Interesting! Indy as well as F1 are too regulated for my taste. If they were to have an open reglement, I would actually watch it, but all their cars are basically exactly the same. I watched F1 when I was younger, but got bored very quicklly!
Least Expensive Way to Make 1000 HP
- Thread starter Brisc
- Start date
Interesting! Indy as well as F1 are too regulated for my taste. If they were to have an open reglement, I would actually watch it, but all their cars are basically exactly the same. I watched F1 when I was younger, but got bored very quicklly!
Mike
Lifetime Supporter
This thread appears to be a well planned fishing exercise to afford the OP an opportunity to put to use a recent high school intro to physics chapter. I personally would go for a minimum of 3000hp. Plenty of 1000hp cars out there already. If you're going big then go real big! What high power cars have you owned in the past? Just curious...
Agreed, go for 3000hp using one of these: Nelson Racing Engines - Extreme Horsepower Twin Turbo Engines, Supercharged Engines, LSX Engines
Cause the chassis and brakes are clearly designed to handle it.......
Wasn't there a 1200hp MkII Superformance for sale with a banana-shaped chassis that was a fright to drive?
Cause the chassis and brakes are clearly designed to handle it.......
Wasn't there a 1200hp MkII Superformance for sale with a banana-shaped chassis that was a fright to drive?
Howard Jones
Supporter
Back to reality....................
I really don't want to be a smart-ass or offend anyone here but: it's very obvious that you can't contribute to this thread - please, do us a favor and stop making half-smart comments here. Same goes for Steve, Ian K and everyone else who is simply unable to contribute!
Steve that Nelson Racing Engine post doesn't fit in here at all, the topic of this thread contains "least expensive", I'm sorry but you must have missed this. I'm happy to remind you. So, unless you've got a motor that divided by its cost is better than the option I put forward, please do not post.
We want to lay down the least expensive way to get 1000 hp into a GT40. I would like to make a list of possible gearboxes/transaxles next.
With respect to nitrous injection, I've looked at a possible setup from WizardsofNOS from the UK - these are very good kits, but they are not that much cheaper as compared to a radial supercharger...
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Here a short summary of available options.
I've looked up the Toyota 1uz gearbox, but that's not a transaxle - I don't see how this could fit into a GT40.
Two parameters that are indicative of the torque that can be transferred are the shaft distance and the gear width. Both parameters are linear, but higher gear widths only make sense if the housing is stiff enough, In other words, the best way to make a transmission to transfer more torque is to increase the shaft center distance.
Anyway, can anyone give some info with respect to the question tags?
I've looked up the Toyota 1uz gearbox, but that's not a transaxle - I don't see how this could fit into a GT40.
Two parameters that are indicative of the torque that can be transferred are the shaft distance and the gear width. Both parameters are linear, but higher gear widths only make sense if the housing is stiff enough, In other words, the best way to make a transmission to transfer more torque is to increase the shaft center distance.
Anyway, can anyone give some info with respect to the question tags?
Mike
Lifetime Supporter
I'm changing my recommendation... go straight for a KB 10,000 HP nitro engine! You will ask but how is that cheap? I will explain. Clearly, you are a HP junkie. 1000hp will be nice but soon it will grow boring. As you said, you believe you should be able to light up the tires in any gear at 2/3s throttle. 1000hp will not do that. The only car I've ever seen that could smoke tires at 200mph is a nitro car. So, you will soon discover 1000hp is not enough. You'll then spend money building a 2000hp engine and then a 3000hp engine and then a 4000hp engine in search of tire smoking power in any gear at 2/3s throttle. That approach will get expensive. Just bite the bullet and go straight for 10,000 HP. Do you have a GT40 to put this monster engine in?
I'm sure you've noticed some irony in my 2/3 throttle smoking tires comment.
Anyway, if you want to contribute can you fill out some of the question tags in the transaxle matrix?
Jeff Young
GT40s Supporter
Forced induction, but the only motor I've seen regularly make 1000 hp with some reliability on the street was the turbo Supra motor. Notorious for beefy bottom end stuff.
The drag racers who favored the old Mopar 426 could get 800 or so hp N/A without too crazy on the compression/cam or exotic valvetrain materials and rods. I'm sure 1000 was possible but then you start spending big money in other places to make it last.
The drag racers who favored the old Mopar 426 could get 800 or so hp N/A without too crazy on the compression/cam or exotic valvetrain materials and rods. I'm sure 1000 was possible but then you start spending big money in other places to make it last.
Mike
Lifetime Supporter
Irony? What irony? I think you mean sarcasm. Why not make your own transaxle? 5.4 modular engines found in the FGT make 1000hp all day long with TTs.
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Brisc,
I think you're finding others are making fun of the absurdity of putting 1000hp in a car that was designed to handle 380hp. It's an interesting exercise but ultimately you're creating a car that won't be driveable. Witness the first hand accounting of the 1200hp Superformance (which was subsequently wrecked). Cheap 100hp is easy. Put a Kenne-Bell supercharger on any version of a Mod V8 with the short-block prepped by a reliable company like DSS. You can come in at under 15k without the engine management software and including the supercharger. Will it be reliable? Pretty good. But what are you doing with it? Is it just for bragging rights (absurd comment above)? Are you endurance racing? Drag racing?
