Did you then put a layer of fiberglass over the splices?
I'm concerned about mapping through the eventual paint. Hopefully, this can be prevented by having the top layers of the modified areas as close to the parent material as possible.

West Systems Epoxy Resin. Resin saturated fiberglass was used to bond all the parts together. I used Rage Gold body filler to finish.

 

[joe]

Lots of head scratching as I re-engineer the front rad support area. The side frame will look similar to what the factory cars had…only beefier. I’m looking at installing a tow bar and doing away with the cross bar blan hing that AP uses. I’m trying to figure out how I can incorporate a front clam hanger- hing similar to what RCR uses for their rear clam.

 

[joe]

I’m thinking that I can reverse the original mounts that would be spaced out from the inner front fender area of the front clam…extending the tow bar and using it for the hinge hanger.
BTW…the way these close out pieces were slapped in and installed is definitely not up to my standards. They will be computed and reinstalled with West Systems epoxy.

 

[joe]

….the prototype. The tow bar goes through the upper diagonal bar extending down from the upper firewall frame.

 

[Neil]

….the prototype. The tow bar goes through the upper diagonal bar extending down from the upper firewall frame.View attachment 134683

How can it be a "Tow" bar if the slot is open-ended?

 

[joe]

The tow bar will be welded at the pass through points on the upright. It will extend towards the inner fenders on the clam and serve as the pivot point for the original AP slotted brackets that will be mounted to the clam. The clam will pivot at the inner fenders.

 

[joe]

Some of the inspiration:

 

[Neil]

The tow bar will be welded at the pass through points on the upright. It will extend towards the inner fenders on the clam and serve as the pivot point for the original AP slotted brackets that will be mounted to the clam. The clam will pivot at the inner fenders.

I guess I don't understand. I'll have to see the finished product.

 

[Devin]

….the prototype. The tow bar goes through the upper diagonal bar extending down from the upper firewall frame.View attachment 134683

I’m thinking that I can reverse the original mounts that would be spaced out from the inner front fender area of the front clam…extending the tow bar and using it for the hinge hanger. BTW…the way these close out pieces were slapped in and installed is definitely not up to my standards. They will be computed and reinstalled with West Systems epoxy. View attachment 134681View attachment 134680View attachment 134682

I’m thinking that I can reverse the original mounts that would be spaced out from the inner front fender area of the front clam…extending the tow bar and using it for the hinge hanger. BTW…the way these close out pieces were slapped in and installed is definitely not up to my standards. They will be computed and reinstalled with West Systems epoxy. View attachment 134681View attachment 134680View attachment 134682

The tow bar will be welded at the pass through points on the upright. It will extend towards the inner fenders on the clam and serve as the pivot point for the original AP slotted brackets that will be mounted to the clam. The clam will pivot at the inner fenders.

Joe, I would have probably gone your route of the “beaks” if my front clamshell didn’t already have a bracket to provide for a pivot point for mounting.

Looking good…keep at it.

 

[Neil]

I guess I don't understand. I'll have to see the finished product. A very easy tow method is to drill a hole in the lower part of the "parrots beak"(I think that's what you call it) and insert a carabiner through the hole. Clipping a tow line into a carabiner is easy since it has a spring-loaded gate. https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Carabiners-and-quickdraws/Am-D

 

[joe]

The original AP hung beaks won’t work because they are hidden behind the brake cooling duct area. One could make their own with a shape that still incorporates the hint slot and extends beyond the front of the clam…but this cause other problems with clam articulation.
I think I also figured out that placing the clam hinge at the level of the new tow bar (will be in the center of the grill opening), will not allow for the clam to swing up very far either bottom of the grill area hitting the ground. I’m trying to figure out if I will be able to get to e clam open far enough. I may have to fab up a hing in the original location.

 

[joe]

Trying to figure out the best way to brace the sides and bottom to make it as stiff as possible. I also plan on placing a bar at the top and bottom of the panel where the original rad mount panels were installed. This area is merely bent sheet metal. I would think the front sway bar would stress the heck out of this area.

 

[Devin]

Trying to figure out the best way to brace the sides and bottom to make it as stiff as possible. I also plan on placing a bar at the top and bottom of the panel where the original rad mount panels were installed. This area is merely bent sheet metal. I would think the front sway bar would stress the heck out of this area.View attachment 134810View attachment 134811

Joe, what gauge of sheet metal is it? Made mine out of 10 gauge/.1 inch and seems plenty strong. If yours is lighter gauge I would make the sway bar brackets as close to the corners as possible to avoid any distortion and you could even make a larger backing plate to bolt and/or tack weld on the inside to reinforce that area too.

 

[joe]

It’s 1.25” square that is 0.12 thick I believe.

 

[joe]

I wish I would have bought this chop saw years ago!
I ordered a set of OEM C5 sway bars off of eBay today….$205 shipped. I already have the end link conversion kit that Chris sent. I need to get the front sway bar in before I finish bracing the front.
The rad will mount on a strap of 1/8” steel on each side with rubber isolated bolts. I may put rubber isolators on the bottom of the rad as well for increased support.
I still need to finalize the angle of the rad and trim and weld the support straps on.