McCopy mk 5
- Thread starter russell keach
- Start date
I have a confession to make;
Got carried away with `bling` some months ago and these arrived today. They will look good sitting on top...went this way because I did away with the factory stuff and computer so thought `what the heck` couple of more weeks work and they were done.
They will have to sit in their box for some months while I carry on with the rest.
Today, all my calcs for the rear uprights were put to test when I pressed the new bearings in followed by the drive axels, all fitted like a dream..even the brake rotor hat cleared just nicely.
Cheerz
Got carried away with `bling` some months ago and these arrived today. They will look good sitting on top...went this way because I did away with the factory stuff and computer so thought `what the heck` couple of more weeks work and they were done.
They will have to sit in their box for some months while I carry on with the rest.
Today, all my calcs for the rear uprights were put to test when I pressed the new bearings in followed by the drive axels, all fitted like a dream..even the brake rotor hat cleared just nicely.
Cheerz
Attachments
Hi Russell
They look nice but its an unfortunate fact that that is the cheap bit. Its the computer and pump and injectors that cost the real money. That said a mate of mine put a Lexus V8 in his Land Cruiser and used a ECU that he got out of South Africa. Its the size of a cigarette packet, its self learning and was about $800NZ I can find out more info and a contact if you are interested. I have another mate who is using a "Megasquirt" on a Rover V8 but its proving to be a bit of mission.
Cheers Leon
They look nice but its an unfortunate fact that that is the cheap bit. Its the computer and pump and injectors that cost the real money. That said a mate of mine put a Lexus V8 in his Land Cruiser and used a ECU that he got out of South Africa. Its the size of a cigarette packet, its self learning and was about $800NZ I can find out more info and a contact if you are interested. I have another mate who is using a "Megasquirt" on a Rover V8 but its proving to be a bit of mission.
Cheers Leon
Hi Russell,
I'm controlling a Hilborn 2 7/16 8 stack EFI set-up on the 440 Chev in the McLaren M1 replica using a Link G4. The main tuning challenge for me was related to how much throttle area you are managing and how touchy that is down low (i.e. idle control and stability during warm-up, idle speed when hot), extensive use of wide-band o2 datalogging while racing to dial in the WOT and near-WOT fuel table, and tuning acceleration enrichment to avoid lean spikes on fast transitions to WOT. The upside is that the IR design means the engine is a super docile and friendly torque monster basically from idle - even with 255 degrees of cam timing at 50 and a 109 lobe sep. With that set-up you could stick a healthy cam in the Toyota and not suffer much/any deterioration in drivability down low.
Looks good! Cheers, Andrew
I'm controlling a Hilborn 2 7/16 8 stack EFI set-up on the 440 Chev in the McLaren M1 replica using a Link G4. The main tuning challenge for me was related to how much throttle area you are managing and how touchy that is down low (i.e. idle control and stability during warm-up, idle speed when hot), extensive use of wide-band o2 datalogging while racing to dial in the WOT and near-WOT fuel table, and tuning acceleration enrichment to avoid lean spikes on fast transitions to WOT. The upside is that the IR design means the engine is a super docile and friendly torque monster basically from idle - even with 255 degrees of cam timing at 50 and a 109 lobe sep. With that set-up you could stick a healthy cam in the Toyota and not suffer much/any deterioration in drivability down low.
Looks good! Cheers, Andrew
Andrew
I have a large learning curve ahead, about all I really understood from your email was Chev and Hilborn, but many thanks for the help as it all slowly soaks in.
Leon
On the contrary, to do a reasonable Rover with around 240hp costs anywhere from $5 to $7000.00.
Rover 3.5 Base motor to achieve 240 HP..............................$500.00
Rings Bearings hone and short block strip clean assemble.......$3000.00
Gasket set, oil pump,........................................................$500.00
New camshaft..................................................................$400.00
Second hand carbs (4).......................................................$1500.00
inlet manifold...................................................................$750.00
Port and Polish..................................................................$500.00
Electronic distributor...........................................................$250.00
So $6000.00 is not hard to spend although some work you can do yourself to help lower the costs.
Toyota 1uz 280HP
Base motor 4 ltr.........................................................$2000.00
Throttle bodies...........................................................$1400.00
Microtec computer.......................................................$1200.00
Some extra bits..........................................................$500.00
Some plugs ?..............................................................$500.00
Some wiring help.........................................................$500.00
So the price is actually cheaper to run a 1uz as standard we have over 280 HP and with the computer and throttle bodies, it will not be hard to see 290 to 300HP with a bullet proof bottom end and modern technology that I can get `todays` techie`s to understand.
So once I get my head around the WOT (ever) and the IR and the o2 I will not even need new cams as this is meant for the road.
Regards
Russell
I have a large learning curve ahead, about all I really understood from your email was Chev and Hilborn, but many thanks for the help as it all slowly soaks in.
Leon
On the contrary, to do a reasonable Rover with around 240hp costs anywhere from $5 to $7000.00.
Rover 3.5 Base motor to achieve 240 HP..............................$500.00
Rings Bearings hone and short block strip clean assemble.......$3000.00
Gasket set, oil pump,........................................................$500.00
New camshaft..................................................................$400.00
Second hand carbs (4).......................................................$1500.00
inlet manifold...................................................................$750.00
Port and Polish..................................................................$500.00
Electronic distributor...........................................................$250.00
So $6000.00 is not hard to spend although some work you can do yourself to help lower the costs.
