About to Order - Lessons Learned?

[Jeffrey]

Esteemed Forum Experts and Superformance GT40 Owners, I am possibly days away from putting a deposit in on a new GT40. My question is, what lessons have you learned that you wish you'd known when you were placing your order or buying your car?

I am considering Mk1, Red, Wide Body, No Stripes, Roush 427SR, RBT ZF. This will be a street car.. It may never see track time under my ownership - maybe a few warm laps here and there, but nothing serious.

I will buy from Todd Andrews, my local SPF Dealer, and am still undecided on installer.

I am a former owner of a Superformance Cobra (what a great car!), and after owning that for a few years certainly learned a few things that I would have improved the experience if I'd known those things when I bought it. Nothing major, just a few odds and ends. Hoping to cut down on the learning curve on this next one.

I've browsed a lot on this forum, so have already learned a thing or two - thank you!

Thanks in advance for your wisdom!

- Jeffrey

 

[Grady]

I have experience with two MkIIs. Both 427FEs. P2124 and P2125.
-The one change I would make with all cars is the upgrade to the gated rod shifting over the cable set up. P2125 is the only car to have had this upgrade. From what I've been told (from Hq), P2125 is best representation of a MKII in the US. It is a night and day change that makes the car so much more enjoyable. Contact Dennis Olthoff for information.
-Read all the updates and improvements that Steve C. made to P2125.
-Use a flashlight to seal the gaps and holes in the front of the car to keep water out of the cockpit.
-Add the glass rear window.
-Insulate the firewall panel well and seal around where the handbrake entry area.
-Add the plumbing for the brake duct cooling.
-I added a strip of red LEDs underneath the gauge panel coupled with the rheostat so you can see into the foot wells. Its dark at night.
-Speaking of dark, upgrade your headlights. Heavier wiring and higher wattage. You can't have enough light.
-Pay attention to sealing the AC ducts.
-Suggest the aircraft push out vents for both side windows.
-Which Red color are you planning on?
-Add the 3M clear paint chip for the nose.
-Metal skid plate on the underside of the nose. You will scape the nose from time to time.
-Make a roll around floor jack incorporating the jack points to lift the front or back of the car.
-Add a good tow ring to the front of the car usually welded onto the right side jack point. Careful not to interfere with the jacking slot.
-SAFETY STUFF. Add a halon fire suppression system with a minimum of one nozzle into the cabin and one to the base area of the carb. Mount another portable one inside of the car where you can get to it while seated.
-I like a 5 Point Camloc seat belt over the one that comes with the car. You can get out of the car faster. Egress is most important.
-Seal the backside of the front uprights to keep dirt out of the wheel bearing.
-A rear mounted camera is almost a required item.
-At some point you'll have an issue with the speedo cable. Go electric early?
-Consider an aluminum box(s) for storage. Maybe FIA luggage required boxes in the rear. Steve added a 2 quart Accusump in a false bottom of one.
-Bright LED taillights.

Well that is a start.

 

[Jack Houpe]

Gee Grady, you got it all covered.

If your close to 6 foot get the gurney bubble, I would also recommend the 3M clear bra.


It might be convenient to purchase your SPF from a dealer combo installer who has experience with SPF GT40 installs.

 

[Kirby Schrader]

If your close to 6 foot get the gurney bubble, I would also recommend the 3M clear bra.

I'm 6' 2" and I did not get the bubble. I don't like them, personally, but even more importantly, it was nowhere near where my head was.
They mount the bubble too far forward in my opinion. Makes it useless for more headroom.

Now... maybe Dan Gurney had short legs and a long torso?
:laugh:

In order to get enough legroom and headroom for myself, I made my own seats which are much thinner in the back. This allows my body to move back further than the stock seat inserts do... There's next to no padding on the bottom either...

As for the other recommendations, good stuff!

Just my two cents.
Kirby

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

We supply the glass bulkhead window kit as well as the AC seal kit and a chassis/tub seal setup. We also have an upgrade for the factory roof vent.

Order the aluminum door "eyebrows" over the standard plastic ones, painted to match and much more original.

 

[Mike]

Many excellent suggestions above.

Unless the design has changed recently, at a minimum, find brake/clutch reservoir caps that will seal and prevent fluid from leaking all over the left front side of the chassis and footwell. It is messy and will bubble the paint. I think several of us has just replaced the entire reservoirs with something more modern and eliminated the entire problem. Search the forum and you will find several thread with details and pictures.

Line the inside of the front and rear fenders with foam to prevent rocks from spider cracking the jellcoat.

Replace the stock tires with Avons.

Use anti-seize on the wheel spinners.

