I find it has juuuuuuuuust a micron or two more interior room than the MK56 Gun Director I spent some time in during the 'Nam war! :happy:
The '40 is a touch more 'comfy' though...
About to Order - Lessons Learned?
- Thread starter LIONDOG
- Start date
I find it has juuuuuuuuust a micron or two more interior room than the MK56 Gun Director I spent some time in during the 'Nam war! :happy:
The '40 is a touch more 'comfy' though...
I find it has juuuuuuuuust a micron or two more interior room than the MK56 Gun Director I spent some time in during the 'Nam war! :happy:
The '40 is a touch more 'comfy' though...
And nobody is shooting at you......
I would suggest a long, hard look at the widebody option. It requires either non-supplied wheels or modifications to the supplied wheels. Don't plan on backing up....you won't see anything without leaning WAY out of the door. Difficult to load in a trailer. And you can't use the CR66Z Avons which are dot legal. The tires for the wider wheels are the Avon race rains and non-DOT.
Now you may be enthusiast enough for the wide tail and if so go for it but otherwise I prefer the mid-tail.
Now you may be enthusiast enough for the wide tail and if so go for it but otherwise I prefer the mid-tail.
Dave Hood
Lifetime Supporter
Sorry, I missed the first page with all your info.....
I agree with Rick about thinking again about the wide body. Lots of challenges there. If you call Dennis Olthoff he can provide you with a list of his recommended upgrades which he completes to most of the cars he sets-up. Some of those are shown on his new website.
I also recommend keeping a can of fix-a-flat with you when you drive since there's no spare tire. When the battery is installed, you'll want an easy way to set up a trickle charger if there will be periods (e.g., the Michigan winter) when you don't drive the car much.
I agree with Rick about thinking again about the wide body. Lots of challenges there. If you call Dennis Olthoff he can provide you with a list of his recommended upgrades which he completes to most of the cars he sets-up. Some of those are shown on his new website.
I also recommend keeping a can of fix-a-flat with you when you drive since there's no spare tire. When the battery is installed, you'll want an easy way to set up a trickle charger if there will be periods (e.g., the Michigan winter) when you don't drive the car much.
Thanks further! This has to be one of the most informative set of responses I've ever recieved on a topic - thank you! Hard wired Battery Tender Jr's are standard equipment on all my fun cars And Fix-O-Flat as well as a compact compressor were always in the trunk of the Cobra and will find a way to come along in the GT40. The compressor is a very small unit that should fit even in the door compartments.
Wide Body....I must admit to being slightly amused by the warnings of the impracticalities of the Wide Body. Seems that's the whole point of the car to begin with. As period-incorrect as they are, a back up camera (cameras?) will be part of the build. As will somewhat functional electronic adjustable mirrors. The beautiful chrome bullets on the Cobra were nice decoration, not much else. But that had the advantage of the windshield mirror and clear rearward visibility with a head turn.
In the end I find I never drive my fun cars that much - sort of pick and choose my times and destinations. I always have the intent to use them a lot, but never do. Since I will likely spend more time looking at the car than actually driving it....wide tail it is. But I do very much appreciate the warnings.
I am hoping to find a way to see / sit in a Wide Body before the final decision has to be made - which is not until production commit.
Anyone have comments on a Roush 427SR vs 427R? I had a 427R in my Cobra which I absolutely loved. The advise I am getting is that the SR has the better torque curve for the needs of the GT40.
- Jeffrey
And Fix-O-Flat as well as a compact compressor were always in the trunk of the Cobra and will find a way to come along in the GT40. The compressor is a very small unit that should fit even in the door compartments. Wide Body....I must admit to being slightly amused by the warnings of the impracticalities of the Wide Body
. Seems that's the whole point of the car to begin with. As period-incorrect as they are, a back up camera (cameras?) will be part of the build. As will somewhat functional electronic adjustable mirrors. The beautiful chrome bullets on the Cobra were nice decoration, not much else. But that had the advantage of the windshield mirror and clear rearward visibility with a head turn. In the end I find I never drive my fun cars that much - sort of pick and choose my times and destinations. I always have the intent to use them a lot, but never do. Since I will likely spend more time looking at the car than actually driving it....wide tail it is. But I do very much appreciate the warnings.
