Help for those RF40 owners at the build stage

[Mark Worthington]

My car (Chassis #36) has the center-mounted brake light. I thought all RFs had this feature.

I am still in my build and would be happy to assist anyone with their build in any way I can.

 

[Peter Olliviere]

Oliver,
This shot was taken at carliel in 04, it's not completely clear but I don't think one is there.

 

[Peter Olliviere]

My Bad, upon looking at the blown up picture, yes the light is there.
Peter

 

[John B]

Thanks Much pete!

One less thing to do!!
oliver

 

[DMatt]

[ QUOTE ]
The mounts, as I recall, are for a 67 Mustang, which is probably the same for many Mustangs in that era. I didn't have motor mounts and bought some at Autozone, fit like a champ. Look like the ones in the picture above. Just get some for a 67-68 302 and see if they work, I think they do. If not go for another year, but I bet they are all the same. Dan, I can send you mine - doesn't look like I'll be needing them!

Ron

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks for the offer Ron. I stopped at NAPA on the way home and picked them up. I asked for mounts for a 68 Mustang and they look like the ones Dan W posted. Thanks Dan. They look like they will fit fine.

 

[40 Bud]

Fran Kress (owns origial 1054) sells all of the plastic coverings - windows and lights - just tell him that they are for a replica and he can have them made oversize so they can be trimmed to fit. Fran is in Pittsburgh 412 441 4275

 

[Dan W]

Dan M glad that worked out, mine came with the kit .Sounds like we have a good thing going to help out each other to get these RFs done. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

I too took many pictures, I'll try and help wherever I can. Certainly not an expert, so make sure your expectations aren't too high.

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

Dan,

give me a call...586-557-6460

The other Fran ....Hall that is!!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banana.gif

 

[Ron McCall]

Anyone have pictures of the Gt in the background with the "52" on the door?


Thanks,

 

[Chris Simpson]

Hi all RF builders.

A quick question when assembling the bearings etc, for the front stub axle. After the bearings are installed the manual says "the tabbed washer and lock nut can now be put in place and torqued" (ref page 1 - 42). My question is what is the correct torque?

Many thanks.

Chris

 

I tightened the nut to 20 ft lbs while rotating the wheel. Then back off about a half turn, then re-tighten to 20 in lbs.

 

[Bill Hara]

For what it's worth, This section of the forum is for us RF owners that have questions and anyone else on the forum that may be able to help with our particular needs. With that in mind, there are some great questions and answers being provided in this thread that will be hard to dig out by searching later on. Consider perhaps starting a new post when asking your questions as it will help other RF buildiers/owners in the future. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/soapbox.gif

Sorry, that was just my /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/twocents.gif

Bill

 

[Chris Simpson]

Many thanks Pat, I will try that.

Chris

 

[ali grey]

HI GUYS ,THAT 3RD LIGHT IS A HELLA 2334-12 LED,I GOT ONE AT OUR LOCAL AFTER MARKET SHOP.

 

[Dan W]

Chris, that has been a question asked many times before, front bearing nut tourqe. The manual does not state it as you have said. I have asked Hersh, and RF on seperate occasions and the answer is , They dont know. LOL. I am throwing away the nuts they provided and getting castlated nuts for the spindles(just because i dont like that style of banging in a part of the nut to hold it in place). The spindles have cotter key holes. I am going to torque the nuts to 40 ft lbs while spinning the rotor , then back off to the next slot and pin them , just like on a chevy, lol. Anyone tell me why this would be wrong. Thanks , Dan

 

[Jac Mac]

Hi Dan,
Not much wrong with your plan except go easy on that 40ft lb.If you snug the new brgs up to tight to seat them you risk damage to the rollers or races. A trick we use when using wide tyres with these hubs and or racing with high cornering loads is to make up a solid spacer to fit between two inner races on the spindle. This is machined to give a small amount of free play or end float to suit your hub/brake type and the spindle nut can now be torqued up to 40ftlbs and split pinned.The amount of end play is something to decide on with the intended use of your car in mind.Lots of brake heat for example will tend to reduce the end float and cause premature brg wear or damage.
Cheers Jack.

 

[ChrisL]

[ QUOTE ]
For what it's worth, This section of the forum is for us RF owners that have questions and anyone else on the forum that may be able to help with our particular needs. With that in mind, there are some great questions and answers being provided in this thread that will be hard to dig out by searching later on. Consider perhaps starting a new post when asking your questions as it will help other RF buildiers/owners in the future. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/soapbox.gif

Sorry, that was just my /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/twocents.gif

Bill

[/ QUOTE ]

Good point Bill. This post was a reminder that there is still a wealth of information out there.

Also another point that I was making in my original post (which I didn't really make very clear) was that people could also make themselves available outside this forum. I am also a member of a car club that caters for another model that is no longer being manufactured (Triumph). We have a very good system there whereby volunteers make themselves known to the other club members as marque representatives. These representatives are a point of contact for other members who feel they need quick advice in an area that is specific to their model and is best solved with a quick dialogue over the phone or maybe by email. It works very well.

This system is not meant to replace the enormous benefits of a forum but it is an alternative to a forum dialogue that can be long and drawn out and has no guarantees of a reply.

PS Although I'm not posting my phone number on this forum, my email is there and so is my location, so people should feel free to make initial contact via email.

 

[Chris Simpson]

Thanks Dan. Your idea for replacing the supplied nut with a proper castellated one that is pinned is a good idea. I never did like the RF method of banging the nut - also if one ever had to take it off again it would probably damage the thread on the stub axle.

I have now asked several people about getting the nut to the right torque. They all say tighten the nut right up and then back it off a specific amount. The only trouble is that the initial torque varies as does the amount to back it off! Is it critical anyway as long as the bearings are initially tightened right up (with not too much torque, i.e. the hub can still be turned) and then backed off say one flat of the nut?

Chris

 

[Dan W]

Chris, I have always done it that way on my other cars.(I have maintained my own cars for almost 30 years)The key is to spin the rotor while pulling it snug (you will feel it seat)then back off to the next flat to line up the cotter. That must always get you in the ball park.I never had a front bearing go out and with some cars over 200,000 miles on the original bearings.