Joe, I ended up just bolting the starter to the adapter and jumped it to a spare battery to see if there were any clearance issues. Yours looks deeper than mine but I can measure if you would like.
And so it begins...the AP build.
- Thread starter jlwdvm
- Start date
I tried to take out as little as possible. I haven’t finished up the grinding yet.
Rear clam is stiff enough now that I can open and close it by myself. All 4 locating pins hit at the same time. I’m going to use a single center hood pin for the top.
The rear hinge will now be 2 pieces, after I weld in the coupler. It was impossible to get in when it was 1 piece…and it will only get worse after I finish off the wheel wells with Raptor Liner.
The rear hinge will now be 2 pieces, after I weld in the coupler. It was impossible to get in when it was 1 piece…and it will only get worse after I finish off the wheel wells with Raptor Liner.
Sure glad I paid for the roll cage option. If you get that, the spider is shipped with no inner structure and is flimsy as hell. Chris’s had an inner panel and inner a-pillars that he cut up and shipped to me. I’m going to fit the inner panels to the spider and get it roughed in before bonding the inners and the spider. Then I’ll make my own bars that will work with the new spider. I may be able to use the original front hoop.
Looks like you can make a nice little bump-out cover and use that existing bolt hole. Any other challenges or issues so far with the G97?
I have only mounted the adapter plate and starter to the trans. So far, so good. I haven't finished grinding out the starter area yet. I'm thinking that I am going to build a firewall similar to a Tornado, as the AP cars ship with aluminum fitted, but no inner structure, besides the roll bar.
I'm having a flash back to when I replaced the roof on my 69 firebird. Clamps won't be in short supply!
I'm having a flash back to when I replaced the roof on my 69 firebird. Clamps won't be in short supply!
Decided to take a brake from the rear and move to the front of the car. I think I have a plan to get the front cover back to one piece and get the depth of the snorkel set and paneled off. 1st step was getting the corners set. A final gap of 1/8" was taken into consideration when measuring for the buttons. I went with the name brand ones since I've heard nor so good things about the Amazon/Ebay variety. Of course, my Harbor Freight hole saw made the cup hole too big,so I did a press fit with some thickened epoxy.
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Moving forward. When I started to hack this thing up last winter, I was a little worried about if/how I would be able to get it back together. It’s back in one piece after first bonding the piece together with thickened epoxy. After that hardened, I ground down the excess on the underside and put 3 layers of glass. I will probably make a styrofoam and duct tape buck for each side to get the curve set and filled in.
Chris Kouba
Supporter
If you're not using epoxy, you'll want some sort of protective coating as a barrier between the resin and foam. Otherwise it will melt it and the effort will be wasted.
Aluminium tape works wonders.
It also does make the step of release agent obsolete unless you have negative curves.(Resin will not bind to the aluminium very good, which means that the release is possible without an agent)