McLaren M8 B look alike

[kiwi ka]

Well I promised to myself that I would have 4 wheels on it by Christmas, so 4 years to get 4 wheels on is? I had finally got all my hub parts in the one place and pressed them to gether, and they still turned round. Lots of measurements to co ordinate so its nice when it all works.The motor is now being stripped down ready for a freshen up plus a cam and some other bits. I have made the manifolds to take the 4 x twin choke carbs so we might see a bit more action early next year. I plan on spending some of my holidays on man time.
Hope every one has a relaxed break.
Merry Christmas

 

[Richard]

This is going to be an awesome machine! Good job, Russell.

 

[Russ Noble]

Looking good Russell.

Is it just the camera angle or have you turned the heads down on some of the bolts? For lightening? That's getting pretty serious....

Cheers,

 

[kiwi ka]

Yes just for fun where bolts are only in the shear situation I whacked the heads back a bit to make them look sexy!! and lighter. Found an even easier way to take some weight out of the car was to slow down my food intake so now can add some 16 kg of go fast bits....

 

[Russ Noble]

Great stuff Russell,

Try jogging round the block as well

You could also shorten up the nylocs. But spending that time jogging may be more beneficial WRT all up weight. epper:

Cheers and Merry Christmas.

 

nah, just buy the thin nylocks. not much fred but tho.
steve. hows things in the sth.? should be down for the Southern next year. ps one SP 250 out the door ( geez, six months work )on mon then on to the Lola t70, ah no on second thought theres less to do on my other SP so il'l finish that first. regards all

 

[Richard]

one SP 250 out the door ( geez, six months work )on mon then on to the Lola t70, ah no on second thought theres less to do on my other SP so il'l finish that first. regards all

Forget the SP - build the LOLA!!!!

 

thanks, i may have to take a vote on that issue. merry christmas all. steve

 

[Dave]

Found an even easier way to take some weight out of the car was to slow down my food intake so now can add some 16 kg of go fast bits....

That's funny I remember a few years back wanting to buy some carbon fibre light weight stuff for one of my cars, the missus turned around when she saw the bill and said " Why don't you give up eating Pizza ya fat Bast__d and save some money".:dead:

 

[Richard]

Nooooooo - anything but the pizza (and the alcohol)......

 

[kiwi ka]

Hi there
Just a little more progress, I have fitted all body panels ready for the decals. We are putting the car in a local car club show, so its got a dummy motor, half assembled so that people can get an idea of how it will look. Basicly its ready for the final fit out and set up.
Does any one have some ideas on basic settings for the wheel alignment. The set up is not too dissimilar to a GT40. I have every thing ready to assemble once the short block is back from the reconditioners.
Cheers

 

[Jac Mac]

Russell, I have mate who is Mclaren nuts, first thing he asks when he calls in here is how is that guy up north getting on with his- these latest pics are gonna cause some trouble around here!!

Jac Mac

 

[kiwi ka]

Jac Mac
I caused some trouble just befor I took those picture. I had just added the shocks to the rear for the display and was standing at the front when it slowly ttipped ove backwards. All I could do was slowly allow it to land on its rear wheels with no damage or impact. Then is was a mission to get it back up on the trolley. Its going to have to get down onto its wheels soon now as its getting heavy.
From your vast knowlege bank, any thoughts on alignment. Basicly I was just going to ask some of the F5000 guys and start some where there. A couple of the Mclaren 5000`s were running neutral front and up to 2mm toe in on the rear.

 

[Jac Mac]

Russel,

Front-I would start with around 1mm toe in with 2.5° neg camber at ( Hoosier recommend up to 3° negative )- bed in is critical, get on the website for info & dont leave em out in the Sun anymore than necessary!, might need a little more toe in depending on your front scrub radius ( imaginary line thru top/bottom ball joints to tyre contact patch.) Looks like you might have about the right amount of castor on RF by pic ( RH lock & slight positive camber gain ).

Rear- You have to start somewhere & tyre temps/wear pattern will be best indicators.
2° pos Castor, 2° neg camber,2mm toe in would be simple to remember as a start point and shouldnt create any weird handling traits while you deal with all the little stuff that usually appears on your first drive.

Jac Mac

 

[Fred W Ballinger]

Sure looks nice out in the sun, you must be itching to drive it

Cheers

Fred W B

 

[David Sturch]

Russell,
You guys in Middle Earth make me sick and so does the snow here. Palm trees in your back yard. I'm just jealous because I have to work in a 20x20 box and can't open the door. Here is a pic from my living room window this morning, my most used tool is the snow shovel.
Dave

 

hey ,its not all good you know. it rained for 10 minutes yesterday here in auckland.
good pics russ. steve

 

[kiwi ka]

Jac Mac
Thanks for that. Can you or any one else help out with the rear spring rates. I have had it worked out before and bought springs accordingly but after sitting the car on the ground, have concernes that we are way too hard.
The distance from the inboard pivot is 415mm to the shock attachment and from the same inboard pivot to the wheel hub face is 575mm with the shock sitting at an angle of 65 degree to the horizonal or 25 degree off the vertical. I estimate that the car will weigh somewhere around 400 kg at the rear and 250 kg on the front. What poundage springs would you recomend. If you look at one of my last posts, you can see a shot of the rear suspension.
Cheers
Russell
Ps Steve should we tell them that we are having the hottest driest summer in about 20 years... Nah

 

[Russ Noble]

Russell,

Before anyone can do any calculations you really need to state what suspension frequency you want to go with. But you've already done the calcs and you think the resulting springs are too hard? Don't worry about any more calcs, just suck it and see, and go softer if necessary later.

What springs did you end up running front and rear?

I've done the calcs for my car based on 3Hz and because of the way I've designed my motion ratios, the spring rate works out to 800lb/in front and rear. I'm also getting a pair of 700's wound up and will try them if necessary in either the front or rear depending on handling characteristics.

I may have wasted a couple of hundred bucks on the 700's, I may not need them,but if I've got massive under or over steer then I can just throw them in the appropriate end and it should help and give me a reference pont.

Theory is fine but in the end it comes down to what works best. Right now I seem to have mislaid the info on my actual wheel rates. Wheel rates are really the only valid comparison of suspension stiffness between different cars.

You must be getting close to completion now!

Cheers

 

[David Sturch]

Two Russell's
As you can see I am watching with interest. This is the part of tuning I hate most. This is when you wish you had a private track. Racks of springs of different rates , scales and few sets of shocks. Russell k did you have the original car setup as a guide for spring rates and dampening rates.
Dave