CNC Brake Line Routing

Pictures for reference.
 

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Bill Kearley

Supporter
More info required to give you an answer on this, like what kind of car are you building, with or with out power breaks etc. You should call the supplier and ask for a drawing so you can see part number/location.
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
SLC? OK here's my guess. The long radius turns are meant to be straightened when installed on the car. My guess is they were done to facilitate packaging for transporting. The 45-degree turns are in the forward wheelhouse area along the bottom chassis tubes or in the rear wheel area along the lower chassis tubes, or both. Try and match up the 45s to the chassis rails in these two areas after you carefully straighten the big radius turns out. The longest tubes are for the rear brakes and clutch slave. Look at post #82 on my build log for some pictures.
 

Neil

Supporter
SLC? ...Try and match up the 45s to the chassis rails in these two areas after you carefully straighten the big radius turns out.

Do that slowly & carefully. You do NOT want to kink the tubing, which it will cheerfully do at the slightest provocation.
 

Scott

Lifetime Supporter
Howard's suggestions are spot on. A couple of points based on my 2016 car which might be different than yours. The brake and clutch lines that ran to the rear of the car were mounted to the 2" x 6" tube in the left side pod. All of the brake lines in the rear are mounted to the lower 2" x 2" chassis tubes. The rear brake line had a Y-block on the 2" x 2" lower tube immediately after the monocoque. The right rear brake line exits the aforementioned Y-block and traversed the 2" x 2" tube that's parallel with the fuel tank and when it reaches the right side of the car it bends back to the tail.

I won't post pictures of my setup because I tossed everything and made mine from scratch. The rear lines were OK, but the front lines didn't fit at all. In addition, the lines running to the rear had union fittings in the middle of the side pod. That's OK for a track car where it's easy to remove the body, but a nightmare to service on a street car. Hopefully your front lines fit better. I also noted that you have the Wilwood RPVs which is what I purchased to replace the crap ones.

As Neil indicated, be careful to not kink the tubes that were bent for shipping purposes. Once you get more of the bend out, you can perfectly straighten them with a tube straightener with adjustable rollers which. While they're intended to support a range of tube ID's, you should be able to load fairly straight brake line from the side (i.e., you don't need to feed from then end which would attempt to straighten all of the bend that you want). I purchased on similar to the picture below which handles 3/16" to 5/8" line (e.g. intercoolers, A/C, etc.).

1672780421141.png
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
Oh and take the big curve ones in the house and put them in the bathtub full of the hottest water you can stand and CAREFULLY use one of these of the correct diameter. Work very slowly and keep the water hot and the tubes submerged. Taking out large radius bends are all these cheepo tube benders are good for but they work ok for that. Don't try tight 90-degree turns with them. You will need a proper tubing bender for that.

 
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venius

Supporter
Long line goes from passenger rear brake l to front brake.. then a piece from front brake to front of footbox (zig zag piece looks like lightning bolt)
Then on drivers side 2 pieces go from front of footbox and extend half way....(one line routes through bottom of suspension...and the other has hook on end of line androutes in between suspension)...then from half way of car two more pieces ..one has some twist at end that's for clutch...the other extend past to driver rear brake.. Hope that helps.. Once I figured it out pieces fit pretty good...but I rerouted my lines too..
 
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