I am hoping to find a way to see / sit in a Wide Body before the final decision has to be made - which is not until production commit.
Anyone have comments on a Roush 427SR vs 427R? I had a 427R in my Cobra which I absolutely loved. The advise I am getting is that the SR has the better torque curve for the needs of the GT40.
- Jeffrey
Glenn B.
Lifetime Supporter
My personal experience, and several others with Roush motors, has not been positive. I would direct you to the Superformance Owner's Forum for further details. I would caution very strongly against an aluminum block engine from them. Last word on this was: they will build it if you ask, but will not warranty it. Others may have more current information.
Dennis is putting final finishing touches on my FE motor GT40 #2270 as we speak. He also built my Cobra Daytona...very highly recommended!
Best,
Glenn
Dennis is putting final finishing touches on my FE motor GT40 #2270 as we speak. He also built my Cobra Daytona...very highly recommended!
Best,
Glenn
Engines and engine builders.
I have went through multiple sagas with engine builders.
I finally got one built by Keith Craft after Mike Trusty recommending them. They supplied the Ford iron racing block (9.2" deck) and I supplied the iron Cleveland heads and IR EFI manifold, etc.
It dyno'd at 544HP and it's in my Pantera now. I like it and would recommend them. The only issue I have is a small oil leak around the pan bolts, but I know I can fix that.
I was impressed with Keith Craft actually listening to the customer as opposed to one induhvidual I dealt with who always said I didn't know what I was talking about.
And I got what I didn't want.
Just a FWIW....
Kirby
I have went through multiple sagas with engine builders.
I finally got one built by Keith Craft after Mike Trusty recommending them. They supplied the Ford iron racing block (9.2" deck) and I supplied the iron Cleveland heads and IR EFI manifold, etc.
It dyno'd at 544HP and it's in my Pantera now. I like it and would recommend them. The only issue I have is a small oil leak around the pan bolts, but I know I can fix that.
I was impressed with Keith Craft actually listening to the customer as opposed to one induhvidual I dealt with who always said I didn't know what I was talking about.
And I got what I didn't want.
Just a FWIW....
Kirby
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
Dennis sells a "thick" aluminum firewall that tips the driver's torso ~2" forward and sits you a little more vertically. This has the addtional benefits of positioning your head under the bubble, and providing a space that can be packed with thermal insulation. It's also a requirements for an FE to get reasonable water pump pulley clearance.
FWIW I think putting in a 351-based engine in is a travesty. Put a 289/302 into a Mk I or an FE into a Mk II. Yes, I'm a purist. Actually, get a Mk II. Mk Is are for girls. Roush's do not have a good reliability record. I was going to get Keith Craft engine but Dennis said (2 years ago) they had not had good experiences with them at that time, and sent me to Southern Automotive, who build me a nice iron-block FE. Also, seriously consider having Holman-Moody build you an engine. At least talk to Lee about it. If you get a Mk II, talk to Lee Holman about getting a T-44 transaxle. Also talk to Lee about doing your install. He has done a lot of work on SPF GT40s, especially ones destined for the track. He can fix the rear bearing migration problem permanently.
If you really want a rod shift, think seriously about getting a RHD car. I know, I know, but the car is *really* small. I am no longer convinced that RHD in a street GT40 in the US is unreasonable.
Be sure your installer does something to keep the parking brake from coming loose and locking your wheels and/or destroying your rear uprights.
Buy all of Rick Muck's stuff. Also talk to Alan Peterson at Pathfinder Motorsports about their various upgrades.
I had two pin-hole leaks in one gas tank. If you have garage gas fume problems keep that in mind, although there are other explanations.
Insulation around the coolant pipes running through the center tunnel will reduce cabin heat.