Fill the gaps between the rocker panels so they do not continually fill with stones. I bet there are a lot of SPF running around with 50 lbs of gravel under each fuel tank. I stuffed foam in mine but am working on a more tidy solution over the winter.

Consider tying the rear lower control arm mounting points together on the rear side. That seems like a fairly standard design to create strength and rigidity on any car that might be tracked but is missing in the SPF car. Will have a piece to show later this winter I'm hoping.

Lastly, as was alluded above, choose a skilled installer if you are not doing it yourself. I wish I would have had the time and patience to tear mine down to the tub and put it back together to my level of attention to detail. Since I didn't, I sent mine to Dennis Olthoff. He is a fantastic resource to have in your back pocket after the install and as time goes on. I have never called with a question that Dennis was not able to answer in two sentences or less. He knows these cars inside and out.

 

[Ian Anderson]

I don't own a SPF but have read about Brake fluid leaks from the reservoirs. I'd say this is a "must have" fix from the factory. Parts may be non GT40 standard ones but hell of a lot better that than no brakes because the stuff all leaked out.

And get the dealer to ensure the rear parking brake calipers are correctly attached!

Both of these complaints can be found on this forum.

Ian

 

[Larry L.]

I have experience with two MkIIs. Both 427FEs. P2124 and P2125.
-The one change I would make with all cars is the upgrade to the gated rod shifting over the cable set up. P2125 is the only car to have had this upgrade. From what I've been told (from Hq), P2125 is best representation of a MKII in the US. It is a night and day change that makes the car so much more enjoyable. Contact Dennis Olthoff for information.
-Read all the updates and improvements that Steve C. made to P2125.
-Use a flashlight to seal the gaps and holes in the front of the car to keep water out of the cockpit.
-Add the glass rear window.
-Insulate the firewall panel well and seal around where the handbrake entry area.
-Add the plumbing for the brake duct cooling.
-I added a strip of red LEDs underneath the gauge panel coupled with the rheostat so you can see into the foot wells. Its dark at night.
-Speaking of dark, upgrade your headlights. Heavier wiring and higher wattage. You can't have enough light.
-Pay attention to sealing the AC ducts.
-Suggest the aircraft push out vents for both side windows.
-Which Red color are you planning on?
-Add the 3M clear paint chip for the nose.
-Metal skid plate on the underside of the nose. You will scape the nose from time to time.
-Make a roll around floor jack incorporating the jack points to lift the front or back of the car.
-Add a good tow ring to the front of the car usually welded onto the right side jack point. Careful not to interfere with the jacking slot.
-SAFETY STUFF. Add a halon fire suppression system with a minimum of one nozzle into the cabin and one to the base area of the carb. Mount another portable one inside of the car where you can get to it while seated.
-I like a 5 Point Camloc seat belt over the one that comes with the car. You can get out of the car faster. Egress is most important.
-Seal the backside of the front uprights to keep dirt out of the wheel bearing.
-A rear mounted camera is almost a required item.
-At some point you'll have an issue with the speedo cable. Go electric early?
-Consider an aluminum box(s) for storage. Maybe FIA luggage required boxes in the rear. Steve added a 2 quart Accusump in a false bottom of one.
-Bright LED taillights.

Well that is a start.

EXCELLENT post, sir. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

[Larry L.]

I don't own a SPF but have read about Brake fluid leaks from the reservoirs. I'd say this is a "must have" fix from the factory.

I understand Dennis Olthoff offers cnc machined billet alum. units for the GT40 that'll solve that problem.

 

[Mike]

In my opinion the fluid leakage is more of a nuisance than a safety issue. They would not leak enough fluid to ever cause a loss of brakes. They just leak around the bleed hole enough to wet the chassis and bubble paint. The shortest putt is probably to just get some newer plastic caps from Willwood with an o-ring that I believe will thread on if you cut them down a little.

 

[Jeffrey]

Thank you, thank you, thank you! A few things I knew about, a few things I suspected, and a lot of things learned - THANK YOU! The replies are so valuable I will most definitely print all this out and keep it in a safe place.

Color - I would like a bright red. I think they call it SPF Red.

Gurney Bubble - I am 6'0", 34" inseam. I know it will be tight, but leaning towards no Gurney Bubble. I will be looking into what it takes to add it later if I've made a mistake. Certainly better than trying to remove it Likely I will rarely if ever be racing and/or wearing a helmet. I really like the clean/low look.

Installer - I am leaning strongly towards Dennis, but have not spoken to him yet. I will buy locally because Todd has been so helpful, and I want local dealer support.

I'm just glad no one has responded that their best advice is "don't"

- Jeffrey

 

[Mike]

Here's my advice... DO!

