SL-C powerplant possibility?

Perhaps if it's turbocharged and a chimp tunes it.
In "uber" reliable n/a form, it may make more power at idle than yours does at redline ;)

:)

2531%20-%20communism%20engine%20rotary%20theory.jpg
 
Price of new billet shifters:
$250 US
$250,000 CAD and only available through McMaster Carr
:D

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To bad it doesn't go straight on a straight road ;)
Would be an awful choice for the SL-C too.


This one does. Steering rack is in the factory location. ;)

Unlike the SP Engineering one from way back when. :heart:

All jokes aside. How are you making out with your SLC build? Is the rotary in and running yet? :coolgleam:
 
This one does. Steering rack is in the factory location. ;)
I forgot. Followed that build on the V8 RX forum. Did you sell it because you couldn't see over the hood?

Never did like those engines...only good for drag racing...and the rotaries are right on your tail or passing consistently now.
 
I forgot. Followed that build on the V8 RX forum. Did you sell it because you couldn't see over the hood?

Never did like those engines...only good for drag racing...and the rotaries are right on your tail or passing consistently now.

LOL... I can see fine over the hood fine, and the car drove like a lightweight Supra on rails...or you could say a Rx7 with a real engine ;).

I got rid of the car because I had too many car projects going on at the same time and a deal was on the table that made it attractive to get out of 2 projects and into one I really wanted. It was just the odd man (project) out.

What exactly are the redeeming qualities of the Rotary again?

Power?? Nope
Fuel economy?? Nope
Reliable?? Nope...biggest joke ever
Lightweight?? I guess, until you get into making any power, then that benefit is gone....

Oh well, it's cool to be different. ;)
 
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Never did like those engines...only good for drag racing...and the rotaries are right on your tail or passing consistently now.


LOL...that was a good one. I can't believe I missed it. Thank you for my daily smile. :laugh:

I hope you are taking this as friendly car guy banter. If we all liked the same things, life would be pretty boring.

Best of luck with your build. rockonsmile
 
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I do like those bulging hoods btw :)
All jokes aside. How are you making out with your SLC build? Is the rotary in and running yet? :coolgleam:
Slowly but surely. Engine/trans are in. Redoing my engine mounts in billet aluminum currently. Can't leave well enough alone.

What exactly are the redeeming qualities of the Rotary again?

Power?? I should make 750+ on 91 octane... not LS levels but not too shabby either :rolleyes:
Fuel economy?? Who cares...I believe only (wannabe) Prius owners worry about that.
Lightweight?? I guess, until you get into making any power, then that benefit is gone....
How does more power make it weigh more?
My 3-rotor weighs less than a 2-rotor
fwiw :)
Reliable?? Don't let chimps setup and tune your engine. No shortage of reliable setups out there...just because you couldn't do it doesn't mean others can't :thumbsup:

Oh well, it's cool to be different. ;)
Says the guy with a 2JZ swap in an RX-7 ;)

All in jest of course and appreciate your pm :p:
 
Ha...I guess Mazda isn't a good tuner then. Bone stock Rotary engines took dumps left and right during the 90's. Look at all of the classified ads for Mazda Rx's... Common theme:

"Rebuilt engine, only 2000 miles on it", or "New engine from Mazda". It doesn't matter if the cars had 20k mile on them or 200k. All the same: "new fresh motor". This includes bone stock cars as well.

Weight: The weight of a fully dressed FD rotary is very close to a fully dressed LS engine.

I'm glad you could find 1 random esoteric unobtanium video example of a powerful Rotary engine that didn't break within the first 20 feet of the starting line. Good find!

I've been drag racing since 1992, and at every event we cursed those damn Rotary engined cars for delaying the action every time they spilled their guts at the starting line.

Well, this was when they survived the burnout box and actually made it to the starting line.