The 3/8-24" thread on the RHS of the pedal cluster brake balance rod will accept a typical brake balance adjuster; this will keep you from spending a lot of time with your head in the footwell; talk about claustraphobia!
You might find this thread useful: http://www.gt40s.com/forum/superformance-gt40s/33204-spf-purchase-install-decisions.html
Take it to the track; that's what they're for.
Wet sump FE's hang down an inch which I think is silly; people end up putting skid plates on like they own a Land Rover. Put in a dry sump system. They're not that expensive and have a bunch of other benefits.
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Jim Craik
Lifetime Supporter
Jeffrey,
Welcome, as you already have an SPF Cobra, you already have a good idea what to expect. As you can see there are alot of diverse opinions, and since you asked, I'll add mine.
I have a standard MKI, I just like the look a little better. Although some here have had problems with the Roush folks, my experiance has been good. Since I have always wanted, a MKI GT40, nothing more, nothing less, I went with the small block & ZF. I got the Roush 342R its a 302 based motor, Alum heads and a Holly 4brl. 450HP, 425TQ, I have well over 35,000 miles on mine and so far no problems. I find it has way more than enough power for my taste.
The advantages of the small block are, first, it was designed for a small block, it's lighter, quieter, cooler and smaller, by smaller, I mean it does not block the rear window at all. Additionally, as the motor sits low, it does not blister the rear clip paint.
The one thing I did not expect is the sound, I have since heard from others that the small block sounds a little better with the crossover exhaust. When I drive up, the sound is often the first thing people mention.............then they ask if its a Pantera
****************
Alan, MKIs are for girls?
Ickx, Redman, Hulme, Rodriguez and Hawkins.........girls?
Welcome, as you already have an SPF Cobra, you already have a good idea what to expect. As you can see there are alot of diverse opinions, and since you asked, I'll add mine.
I have a standard MKI, I just like the look a little better. Although some here have had problems with the Roush folks, my experiance has been good. Since I have always wanted, a MKI GT40, nothing more, nothing less, I went with the small block & ZF. I got the Roush 342R its a 302 based motor, Alum heads and a Holly 4brl. 450HP, 425TQ, I have well over 35,000 miles on mine and so far no problems. I find it has way more than enough power for my taste.
The advantages of the small block are, first, it was designed for a small block, it's lighter, quieter, cooler and smaller, by smaller, I mean it does not block the rear window at all. Additionally, as the motor sits low, it does not blister the rear clip paint.
The one thing I did not expect is the sound, I have since heard from others that the small block sounds a little better with the crossover exhaust. When I drive up, the sound is often the first thing people mention.............then they ask if its a Pantera
****************
Alan, MKIs are for girls?
Ickx, Redman, Hulme, Rodriguez and Hawkins.........girls?
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I can only add this....opinions are like.....everyone has one.
Seriously, build the car you want, don't fall for any of the baiting that goes on here.
Mark 1s ARE for girls, as in ATTRACTING them. Only guys like Mark 2s, so if you want to attract the guys...
Put a stroked 351 windsor in it if you want, nobody can tell....until they are choking on your dust as you pull away from them with your massive horsepower advantage. FEs are for Mark IIs, and only stand to attract more guys. But, if that's your thing...
Get the Gurney Bubble, they'e not perfectly placed, but better than nothing. You may fit without one, but you have to wear a helmet at the track, then what?
Get the widebody, the car is already impractical. So what if its a little more so.
CALL DENNIS!!!!!! If you aren't going to have him do the install, you NEED to talk to him and buy his upgrades. You really need to do this.
Finally, how could you be bored by a Porsche? You must not be driving it right.:O
Seriously, build the car you want, don't fall for any of the baiting that goes on here.
Mark 1s ARE for girls, as in ATTRACTING them. Only guys like Mark 2s, so if you want to attract the guys...
Put a stroked 351 windsor in it if you want, nobody can tell....until they are choking on your dust as you pull away from them with your massive horsepower advantage. FEs are for Mark IIs, and only stand to attract more guys. But, if that's your thing...
