Most folks are steering me toward the solid or roller bearing. For the exception of a race trans builder who said sealed ball.
Working on the GTs trans pics.
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Yes, but I did drive the hell out of it getting home for about 20 miles as the vibration after the burnouts and donuts was less severe at a specific rpm. I probably should have towed it, but was having too much fun in the twisted roads of the foothills of the Sierras.
Your race trans builder... does he specialise in Transaxles or conventional transmissions like Super T10, Top Loaders, etc.?
The vibration would have been due to the clutch plate being slightly off center after the needle rollers relocated themselves.
Any chance you have pics of such a tension rod installation? I've got a similar concern over my Porsche GB to Chevy LS engine installation.
Not transaxles! I know that much.
Been thinking a bit more about how to check for co-linearity of the pilot bearing and the transaxle input shaft and was wondering if the following might help. As mentioned above, there is a small amount of play between the input shaft and its surrounding thrust bearing shaft. Once you've fitted a new spigot bearing (whichever type you decide on) and checked the run-out, then if you fit the transaxle to the engine without the clutch/pressure plate it may be possible to access the input shaft through the clutch arm opening. You might be able to get a narrow feeler gauge in between the shaft and the tube to check side-to-side clearances. This could at least tell you if the shaft is centred in the tube. The attached cut-away diagram is from a Renault 30 Haynes Workshop manual.
While thinking about this, it sort of raised another question; assuming the 'play' in the shaft was deliberately provided by the factory to allow for mass-production tolerances of alignment between engine and transaxle, would an after-market thicker single piece input shaft affect this tolerance and potentially place tighter tolerances on any misalignment issues?
While thinking about this, it sort of raised another question; assuming the 'play' in the shaft was deliberately provided by the factory to allow for mass-production tolerances of alignment between engine and transaxle, would an after-market thicker single piece input shaft affect this tolerance and potentially place tighter tolerances on any misalignment issues?
I agree! might you have a picture of someone making such an adapter? I would love to machine one or SOME. i have an idea.....
New Bronze bushing did not fix the vibration! Trans is back out and drained. oil looks fine, no ugly metal parts coming out. i pulled the bell housing off and the inside looks very nice and the wear is nice and even on the big gear. i will split the case in half to check the inner shaft bearings. Is it possible that the pressure plate or clutch disk can get knocked out of balance from abuse?
Maybe before splitting the box, it might be worth checking the trueness of the input shaft. With the forces that would have been generated from the original vibrations, this could have led to a deflection to the shaft. The inner shaft bearings could also have been affected and should be checked for damage once you have the box apart.
trevor, you are correct. although it spins smoothly it is very loose. This is my first experience with the UN1 shaft/collet so i am not quite sure how much movement is normal. All i know is that there is a lot of lateral movement.
to be more specific. now that the bell housing is off and i have removed the tube. The shaft has .125 (1/8") of lateral movement in all directions with NO in and out movement. The collet and input shaft move solidly together around the main half shaft. it also appears that the pin is still in it.
Before going any further, one question I have; were you able to check the run-out of the new spigot bearing. The reason I ask, is that the next step(s) will likely entail splitting the box and just want to make sure there is no possibility that the problem lies at the flywheel end of the shaft, before diving into the gearbox.
I can measure on the bearing surface itself, the flywheel and the crank bore with the trans out. I will report back. I am suspecting that an .125 of movement in all directions is not good for the input shaft.
Yes the play sounds excessive, but thought that the extra check might be useful to ensure 'cause and effect' aren't being overlooked. My guess is that the front of the transaxle has been damaged., but if you go to the considerable time, effort and cost of repairing it, you want to make sure there is no underlying cause that will lead to a repeat further down the road.
Possible damage to the box front end to look for is bent input shaft, trashed primary shaft front bearing. Also as the vibrations forces were probably pretty high, to check around the primary shaft bearing housing for cracks.
Just a side observation, there are apparently some odd radial markings across the face of the flywheel evident in the 3 and 4th photos of this thread and what appears to be some 'blueing' of the metal. This may be just a trick of the light or an indication of very high temp that the flywheel reached. Just wondering if anyone might comment?
Possible damage to the box front end to look for is bent input shaft, trashed primary shaft front bearing. Also as the vibrations forces were probably pretty high, to check around the primary shaft bearing housing for cracks.
Just a side observation, there are apparently some odd radial markings across the face of the flywheel evident in the 3 and 4th photos of this thread and what appears to be some 'blueing' of the metal. This may be just a trick of the light or an indication of very high temp that the flywheel reached. Just wondering if anyone might comment?
