He did a good job Marcus. I always have trouble placing those Unleaded Fuel Only stickers too.
Dave
Dave
McLaren M8 B look alike
- Thread starter russell k
- Start date
When you get this thing sorted out and on the track, make sure you get us some good video.
Russell,
those graphics make a super screensaver (if I may...) and bring your car out beautifully.
Yes, the wheels will certainly call for another mortgage, but what about refurbishing used ones?
E - WHEELS - Can-Am Cars LTD.
If you go through Chuck´s parts inventory, he also seems to have the right hubs...
Best,
Marcus
those graphics make a super screensaver (if I may...) and bring your car out beautifully.
Yes, the wheels will certainly call for another mortgage, but what about refurbishing used ones?
E - WHEELS - Can-Am Cars LTD.
If you go through Chuck´s parts inventory, he also seems to have the right hubs...
Best,
Marcus
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A bit more progress now with the motor nearly together. Putting on the heads last night when bang, broke a head stud. #### Took the head off again and just a slippet of thread sitting above the block surface and it moved, very lucky. I have now got a set of ARP studs to put back in so onwards again. One question to the Rover experts, If I run it on unleaded fuel, what additive will I need to run to protect the valve seats. I will be running conventional oils.
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Not sure that I'm keen on some of the additives. In the past in the Rangerover I've run 10% avgas which should provide enough lead to protect the stems and stop excessive valve/seat recession. But it's a bit of a hassle and I'm not sure the Rover motor needs it. The last four years I haven't bothered with anything. FWIW I think cam wear is a bigger problem in the Rover motor.
Well we are now ready to jam the sucker in the hole as they say. After being cheapskate and trying to use what looked like perfect used head bolts, I got lucky as one broke off flush with the block and it just screwed out with no further damage. Now I have a set of ARP head bolts and we are all screwed down now and ready to go. Its been a case of double checking that I have every bolt and part needed to do the job on saturday to avoid tears. Once its in, connect up the plumbing and wiring then add fuel. JacMac and Russ, I am using a MSD distributor and masterblaster coil, any suggestions over timming. I have read your previous discussions re getting oil pressure so hope to have no problems in that area and will be setting up the 4 x 40mm twin choke Del Orto carbs with the help of Murray. All going well BRMMMM.
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Russel hey bloke great news hope it all fires up ok, as Jac and Russ have told you by the sound of it , LEAVE the plugs out till you get some oil pressure up, Important for longativity, as some times it can take a while to self prime, if that dose happen dont get the starter to hot, 15-20 secs at a time is ample then give it a min to cool, repeat till you have pressure, put plugs in kick in the G#tz and grin from ear to ear, some advice for what its worth, run it in on mineral oil , but change to a good sinthetic once run in, you wont regret it.
good luck mate
ps have you heard latest, early next year a Mclaren extavaganza at Hampton Downs new Raceway, quite a few cars coming over from the States i am told, will be well worth waiting for
cheers John
good luck mate
ps have you heard latest, early next year a Mclaren extavaganza at Hampton Downs new Raceway, quite a few cars coming over from the States i am told, will be well worth waiting for
cheers John
Here goes for a NI/SI disaggreement
-- around 8° initial advance and 32° total for ign timing---block off the vac adv with those carbs!
On first start of a Rover prime with old dist that has gear teeth removed/machined off to obtain oil pressure prior to startup--dont even think about startup without doing this on a Rover, the oiling system along with that of a Holden 253/308 is one of the worst to prime on first start.
Synthetic, with a flat tappet cam--you might regret it in the long run!
-- around 8° initial advance and 32° total for ign timing---block off the vac adv with those carbs!On first start of a Rover prime with old dist that has gear teeth removed/machined off to obtain oil pressure prior to startup--dont even think about startup without doing this on a Rover, the oiling system along with that of a Holden 253/308 is one of the worst to prime on first start.
Synthetic, with a flat tappet cam--you might regret it in the long run!
Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
I concur with Jac
His ignition ideas are about right for initial setup - may change later.
The motor will need primed with a tool in an electric drill Should be able to make a bar about 10mm with a 2 mm slot in the bottom to fit on the oil pump drive. Remove Distributor and crank the drill to you get pressure and see oil at the rockers.
Also Mineral 20W50 is the only stuff for these old engines.
