Upgrading my cooling

[Craig Martin]

First off- thanks to everyone who contributed to the thread “Electric water pump how to” What great information

I’m starting the complete restoration of a 25 year old KVA based GT-40…. (302ci with a G-50 transaxle for now).

The two 1” water lines running thru the 1- 1/2” square tubing, down the middle of the car are way too small…. Going to cut out the two square tubes and install 1-3/4” OD by 1-1/2” ID chrome moly tubes and run the water straight thru them….. The second photo shows the old and new pipe….

Going to use a remote electric water pump at the base of the engine, And all the other recommendations in the water pump thread….

Questions:
1- What type and size of weldable ends should I put on the tubing to attach the water hoses, and where to purchase?
2- Does it matter if the hot/ send and cold/return pipes are plumbed on the top or bottom? (Gotta ask!)

Any other suggestions definitely welcomed….
(I’ve tried to flip the pics to the correct orientation with no success)

Thanks!

 

[Brian Kissel]

Done

 

[Craig Martin]

Thks!

 

[Lee Patterson]

I would use stainless for the material. The ends just need to have a bead on them for the rubber hose to seal around. You will have to determine the rest of the coolant path to determine the length and what angled pipes you will need to connect it all up. No, I do not believe it matters if the hot is on top or below. Mine is on the bottom and exits to the right side of the radiator (right when sitting in the car). Both exit left in the back to connect to the motor but that also depends on where your water pump inlet is (right or left).

I would think you could buy pre-made primary tubes with a bead end on them. I know you can buy all the intermediate pipes at the correct angles.

 

[Jean-Marc]

You could also replace your mechanical water pump by an electrical one

Proform Blue Electric Water Pump for Ford 289-302 Engines | AutoZone

This electric engine water pump fits Small Block Ford engines and is made from high-quality die cast aluminum. Features a great looking blue powder coat finish. Unit has a flow rate of 35 GPM and only draws 6 amps. It includes a billet aluminum material 1.0 inch NPT to 1-3/4 inch hose fitting...

www.autozone.com

 

[Craig Martin]

Thanks….
Chrome moly was recommended as it’s performing two duties…. Transferring coolant and strength… The guy who is welding them in, welds pro stock drag cars for a living, he said this is what they use to weld the cages with… .063” I think…

I like the idea of welding a bead around the end… I’ll just have to extend them apart from each end, so the hose will fit on….

You could also replace your mechanical water pump by an electrical one

Proform Blue Electric Water Pump for Ford 289-302 Engines | AutoZone

This electric engine water pump fits Small Block Ford engines and is made from high-quality die cast aluminum. Features a great looking blue powder coat finish. Unit has a flow rate of 35 GPM and only draws 6 amps. It includes a billet aluminum material 1.0 inch NPT to 1-3/4 inch hose fitting...

www.autozone.com

i am definitely putting a remote electric water pump at the base of the engine

 

[Howard Jones]

4130 (chromoly) will rust if left full of water. Either use stainless tubing or if you must use 4130 then use a slightly larger size diameter and sleeve aluimium tubing inside. Or you run silicone thrrough the steel. Either way you have somethng you can service at a later date if you have to without cutting out the steel tubing.

Pro stock race cars are not left full of coolant between raceing weekends so the rust is not a issue, At least not much of one.

4130 Alloy Steel Round Seamless | Aircraft Spruce ®

4130 Alloy Steel Round Seamless 4130 is a chromium-molybdenum general purpose alloy steel tubing that is weldable and is capable of developing good strength. It has been for years the standard of the aircraft industry. Tensile Strength: 90,

www.aircraftspruce.com

HPS Aluminum Joiner Tube Piping heater coolant intake hose connector Bead Roll

HPS 6061 Aluminum Straight Joiner Pipe Tube bead roll 16 Gauge hose connector ideal for diy custom cold air intake kit, radiator heater coolant hose, turbo intercooler piping

hpsperformanceproducts.com

1.870" ID 4 Ply Silicone, SAEJ20 Compliant

At Flex Technologies, we test each and every one of our silicone hoses for quality and reliability. Don’t settle for less than the best. Shop with us today!

www.siliconehose.com

 

[Howard Jones]

And NO NO NO that electric pump is ment to installed in place of the OEM mechinical pump. Moving the electric pump nice and low in the car is one of the main reasons to use a electric pump in the first place. Read the above mentioned thread about electric water pump again.

