Many of you might have already seen the excellent acticle by Dean Lampe on bumpsteer adjustment in the current Kit Car Magazine. Obviously, a lot of thought and precision engineering went into the testing, adjustment, and final set up on Dean's RCR40 with regard to bump steer. Ultimately, bump steer was adjusted to optimal (for mostly track settings) by adjusting the angle of the steering rod relative to the wishbones by moving the outboard end up and down on an adjustable post fitted to the steering arm attached to the hub (there are great pics in the mag which make my clumsy description here understandable). The outboard end looks to have been shimmed up by about 3/4 inch or so for the final setting.
A question came to mind after reading the article - why not shim/adjust the whole rack rather than the outboard end of the steering rod? Doing so advoids the torsional loads and any flexing that may occur related to the extensive shimming (of the peg) on the steering arm.
Whenever I've messed with the ride height of my cars for track purposes I've always adjusted for bump steer by moving the rack - either shimming or machining off material off the rack mounts, or the rack itself. Maybe my approach has been kind of hack in so doing but I've always had good results. Appreciate any comments/thoughts.
A question came to mind after reading the article - why not shim/adjust the whole rack rather than the outboard end of the steering rod? Doing so advoids the torsional loads and any flexing that may occur related to the extensive shimming (of the peg) on the steering arm.
Whenever I've messed with the ride height of my cars for track purposes I've always adjusted for bump steer by moving the rack - either shimming or machining off material off the rack mounts, or the rack itself. Maybe my approach has been kind of hack in so doing but I've always had good results. Appreciate any comments/thoughts.