Then there is a group that say on first start up you need to take to 2000 - 2500 rpm for 20 mins to run the cam in.(need to vary speed between these revs) Pribably need to run your garden hose on the rad to assist with heat dissapation during this process.
Keep a check on the oil level - mine used a load in the first few start ups.
Lastly carbs should be easier to get to run than the EFi
Cheers
Ian
His ignition ideas are about right for initial setup - may change later.
The motor will need primed with a tool in an electric drill Should be able to make a bar about 10mm with a 2 mm slot in the bottom to fit on the oil pump drive. Remove Distributor and crank the drill to you get pressure and see oil at the rockers.
Also Mineral 20W50 is the only stuff for these old engines.
Then there is a group that say on first start up you need to take to 2000 - 2500 rpm for 20 mins to run the cam in.(need to vary speed between these revs) Pribably need to run your garden hose on the rad to assist with heat dissapation during this process.
Keep a check on the oil level - mine used a load in the first few start ups.
Lastly carbs should be easier to get to run than the EFi
Cheers
Ian
Jac, mineral only on a flat tappet cam, thats something i didnt no, please explain, i put a 3.5 in a Hartly cabin cruiser i had, and John harcourt from CH CH who supplied me with new manifold and carby for it, told me to run Sinthetic,
just proves you never stop learning.
sorry Russel put you crook
cheers John
just proves you never stop learning.
sorry Russel put you crook
cheers John
Hi John, Synthetic is considered 'TOO' slippery and as such can prevent or inhibit lifter rotation which is crucial to the survival of a Flat Tappet cam, particularly those with small dia lifters as found in most pushrod V8's etc. Not as critical in OHC stuff like Subaru/Nissan etc where the lifter is a larger dia & there is less mass in the valve train.
We thrashed this out here on the Forum last year- one thread with several links for further info was started by Sandy--called ::Synthetic or should it be --- Sinthetic.
Do a search on --- synthetic --- & you will find it.
Another big issue is the reduction of ZDDP amounts in todays oils.
We thrashed this out here on the Forum last year- one thread with several links for further info was started by Sandy--called ::Synthetic or should it be --- Sinthetic.
Do a search on --- synthetic --- & you will find it.
Another big issue is the reduction of ZDDP amounts in todays oils.
Jac Mac and Co many thanks for all the help. I am running an MSD digital 6AL and dist. I have just established TDC and marked that for later. Todays effort has the motor and trani in and all bolted, up its now a case of connecting every thing up. Got caught out with one of the bottom bolt holes on the gear box having a different clearance so hade to disconnect it again and drill it out whilst on the hoist, thank goodness for Hirepool. I had made up a clutch aligning tool so everything just slipped together. Only problem to solve is that the clutch doed not appeare to operate, it feels metal to metal so tomorrow its drill an inspection hole in the housing or the Audi box above the thrust bearing and see whats happening. I have fitted a new thrust bearing and all seem fine so its a mystery.
I will be running on mineral oil and appreciate all the clues on priming, should be a breeze. Its very heartening after all the effort and fabrication that it all fitted back into the hole. Its very tight around the water pump and belt drive, nothing touches or fouls, and its all very robust!
Thanks for the help.
I will be running on mineral oil and appreciate all the clues on priming, should be a breeze. Its very heartening after all the effort and fabrication that it all fitted back into the hole. Its very tight around the water pump and belt drive, nothing touches or fouls, and its all very robust!
Thanks for the help.
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Good luck Russell.
My first start up story here (a while ago in the proto chassis)
LocostBuilders
Cheers
Fred W B
My first start up story here (a while ago in the proto chassis)
LocostBuilders
Cheers
Fred W B
Have fun Russel. This is the best part after all those hours of work. Tweeking and dialing your car in,
Dave
Dave
Well I drilled the inspection hole in the bell housing and all is in order, its just a strong pressure plate when you try the lever by hand so took the box out, cleaned out any aloy swarf and back in bolted up in less than 10 minutes.At least its very easy to seperate the box in the car. Hopefully when its had a bit of work and operated via the hydrolics that its easier.
Russell
Russell
Question for the start up procedure, I have been told after doing all the oil pressure stuff to do my start up dry, run it briefly to get some heat into the head gasket, allow to cool, fill with water and then do the run up to 3000 to settle the cam in etc.
I can understand the no glycol part but am concerned about running the block dry,
I can understand the no glycol part but am concerned about running the block dry,