1000hp cheap is easy. Reliable and appropriate for the chassis and the application is another story....
I think you're finding others are making fun of the absurdity of putting 1000hp in a car that was designed to handle 380hp. It's an interesting exercise but ultimately you're creating a car that won't be driveable. Witness the first hand accounting of the 1200hp Superformance (which was subsequently wrecked). Cheap 100hp is easy. Put a Kenne-Bell supercharger on any version of a Mod V8 with the short-block prepped by a reliable company like DSS. You can come in at under 15k without the engine management software and including the supercharger. Will it be reliable? Pretty good. But what are you doing with it? Is it just for bragging rights (absurd comment above)? Are you endurance racing? Drag racing?
1000hp cheap is easy. Reliable and appropriate for the chassis and the application is another story....
To be honest 1000hp engine and trans is going to cost you a very large sum of money. Post # 8.
Brisc are you going to flat ignore this advise?
To get some perspective, 497 hp ( give or take a few )was enough to win L.M in 1967. Now you want twice as much!!
I can't stop myself thinking that you might be on a very elusive quest.
Z.C.
Brisc are you going to flat ignore this advise?
To get some perspective, 497 hp ( give or take a few )was enough to win L.M in 1967. Now you want twice as much!!
I can't stop myself thinking that you might be on a very elusive quest.
Z.C.
I think the problem is that the 1000hp goal reeks of number chasing.
Building something to suit a goal like a flying mile or similar makes more sense to many of us, and may well be what is being looked at here.
I have around 500bhp in mine at the moment and it really doesn't seem enough to me at times, but for most circumstances it is fine.
I don't see 1000bhp as out of the question, if you don't mind paying for the tyres you'll waste. Without a purpose apart from dyno jockey bragging rights I don't see the point though, especially because of compromises that will be necessary in other areas.
I have another car designed for 200bhp that is doing just fine with 600 so 380 to 1000 doesn't seem so bad.
I hope it's not just another kid with a number fixation, some questionable "facts" and points of reference cause me to wonder but it is possible that the true purpose has been masked here - I hope so.
Whatever the case, good luck to you, but don't be quick to dismiss advice just because you don't like it. Stay safe and make sure you really understand the problem and the risks.
A discussion of what the car is going to be for might be helpful.
Tim.
Building something to suit a goal like a flying mile or similar makes more sense to many of us, and may well be what is being looked at here.
I have around 500bhp in mine at the moment and it really doesn't seem enough to me at times, but for most circumstances it is fine.
I don't see 1000bhp as out of the question, if you don't mind paying for the tyres you'll waste. Without a purpose apart from dyno jockey bragging rights I don't see the point though, especially because of compromises that will be necessary in other areas.
I have another car designed for 200bhp that is doing just fine with 600 so 380 to 1000 doesn't seem so bad.
I hope it's not just another kid with a number fixation, some questionable "facts" and points of reference cause me to wonder but it is possible that the true purpose has been masked here - I hope so.
Whatever the case, good luck to you, but don't be quick to dismiss advice just because you don't like it. Stay safe and make sure you really understand the problem and the risks.
A discussion of what the car is going to be for might be helpful.
Tim.
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Dont normally post on hypothetical stuff like this, BUT.... the last ex nascar motor I played with several years ago had just on 800HP, that was flat tappet-yates heads etc & 355 cu in, until recently you could buy time-ex versions of these for ~15k USD, now with a bit of dedicated dyno work, roller cam, stroke increase from the 3.25" to allow~400 cu in along with more carb area it should be able to get close to that 4 digit hp figure and last in similar fashion to the Nascar engine it would be derived from, eg around 2.5 hrs with most of that spent @ widethrottle openings, now for the transaxle, the Griffin components should hold up, BUT since all ratios in that are now indirect I am not sure on long term full power usage thru the gear chosen, similar thoughts apply to my own transaxle, but with it the power flow is straight along the mainshaft, however the QC type gears create a similar issue to that mentioned in the Griffin or for that matter virtually every other transaxle made, Griffins twin countershaft version would double the tooth contact area & should be the answer for anyone crazy enough to try this.
Mike Pass
Supporter
You could always just contact John Sleath and talk to someone who actually does this insane stuff. He is pretty handy at big power chevvy engines, usually with a couple of big turbos. He did an Ultima with huge power recently but has detuned it as he thought it was dangerous with 1,000hp. It's now for sale with a "sensible" 535hp.
John Sleath Race Cars - Rolling Road
He is famous for his 2,000+hp Audi 80 road legal drag car : 7.68sec at 192.99mph
John-sleath.com audi page
A really good guy to deal with and very down to earth and knows what he is doing. He has run a few of the northern GT40s on his rolling road and does a great job at very sensible prices.
Cheers
Mike
John Sleath Race Cars - Rolling Road
He is famous for his 2,000+hp Audi 80 road legal drag car : 7.68sec at 192.99mph
John-sleath.com audi page
A really good guy to deal with and very down to earth and knows what he is doing. He has run a few of the northern GT40s on his rolling road and does a great job at very sensible prices.