We coped with our frustration by taking bets and giving style points on how far the Rotary cars could get off of the starting line before they blew up. ;)
 
I do like those bulging hoods btw :)

Slowly but surely. Engine/trans are in. Redoing my engine mounts in billet aluminum currently. Can't leave well enough alone.




Says the guy with a 2JZ swap in an RX-7 ;)

All in jest of course and appreciate your pm :p:

Are you going to post a build thread? It sounds like you are gearing up a sweet build. I would like to see it.

All in fun buddy, it's just a hobby! :thumbsup:
 

Ron Earp

Admin
Ha...I guess Mazda isn't a good tuner then. Bone stock Rotary engines took dumps left and right during the 90's. Look at all of the classified ads for Mazda Rx's... Common theme:

"Rebuilt engine, only 2000 miles on it", or "New engine from Mazda". It doesn't matter if the cars had 20k mile on them or 200k. All the same: "new fresh motor". This includes bone stock cars as well.

True that. I can remember looking for an RX7 (3rd Gen) in the middle and late 90s and just about every damn one of them had a "factory replaced engine" or a "newly rebuilt engine". Cured me of wanting one.
 
Ha...I guess Mazda isn't a good tuner then.
Only the sadistic Mazda engineers would design fuel cut into the ecu for "overboost" situations as a safety measure. Guaranteed detonation and lighter wallet.

"Rebuilt engine, only 2000 miles on it", or "New engine from Mazda". It doesn't matter if the cars had 20k mile on them or 200k. All the same: "new fresh motor". This includes bone stock cars as well.
No shortage of people upping the boost without the supporting mods, stock or not. Some would just plain forget to add oil to them forgetting that they inject oil.

Weight: The weight of a fully dressed FD rotary is very close to a fully dressed LS engine.
Weight and see what mine weighs :crowngrin:

I'm glad you could find 1 random esoteric unobtanium video example of a powerful Rotary engine that didn't break within the first 20 feet of the starting line. Good find!
You mean the most current matchup between two of the biggest players in reference to what I stated. Yeah, random.

2j's will remain top dog in the import drag world for some time to come, no doubt, however, rotaries are making huge strides again and are gaining some serious ground on the mighty boat anchors. All it takes is real innovation and development, both of which were lacking in the rotary scene until recently.

I've been drag racing since 1992, and at every event we cursed those damn Rotary engined cars for delaying the action every time they spilled their guts at the starting line.
Then you'd remember the likes of Ari Yallon and Jesus Padilla consistently dominating the import series, even outpacing the 2JZ's at the time and taking their respective championships.

Well, this was when they survived the burnout box and actually made it to the starting line.
You mean like these:
YouTube - Blown 3 Rotor
YouTube - R X 7 burn out, blown engine
Now that's random
 
For someone looking to get the most bang for the buck out of a crate engine (ie: install and go! no building yourself or sending to a shop to build), what are thoughts on Mast Motorsport's LS7 Dry Sump "Black Label" engine? Approximately the same cost as a crate LS9, but 675 HP with an ARE dry sump.

Assuming dry sump is a requirement up front, that rules out an LS3 crate engine (sure, you could hire a builder and retrofit a real dry sump). LS7/LS9 fit the bill from the factory. It seems few other true crate engines meet those requirements without modification.
 
For someone looking to get the most bang for the buck out of a crate engine (ie: install and go! no building yourself or sending to a shop to build), what are thoughts on Mast Motorsport's LS7 Dry Sump "Black Label" engine? Approximately the same cost as a crate LS9, but 675 HP with an ARE dry sump.

Assuming dry sump is a requirement up front, that rules out an LS3 crate engine (sure, you could hire a builder and retrofit a real dry sump). LS7/LS9 fit the bill from the factory. It seems few other true crate engines meet those requirements without modification.

Does that engine include all of the lines/fittings/tanks, etc for your specific application? Even if it does, it's my opinion you could do a lot more with $22k, and build an engine that would destroy that one and live as long or longer if you use the right parts and much more importantly, the right people. ymmv
 
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