Toyota 1uz 280HP
Base motor 4 ltr.........................................................$2000.00
Throttle bodies...........................................................$1400.00
Microtec computer.......................................................$1200.00
Some extra bits..........................................................$500.00
Some plugs ?..............................................................$500.00
Some wiring help.........................................................$500.00
So the price is actually cheaper to run a 1uz as standard we have over 280 HP and with the computer and throttle bodies, it will not be hard to see 290 to 300HP with a bullet proof bottom end and modern technology that I can get `todays` techie`s to understand.
So once I get my head around the WOT (ever) and the IR and the o2 I will not even need new cams as this is meant for the road.
Regards
Russell
Hi Russ, mate instead of the Toyota lump you should have grabbed an LS1,same price, much lighter, stock with just a mild cam and throttle bodies 400 RWHP, and the factory computer is all you need, what more can I say.
WOT = wide open throttle, I R = independent runner, ie throttle bodies, o2 sensor I wouldn't bother with.
cheers John
WOT = wide open throttle, I R = independent runner, ie throttle bodies, o2 sensor I wouldn't bother with.
cheers John
Terry Oxandale
Skinny Man
You can do the LSx with ITBs using the OEM GM Computer?
Mike
Sadly prices down under are not quite the same, a Rover gasket set can cost almost $300.00, 4 second hand carbs are just not there and an LS1 starts at $3000.00 plus starter, alternator and comp....if you can find one suitable. There is one on trade me today converted to a Holley and they want $6000.00 plus.
They weight of a 1uz is not that much more than a Rover and the throttle bodies are all about the look and sound so all in all I am still happy with my choice, that Toyota plenum just would not do it.
ps a new IDA Webber is over $1000.00 new.
Cheers
Sadly prices down under are not quite the same, a Rover gasket set can cost almost $300.00, 4 second hand carbs are just not there and an LS1 starts at $3000.00 plus starter, alternator and comp....if you can find one suitable. There is one on trade me today converted to a Holley and they want $6000.00 plus.
They weight of a 1uz is not that much more than a Rover and the throttle bodies are all about the look and sound so all in all I am still happy with my choice, that Toyota plenum just would not do it.
ps a new IDA Webber is over $1000.00 new.
Cheers
Rus LS1's are a dime a dozen over here, a complete engine with loom and computer $1000 -2000 depending on ks. 8 stack 52mm ITB set up $1500
Terry the Holden Computer for the LS powered cars down here is fully programmable, so I found out after I binned the first one and bought a Haltech, it took my dyno guy about a min to change my OEM computer to run the ITB's.
cheers John
Terry the Holden Computer for the LS powered cars down here is fully programmable, so I found out after I binned the first one and bought a Haltech, it took my dyno guy about a min to change my OEM computer to run the ITB's.
cheers John
John
Yes I have seen them and looked in envy at your choices. Freight would be a killer to NZ.
I have been setting up the rear suspension now that my uprights passed with flying colors, I think the chassis measurements that I built from were designed around very short / low uprights as the lower trailing arm fouled the bottom chassis rail. Mine are almost 300mm top to bottom giving a nice wide/deep span.
As luck would have it, it was at the junction of three chassis segments so spent some fun time line boring with a hole saw to clear a path, then lined it with some 3.5mm pipe cut to shape so as to not loose any strength. It all turned out looking quite original. I have also had to order longer wheel studs as these mags only allow the studs to protrude barely flush with the nut and that is not good enough for the road. Hopefully that`s the last of any chassis chopping that may be needed.
Cheers
Yes I have seen them and looked in envy at your choices. Freight would be a killer to NZ.
I have been setting up the rear suspension now that my uprights passed with flying colors, I think the chassis measurements that I built from were designed around very short / low uprights as the lower trailing arm fouled the bottom chassis rail. Mine are almost 300mm top to bottom giving a nice wide/deep span.
As luck would have it, it was at the junction of three chassis segments so spent some fun time line boring with a hole saw to clear a path, then lined it with some 3.5mm pipe cut to shape so as to not loose any strength. It all turned out looking quite original. I have also had to order longer wheel studs as these mags only allow the studs to protrude barely flush with the nut and that is not good enough for the road. Hopefully that`s the last of any chassis chopping that may be needed.
Cheers
Attachments
Thanks Mike / Udo, just looking forward to putting the grinders away, very happy that there is no structural drama. Its time now to ensure that no brackets or what ever are missed out as I am looking at getting the chassis powder coated as I am not looking forward to sand blasting and painting in my shed again.
Cheers
Russell
Cheers
Russell
Now you have to admit, that`s a cool looking knob`.
I was given some Mclaren lapel badges and I thought that with a little bit of machining and the dremmel, it would fit. I can get the gear change rod direct to the gearbox with one universal / mid bearing. Also added double shear to my rear upright inner mount whilst I wait for some bits to arrive.
Cheers
I was given some Mclaren lapel badges and I thought that with a little bit of machining and the dremmel, it would fit. I can get the gear change rod direct to the gearbox with one universal / mid bearing. Also added double shear to my rear upright inner mount whilst I wait for some bits to arrive.
Cheers