I'm 6'2 220lb and the fitment with the pedal assembly furthest forward, is excellent. You may feel claustrophobic the first few times in the car but that will quickly fade and be replaced with the feeling of sliding your hands into your favorite pair of cashmere gloves. I honestly think these cars are far more comfortable than the modern Ford GT.

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

Replace the stock tires with Avons.

There are no "stock" tires. The chassis come from the factory with no tires. What is fitted is dependant upon the customer wishes and the dealer. I for one will not sell a chassis with something like BFG TAs, I will not be a party to homicide. I do highly recommend the Avons. As the choice of high performance 15 inch tires has dwindled there are only a few choices and the Avons do get decent tread life on the street.

As I have posted before, this an accurate replica of a 1960's race car. A race car that was "street legal" as required by the rules, but a race car no less. They were not concerned that the gap between the tub and the outer fiberglass sill covers would collect stones on real roads. They couldn't care that the horizontal panels by the fuel fillers will fill up with gravel thrown by the front tires. They didn't worry about the air intrusion via the shift rod tunnel on the right side. But you will. All of these are issues that can be dealt with by an owner or as upgrades via a dealer. If you are abhorred that such items are present in the GT, I would postulate that perhaps you are not a "GT40 kind of guy"......Many owners revel in doing this type of "fettling"

 

[Mike]

Why don't you go ahead provide your definition of a "GT40 kind of guy" Rick...

 

[Larry L.]

Jeffery,

Just a thought/suggestion:

Before you order one, you might want to actually sit in a GT40 and shut the doorS if you haven't done so already just to 'see how it fits'. A '40 can be a bit 'claustropobic' for some (it was for me AT FIRST...but, that feeling went away quickly). Better still, go for a ride in one if you can arrange it. (If you're married and your a wife is going to spend a lot of time in the passenger seat, make sure she at least sits in one too. You darn sure don't want discover any 'issues' there 'after the fact'!)

'Best to try on a pair of shoes before you buy 'em...so to speak.

 

[Rich E.]

If your going to have someone else do the install/ prep send the car to Dennis Olthoff. I don't think you'll find anyone else with better knowledge of the GT40 stateside. His expertise is completely worth it.

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

Why don't you go ahead provide your definition of a "GT40 kind of guy" Rick...

Well Michael, for one YOU are!

I know from the conversations we had prior to your purchase. When I say "NOT a GT40 kind of guy" I am referring to the customer I talked to who complained that Porsche was unable to locate the small drip he once had from his sunroof.............imagine when he opens the door of a 40 after the first drive in the rain!

I refer to the people who have no interest in doing any of the small adjustments/modifications that give so many of the owners pleasure and the satisfaction of "doing it themselves". Nothing wrong with otherwise, but probably not the type of personality that these cars need.

 

[DaveM]

Grady covered things pretty well. A couple of center rod shifters have been done by Olthoff, but I thought he wasn't doing any more. Olthoff's modification kit for cable shifters is well worth it and does improve things. If your significant other will be riding often have them sit in the passenger seat before ordering. Some women may find that seat very narrow. I agree with no bubble especially if your not going to be wearing a helmet.
Enjoy the wild ride!

 

[Jeffrey]

Continued great advice - thank you!

When I spec'd the Wide Body, custom wide BRMs and Avons are also "included"...meaning it is recommended/required that you spend another chunk of change to get those as well...on top of the chunk of change necessary for the Wide Body. My opinion is the Wide Body is not worth what it costs, but I will likely do it anyway

Thanks for the claustrophobia warnings. Had seen those elsewhere. Sat in both MkI and MkII. Looking for a ride when the weather allows. I happen to like smaller cockpits, so I did not feel at all claustrophobic - was actually surprised how roomy it was after reading the claustrophobia stories.

Girlfriend is a slender 5'3". She sat in the car with me. Plenty of room for her. Left the wife at home. Joke!, never married, which is likely why I can dabble in GT40's

As for "GT40 kind of guy"...well I've owned a Porsche and sold it out of boredom and replaced it with a SPF Cobra. I enjoy the challenged and the quirkiness of the replicas, but I would not want to use the phrase "GT40 kind of guy" as a catch all for shoddy workmanship and sloppy assembly. I expect it to be a 60's race car replica with all the challenges that entails - I would be a bit more frustrated with outright poor assembly - but expect there may be some of that too.

- Jeffrey

 

[Tim Kay]

Jeffrey,

You certainly have a grip on the whole issue but I'll give you a hard time about the boring P-car since I street an RS and track a 996 Cup and find them most thrilling, as much so as my 40. They all give me sensory overload just different sensors epper:

Have fun with it all.