Get the Gurney Bubble, they'e not perfectly placed, but better than nothing. You may fit without one, but you have to wear a helmet at the track, then what?
Get the widebody, the car is already impractical. So what if its a little more so.
CALL DENNIS!!!!!! If you aren't going to have him do the install, you NEED to talk to him and buy his upgrades. You really need to do this.
Finally, how could you be bored by a Porsche? You must not be driving it right.:O
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
Just buried that in there to see who's paying attention....
FALSE...
My opinion.. take it for what it is worth
1) Call Dennis and use him to build it; there are other options (some probably pretty good) but I have not heard as much good feedback about anyone else... While local support is nice to have, once I had Dennis fix my car it has never broken beyond what my ham fisted mechanic skills could not fix
2) Get nose guard as discussed earlier
3) Replace rear window
4) Get brake and clutch canisters replaced
5) Go RHD (I wish I did)
6) Get EFI with stacks... just look nice
7) Love the red idea
8) Buy the flexible gap sealer and be prepared to seal many things in the chassis, this is not hard
9) Go single nostril or be prepared to have the dual nostril modified to actually vent air out hood
10) Replace screws in lexan windows with nylon screws; insert rivet nuts into existing holes
11) Upgrade headlights
12) Do whatever you like with the motor, I prefer the 302 block. Whatever you do, 500 HP is going to be a shocking amount. More than that will be bragging rights but I am not convinced it is faster... do what you like. I only have 540HP; I cannot imagine what 600 or 700 does besides spin the tires
13) Read about transaxles and then select the rear pinion with care. Depending on the power of the engine you might be able to get a longer rear gear. I like that I can cruise at 80 at whatever my RPM is at, it is a nice cruiser.
14) Take care with how aggressive you go on the cam shaft
15) Use wood under the jack pads and jack stands, the chassis can bend if you are not careful
16) Buy it and enjoy it... fun car
Kevin
Reading this thread is like Christmas every day for me Great information - thank you again! Interesting tip on the dual vs. single nostril - had not heard that before. Being connected to the Superformance Owners, I am aware of some of the Roush challenges, but being local has some advantages. Also appreciate the link back to the similar thread. I've searched through and read a lot on this forum but had not come across that thread before.
Mk1's are for girls - that is hilarious! Akin, I suppose to the Big Block / Small Block war that playfully rages among SPF Cobra Owners. With all it's protruding bits, MkII is absolutely the more "manly" car, but I am attracted to the graceful curves of the MkI Joking of course - if not for the existence of the other, we'd all be thrilled to have the one.
I love the connections and comments related to Pantera's. I literally grew up in the Ghia factory (1970-1976). My affinity for Cobra's, Viper's and GT40's have their roots in those days. I have yet to hear anything as sweet as a Pantera, but the GT40 seems to be a worthy contender.
- Jeffrey
Great information - thank you again! Interesting tip on the dual vs. single nostril - had not heard that before. Being connected to the Superformance Owners, I am aware of some of the Roush challenges, but being local has some advantages. Also appreciate the link back to the similar thread. I've searched through and read a lot on this forum but had not come across that thread before.Mk1's are for girls - that is hilarious! Akin, I suppose to the Big Block / Small Block war that playfully rages among SPF Cobra Owners. With all it's protruding bits, MkII is absolutely the more "manly" car, but I am attracted to the graceful curves of the MkI
Joking of course - if not for the existence of the other, we'd all be thrilled to have the one. I love the connections and comments related to Pantera's. I literally grew up in the Ghia factory (1970-1976). My affinity for Cobra's, Viper's and GT40's have their roots in those days. I have yet to hear anything as sweet as a Pantera, but the GT40 seems to be a worthy contender.
- Jeffrey
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
Being serious for just a moment, I agree completely; the Mk I is by far the more "beautiful" or "pleasing" or "graceful"; the Mk II shows every evidence of a car that was hastily modified to execute a one-time blitz at minimum effort and modification. As the song goes, "evil, wicked, mean and nasty".
