Clutch master cylinder?

[Alex]

(going to assume everybody uses the same rcr pedal mount/wilwood setup here.....)

Installed the balancing bar into the brake pedal, cut the wilwood m/c brake studs, threaded them into the balancing bar. The face of the wilwood m/c sits flush against the mounting area of the pedal mount.

Repeat for the clutch side and, with the stud cut and bottomed out in the clevis (i.e., can't screw it in anymore because the beginning of the clevis is at the end of the threads on the stud) I have about 1/8'' or so of gap between the face of the wilwood m/c and the pedal mount.

If I give it gentle "force" I can get the cylinder face to mate perfectly onto the mounting area of the pedal box, but I'm worried that because it's not sitting flush by itself (i.e., I can't just screw it all the way in and have it sitting flush by itself...1/8'' or so gap until I push it into the mount) I've now got constant tension on the clutch system which will mean the clutch will be engaging to some degree all the time.........or maybe this isn't happening, I don't really know, so I figured i'd see if anybody else would describe their pedal mount install as such

 

[Alex]

Btw, since we all like pictures

stud is threaded all the way in

~1/8'' gap between m/c and it's mounting area

if i give it a slight push it sits perfectly in it, but I'm worried that slight push is going to cause it to constantly have tension on it, and thus constant clutch engagement

Normal? :huh:

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

Yes Normal....there will not be constant pressure on the clutch.

 

[Doc Kaler]

Alex,

I cut about 1/8-1/4" of stud and re-threaded. I also cut down the clevis and re-tapped. Now, the unit fits without "pre-load".

 

[Alex]

Yes Normal....there will not be constant pressure on the clutch.

Okay; good to know

Alex,

I cut about 1/8-1/4" of stud and re-threaded. I also cut down the clevis and re-tapped. Now, the unit fits without "pre-load".

That was my initial thought, but I didn't want to start chopping at the clevis for fear of making an oopsies

Fran says it's normal, so it must be ...... unless it's a new sales tactic to sell clutches every 100miles, haha =)

 

[Doc Kaler]

The only factor effected is the return spring "pre-load". The hydraulic pressures will be the same. I will actually "feel" the same pre-load since the stud is only shortened to "0" initial pre-load (or "lash") as soon as I apply clutch pressure......I hope.

 

[Jac Mac]

Fran says it's normal, so it must be ...... unless it's a new sales tactic to sell clutches every 100miles, haha =)[/QUOTE]

That 'might' be the plan... IF that 1/8" actually preloads the piston/cup & prevents it coming back past the compensating port on release you could have problems.............:lipsrsealed:

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

It doesn't Jac....but knowing Alex he will break one trying to check and then ask me to send him another....:lipsrsealed:

 

[Doc Kaler]

No place to use a torque wrench huh Alex? :thumbsup:

 

[Alex]

It doesn't Jac....but knowing Alex he will break one trying to check and then ask me to send him another....:lipsrsealed:

Nothing wrong with a little bit of experimentation :stunned:

 

[Alex]

Ahhhh, the cut-off wheel keeps calling to me to just ... experiment ... chopping a bit of the clevis off and seeing what happens.......... ahhhhh......must.....remember.....what happened....when I ignored Fran and torqued wheel nuts to 250ft-lbs....must....remember and properly follow advice given :lipsrsealed:

Okay, the urge to choppy choppy has passed .... for now ..... now I've got to go see what else I can break :stunned:

 

[Jac Mac]

Ahhhh, the cut-off wheel keeps calling to me to just ... experiment ... chopping a bit of the clevis off and seeing what happens.......... ahhhhh......must.....remember.....what happened....when I ignored Fran and torqued wheel nuts to 250ft-lbs....must....remember and properly follow advice given :lipsrsealed:

Okay, the urge to choppy choppy has passed .... for now ..... now I've got to go see what else I can break :stunned:

Glad I dont have too many customers with your talents/skills Efn.... I might feel redundant:furious:, used to have one or two, but then I used the Choppy Choppy on them

 

[Alex]

Glad I dont have too many customers with your talents/skills Efn.... I might feel redundant:furious:, used to have one or two, but then I used the Choppy Choppy on them

If nothing else it gives Fran many good stories to tell :laugh:

 

[Alex]

Are you guys using jam nuts on the threaded portion of the rods, or just threading them all the way in and leaving as such (no nuts)?

I've seen both variations, but I noticed I'm able, with the unit assembled, to spin the threaded out by hand, which makes me wonder if you need a jam nut to prevent it from vibrating loose over time? Of course if I put a jam nut on the clutch cylinder rod, it pushes it backwards a little bit, so it goes from needing ~1/8'' to seat fully against the pedal box to 1/4'' :/

 

[Cam]

I used jam nuts, best $0.36 i spent!

 

[Keith]

I cut the rod to the proper length, then rethreaded the rod to make room for a jam nut. The goal was to make all the pedals line up in a row so that one was not leaning back further than the rest. I later replaced the top bolt on the clutch master with a 5/16 stainless button head bolt with two nuts so I had an adjustable pedal stop as my clutch travel was to great and the clutch arm would lighty strike the pressure plate when the pedal was fully depressed.
Keith

 

[Howard Jones]

Fran, isn't there a maximum travel spec when used with a Porsche clutch? I believe it is 1.5 inches max piston travel. The extra 3/16 of threads effectively limits the total piston travel right at the 1.5 inch limit.

Somebody tell me if I have this correct. If not then I stand corrected.