Cheers
Mike
Less expensive and 1,000 hp is a an oxymoron thought isn't it?
Figure $16,000 USD for a 5.4 FORD, then go for a larger supercharger, stronger transaxle, and a MKII to put the thing in. Not cheap. I've a 5.4 SC in a SuperSnake with 750 hp and can brake the rear wheels in 1,2, an 3rd. Why I would want to do that is beyond me. The real goal is how do I make great amounts of torque? Every car or Supercar starts a 0 MPH. How can you launch the car without spinning the tires and sitting there making smoke?
P2125 is 482ci making 600 hp and 610 pounds of torque wo a supercharger. Turbos kick in the power late as the power-band develops. SCs tend to be there from the start and so is the torque. Since most of us drive these cars at below 90 mph, the high torque number is desired, but with good control to keep the light weight car going in a straight line. Oh, how good is your brake system?
Figure $16,000 USD for a 5.4 FORD, then go for a larger supercharger, stronger transaxle, and a MKII to put the thing in. Not cheap. I've a 5.4 SC in a SuperSnake with 750 hp and can brake the rear wheels in 1,2, an 3rd. Why I would want to do that is beyond me. The real goal is how do I make great amounts of torque? Every car or Supercar starts a 0 MPH. How can you launch the car without spinning the tires and sitting there making smoke?
P2125 is 482ci making 600 hp and 610 pounds of torque wo a supercharger. Turbos kick in the power late as the power-band develops. SCs tend to be there from the start and so is the torque. Since most of us drive these cars at below 90 mph, the high torque number is desired, but with good control to keep the light weight car going in a straight line. Oh, how good is your brake system?
Smoke the tires at 2/3 throttle in any gear? Simple - skinny tires, job done.
Brisc, sorry but pay attention to your own questions please, you asked for ideas on the cheapest way to produce roughly 1000hp,
The cheapest Engine that is known to have a stock Bottom-end capable of handeling this power is a toyota first generation toyota 1uzfe Engine.
Never has anyone brought the stock ls400 transmission of This Engine to the table. It's a horribel pièce of junk. And not a transaxle.....
Also if practicaly your math lesson would actualy work, we'd be living in a wonderfull world.
But back to topic, why do you degrade all people trying to add to you persuit of 1000horses and tell them to shut up. Why the questionnaire in the first place, you seem to have your awnsers allready.
Grtz thomas,
Ps did i allready mention the 1uz is actualy a good idea:lipsrsealed:. Good luck on the transmission maybe Wanni has one of his lying around for a good price.
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@Brisc: This man will tell you what real hp for application costs. He builds proper anything from pro-stock to powerboat engines and ships reliably to SA .
High Performance NHRA Drag Racing Engines Builder Steve Schmidt
My CAV GT runs a baby 408 cuin 565hp/560ftlbs from his shop. With a RBT 5spd and original LeMans ratios it remains one freaky drive only to be FULLY exploited by Supervan or HennieG which places it in Porshe GT3 territory as can be driven by a FAIRLY competent driver at similar pace.
Pirelli Pzeros 335 do not smoke, they dont even howl or leave black lines, they break at the slightest provocation in 1st, also 2nd, and through turns its hairy and will cause a write-off real quick. Far as street rubber goes it doesnt come much better or more expensive and they dont last very long.
Gt40s are very enjoyable old school rides, cool, sexy, turn more heads then 430s, instantaneously rapala girls for the jump-seat, yet you get sick of the crowds and attention within one week of ownership. There is no privacy with cellphone cams and apps that can tell your speed to onlookers.
They are also antiquated, aerodynamically volatile at speeds above 170mph etc, etc.
You want to go real fast? Get one of them ex Schmidt racecars as Grant v Schalkwyk drove, and come to the real deal at SpeedweekSA events Upington or Hakskeenpan.
High Performance NHRA Drag Racing Engines Builder Steve Schmidt
My CAV GT runs a baby 408 cuin 565hp/560ftlbs from his shop. With a RBT 5spd and original LeMans ratios it remains one freaky drive only to be FULLY exploited by Supervan or HennieG which places it in Porshe GT3 territory as can be driven by a FAIRLY competent driver at similar pace.
Pirelli Pzeros 335 do not smoke, they dont even howl or leave black lines, they break at the slightest provocation in 1st, also 2nd, and through turns its hairy and will cause a write-off real quick. Far as street rubber goes it doesnt come much better or more expensive and they dont last very long.
Gt40s are very enjoyable old school rides, cool, sexy, turn more heads then 430s, instantaneously rapala girls for the jump-seat, yet you get sick of the crowds and attention within one week of ownership. There is no privacy with cellphone cams and apps that can tell your speed to onlookers.
They are also antiquated, aerodynamically volatile at speeds above 170mph etc, etc.
You want to go real fast? Get one of them ex Schmidt racecars as Grant v Schalkwyk drove, and come to the real deal at SpeedweekSA events Upington or Hakskeenpan.
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