Chassis origins

Bart Roberts

Supporter
I seem to be collecting more parts than building.... I started this journey by collecting a body, then working on fabricating a chassis, then stopped because I acquired a GTD chassis without any arms. After a few years of networking with folks, I've collected more parts. So the latest acquisition is a GTD (likely a GTD copied) body. I say this because it has the leather textured inner doors, and inside roof. The chassis is different than my GTD. This one has suspension but there are no bearing in the rear carriers/uprights. Here are my questions. Does anyone know the origins of this chassis based on design? Second, please look at the rear upright and see if anyone recognizes what bearing/hub might I take a look at to see if it fits? Note there is a snap ring in the back to hold the bearing, should be able to see in the pics. 8208328712356218664.jpg610982057652965845.jpg8208328712356218664.jpg610982057652965845.jpg1186464541157513312.jpg849996580670623283.jpg-4610072407695647268.jpg-1276793886661018216.jpg-7547882139850773046.jpg-3389362426872458901.jpg5499892442699745938.jpg
 
If someone here can't answer directly, you may be able to get a Timken bearing part number from here with a little measuring. From that, you may cross it to what car uses the same bearing and find the hub that it's usually used with.


Ford on the rear of the 2005 or so explorer used a similar press in bearing.

 

Ian Anderson

Lifetime Supporter
Hi

If you have a GTD and this new chassis

Measure distance between the rear rod pick up points behind the seats

If the new one has those pick up points further outboard making the suspension rod run more parallel to the chassis you may have a DAX

They were made around the same time as a GTD

On the bodywork have a look at the rear clip

If the lower air scoop starts about 2 inches from the foot possibly GTD if the distance is around 4 inches leans more towards the DAX
 
Last edited:

Bart Roberts

Supporter
Hi

If you have a GTD and this new chassis

Measure distance between the rear rod ick up points behind the seats

If the new one has those pick up points further outboard making the suspension rod run more parallel to the chassis you may have a DAX

They were made around the same time as a GTD

On the bodywork have a look at the rear clip

If the lower air scoop starts about 2 inches from the foot possibly GTD if the distance is around 4 inches leans more towards the DAX

Yes, I still have both and will measure. Thanks
 

Bart Roberts

Supporter
If someone here can't answer directly, you may be able to get a Timken bearing part number from here with a little measuring. From that, you may cross it to what car uses the same bearing and find the hub that it's usually used with.


Ford on the rear of the 2005 or so explorer used a similar press in bearing.


I agree, I think you are correct the it is something similar to the explorer bearing/hub but after many days of digging and several trips to my main aftermarket parts supplier, I think my time may be better spent redesigning for a new hub assembly. I'm leaning toward redoing the upright for 2015-2021 mustang IRS rear hub/bearing. That keeps it all Ford, 5x4.5 pattern, readily available for years and options for calipers and rotors as mustang will be supported for a long time likely. Plus if I want to go cheap and easy the OE Mustang caliper has parking brake function built in. If I want something more exotic, it's just a matter of fabricating a caliper bracket.
 

Bart Roberts

Supporter
Hi

If you have a GTD and this new chassis

Measure distance between the rear rod pick up points behind the seats

If the new one has those pick up points further outboard making the suspension rod run more parallel to the chassis you may have a DAX

They were made around the same time as a GTD

On the bodywork have a look at the rear clip

If the lower air scoop starts about 2 inches from the foot possibly GTD if the distance is around 4 inches leans more towards the DAX

The rear arm pick up points are actually a little more inboard than the GTD I have. hhmmm
 
I was thinking that hub would be really easy to fabricate. Only semi critical part is machining the tube that receives the bearing. Keep in mind that welding it will shrink it a little and tighten the interference fit.
 
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