Seconding Kevin's caution about wooden blocks, etc. That is 22 or 24 gauge mild steel; you can practically crease it with your thumbnail. Also the black paint on the chassis outside the cabin chips incredibly easily, so either get used to that and keep a can of satin black paint around, or be incredibly careful.
Tow hook advice is important as well; do not let anyone tow by the front cross bar, it bends easily. And the front suspension bits are hard to reach. And probably at some point you will need to tow.... Pegasus sells this handy item: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/p...//www.pegasusautoracing.com/keywordsearch.asp
Along with Grady's advice about a fire system, you also want a electrical cutoff. But then this is true of any hand-built race car, although here you are sitting between two 10 gal gas tanks.
I'm going to take counterpoint on the brake ducting: I don't see why that's needed on a street or non-actual-competition car. Rapid cooling of brake rotors is actually a bad thing since it encourages warping, and the ducts etc. just pipe a lot of grit and grime into that area. Yeah the look cool, but it's another thing you have to fuss with to work on that part of the car, and what's the benefit? Anyone here actually faded the brakes?
Dennis suggested I switch from the supplied brake pad material (BP-10) to H.
Kevin's advice on engine tune (#12 & 14) is also important and correct and not that many people will tell you that: you can always upgrade the motor later, that's a lot easier and cheaper than being pulled from the wreckage and resuscitated at the side of the road after you spin it into a tree.
Since we're way down into maintenance stuff: be careful around the rivnuts; quality control on proper setting and hole quality is not there so it's really easy to spin one. If you want to do yourself a big long-term maintenance favor, every time you remove a sheet metal screw for the first time, replace it with a machine screw and a rivnut or threaded insert. Sheet metal screws in that 22 or 24 gauge mild steel and thin fiberglass are a travesty and were a good idea only from the point of view of the guy throwing it together at the factory.
And regarding workmanship, since you brought up the point, don't expect it to be as good as an SPF Cobra, unless something has really changed since mine was built. I'll stop there since certain people here get a little apoplectic when I deliver that message.
Have your headers ceramic coated; watch out for SPF's price for that. You should be able to have it done locally for <=$500. Heat management in back is an issue (more with an FE of course) so anything that reduces heat storage is good.
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Why would an American driver want to do this? It would be a very confusing thing I can imagine both for you and those drivers around you doing a double take and possibly distracting them enough to run into something.
Is there something about the make of this version that just isn't set up right for LHD maybe?
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
- The center shift is cable operated and it feels like it. It's somewhat better than a VW Bug.
- It's a skinny car and American roads are wide.
- Even so, a forward facing camera at the lower left corner of the windshield gives you the ability to look ahead. If you are clever like Bill Musarra you conceal it into your LHS wing mirror.
- The other drivers are busy texting or taking your picture; your being on the wrong side of the car isn't going to change their level of distraction much.
- As Rick Muck points out in another thread, when you make a pass you aren't out there very long.
- A lot of what you pay for in an SPF is the fact that it's an extremely accurate replica of the original, so to pick the driver up and drop him into the opposite side of the car rather grossly contradicts that premise.
- It discourages people from asking you for a ride.
- You can play "Chinese Fire Drill" when you're alone at a toll booth.
- Other than that, nothing. :laugh:
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Surely this can be worked out. This isn't exactly a cheap replica by any means. If it's really that bad, I think SPF needs to rethink the mechanism. At least get the word out to unsuspecting buyers how bad it is.
This isn't a reason for one but a way to help alleviate some of the problem caused by going this route. Personally, I cringe at the thought of having to do something like that. Not exactly the safest way to drive IMHO.
Good point.
Yes, that's true and the one reason I could see wanting it more than anything else. Still, for safety, I'd really think long and hard about a RHD unless the car was just meant for show and wouldn't see the road much. If that is the intent though, then I'd be all for it too I guess.