 

[Craig Martin]

And NO NO NO that electric pump is ment to installed in place of the OEM mechinical pump. Moving the electric pump nice and low in the car is one of the main reasons to use an electric pump in the first place. Read the above mentioned thread about electric water pump again.

1: I may have stated it wrong…. I am going to delete the mechanical water pump and install an electrical water pump on the frame at the front / side of the engine low….

I have thought about corrosion inside the pipes…. If you’ll look at the scrap piece in the photo… it’s shiny inside.. the pipes are approx 5’ long. I’m going to use a homemade flap wheel sander to polish the inside of the tubes…. 150/220/320/400 grit etc. full sheets of sandpaper duct taped to a 6’ piece of conduit, chucked in a drill…. Works surprisingly well…. But I really like your idea of lining it with silicone or some other pipe liner…. Gotta figure out how to apply, to get complete coverage at a good mil thickness…

 

[Neil]

1: I may have stated it wrong…. I am going to delete the mechanical water pump and install an electrical water pump on the frame at the front / side of the engine low….

I have thought about corrosion inside the pipes…. If you’ll look at the scrap piece in the photo… it’s shiny inside.. the pipes are approx 5’ long. I’m going to use a homemade flap wheel sander to polish the inside of the tubes…. 150/220/320/400 grit etc. full sheets of sandpaper duct taped to a 6’ piece of conduit, chucked in a drill…. Works surprisingly well…. But I really like your idea of lining it with silicone or some other pipe liner…. Gotta figure out how to apply, to get complete coverage at a good mil thickness…

Just use thin wall stainless with a beaded end for hose clamps or stick with AN fittings.

 

[Craig Martin]

Just use thin wall stainless with a beaded end for hose clamps or stick with AN fittings.

I’m leaning toward stainless , , but I think it needs to be somewhat structural maybe a thicker wall stainless

 

[Neil]

I’m leaning toward stainless , , but I think it needs to be somewhat structural maybe a thicker wall stainless

I think you are overly concerned about this. Thin wall stainless will be fine if you use aircraft tubing clamps every few feet to keep it protected from vibration. The pressure in your cooling system will probably never exceed 25psi.

 

[Craig Martin]

I think you are overly concerned about this. Thin wall stainless will be fine if you use aircraft tubing clamps every few feet to keep it protected from vibration. The pressure in your cooling system will probably never exceed 25psi.

It’s not the water pressure I’m worried about, … I think the two original square steel tubes that are being replaced are structural ….

 

[Bart Dirkx]

I’m leaning toward stainless , , but I think it needs to be somewhat structural maybe a thicker wall stainless

The thicker the walls, the lower the flow (power of 2 as it is surface area). I did some calculations and 1mm wall thickness (0.04”) should be more than enough for stainless steel. This is what I am planning to do. I read on this forum others using 0.06” with no issues. I would do that if you want to be on the safe side.

 

[Craig Martin]

The thicker the walls, the lower the flow (power of 2 as it is surface area). I did some calculations and 1mm wall thickness (0.04”) should be more than enough for stainless steel. This is what I am planning to do. I read on this forum others using 0.06” with no issues. I would do that if you want to be on the safe side.

I agree, compared to that choked off 1” ID tube I’m replacing, either wall thickness will be a huge improvement… thks

 

[Clayton]

It’s not the water pressure I’m worried about, … I think the two original square steel tubes that are being replaced are structural ….

Replace with one length of SHS in a slightly heavier wall thickness to support the floor and cradle mount the S/S water pipes above it.
I very much doubt that would increase the beaming deflection of the chassis. The majority of the strength is in the trussed chassis side walls.

Clayton