Oh yea.......
I am very much so looking forward to the "first start" video clip that I'm am certain you will be posting..........right?
you can bet ( but will be not too soon)
TOM
Toms RCR 40 Trackracer
- Thread starter EGLITOM
- Start date
- Status
you can bet ( but will be not too soon)
TOM
Tom,
your car is simply coming wonderful and too sexy.
That modified back, and that rear wheels are simply pure FETISH.
I love that, bravo!
your car is simply coming wonderful and too sexy.
That modified back, and that rear wheels are simply pure FETISH.
I love that, bravo!
Original rear lights
Managed to purchase a pair of original rear lights from Ebay. They where still in the original packaging.
Fitted them to the car today. It was a easy job, because you could still see the imprint of the original mounting holes in the gelcoat . A quick comparisson showed that they where of the same dimensions. Another indication for the originality of th RCR body.
So i just redrilled the original holes and mounted the lights. 15 Min per side and done.
Unfortunately one of the lights is missing the rubber band which goes inbetween the body and the light to avoid scratching and rubbing. Of course i could adapt something else there but if by accident one of the forum members have a spare and his willing selling it to me i would appriciate it very much
Thanks
TOM
lights in original packing
original mounting pattern
lights mounted
Managed to purchase a pair of original rear lights from Ebay. They where still in the original packaging.
Fitted them to the car today. It was a easy job, because you could still see the imprint of the original mounting holes in the gelcoat . A quick comparisson showed that they where of the same dimensions. Another indication for the originality of th RCR body.
So i just redrilled the original holes and mounted the lights. 15 Min per side and done.
Unfortunately one of the lights is missing the rubber band which goes inbetween the body and the light to avoid scratching and rubbing. Of course i could adapt something else there but if by accident one of the forum members have a spare and his willing selling it to me i would appriciate it very much
Thanks
TOM
lights in original packing
original mounting pattern
lights mounted
G50/05 Endcap modification
As the G50/05 has the same lenght and the donut endcap as a /03 and /04, it need to be shortened to fit in the car.
I haven´t put the engine/trans combo into the car to define how much it need to be shortened. I followed the nice descriiption on Randy´s ( BIG FOOT) website how to do it. Full trust in you Randy.
I basicaly did the same. Cut away the donut mount and the strengthening webbing with the handsaw (it was 10 PM and my neighbours would love me doing it with the angel grinder at this time ). The rest was filing and grinding with the flexible shaft. I tried to achiev a classic racing trans look with doing round and flowing forms ( like in a casting mould).
i think it looks great, like a factory racing part. it will give a nice touch to the backend of the car.
BILLET END CAPS ar for RODDERS, this is the design fitting to a GT40.
What you think?
tomorrow the seat for the shift rod bearing and seal will be machined
TOM
As the G50/05 has the same lenght and the donut endcap as a /03 and /04, it need to be shortened to fit in the car.
I haven´t put the engine/trans combo into the car to define how much it need to be shortened. I followed the nice descriiption on Randy´s ( BIG FOOT) website how to do it. Full trust in you Randy.
I basicaly did the same. Cut away the donut mount and the strengthening webbing with the handsaw (it was 10 PM and my neighbours would love me doing it with the angel grinder at this time ). The rest was filing and grinding with the flexible shaft. I tried to achiev a classic racing trans look with doing round and flowing forms ( like in a casting mould).
i think it looks great, like a factory racing part. it will give a nice touch to the backend of the car.
BILLET END CAPS ar for RODDERS, this is the design fitting to a GT40.
What you think?
tomorrow the seat for the shift rod bearing and seal will be machined
TOM
Randy,
they work great when properly set up/adjusted....
they work great when properly set up/adjusted....
The shifter Brandwood makes for the G50/01 and it's same length variants will not work on the G50/03 unless there are changes made to the mounts. Regardless of adjustments.
Well documented on my website. Brandwood was not responsive to my phone calls (voicemail) nor emails on the subject.
This is NOT an RCR Problem - it's Brandwood's problem.
Well documented on my website. Brandwood was not responsive to my phone calls (voicemail) nor emails on the subject.
This is NOT an RCR Problem - it's Brandwood's problem.
Randy,
there are two differnt rear cable mounts....one is for short and one is for long tail shafts..
I understand that they are tough to get hold of from time to time...I know they have moved locations and here is their new number....480-354-2307.
Jim is pretty good ...otherwise ask for Morgan..
there are two differnt rear cable mounts....one is for short and one is for long tail shafts..
I understand that they are tough to get hold of from time to time...I know they have moved locations and here is their new number....480-354-2307.
Jim is pretty good ...otherwise ask for Morgan..
It would have been nice to actually talk with someone there but there was no opportunity.
The brackets and cables for the longer transmission may have lent themselves to easier modification (less fabrication) than those for the shorter variant that I had..
Either way - there will be fabrication (most likely) required as the longer housing of the G50/03 needs to be cut down and the engine moved forward in order get the transmission inside the bodywork of a GT40.
The picture below is the longer housing of the G50/03 in a GTM with the Brandwood shifter;
The picture here is the length of the cut-down G50/03 and Brandwood bracket as well as my own work to make the whole package come together;
The pictures below show the shift cables/brackets and lever through the full range of motion with no binding whatsoever.
Sorry to tromp all over your build thread Tom. I just feel that it's important to point out that if you are going to use a G50/03 in a GT40, you will need to do some additional work. Certainly that effort is not beyond either one of us and I think the information provided on my website will help most anyone create the same thing that I did if needed.
The brackets and cables for the longer transmission may have lent themselves to easier modification (less fabrication) than those for the shorter variant that I had..
Either way - there will be fabrication (most likely) required as the longer housing of the G50/03 needs to be cut down and the engine moved forward in order get the transmission inside the bodywork of a GT40.
The picture below is the longer housing of the G50/03 in a GTM with the Brandwood shifter;
The picture here is the length of the cut-down G50/03 and Brandwood bracket as well as my own work to make the whole package come together;
The pictures below show the shift cables/brackets and lever through the full range of motion with no binding whatsoever.
Sorry to tromp all over your build thread Tom. I just feel that it's important to point out that if you are going to use a G50/03 in a GT40, you will need to do some additional work. Certainly that effort is not beyond either one of us and I think the information provided on my website will help most anyone create the same thing that I did if needed.
Fenderflares continued
Hi all
after a pretty busy september, preparing and actualy racing my bike ( scored two times second) and supporting simon, i´m back working on the car.
Continued to further fixing the flares. I did this by sanding in a flat groove along the glue seams app 2 inches wide and 1/12" deep, covering each 50% flare and clip. Did this on the inside as well. Than i laid in 2 layers of 350g and 2 layers of 450g glassmat with vinylesther-resin. It looks a little dark ,but the accelerator of the resin has a dark purple color, giving the whole thing a dark look. I actualy build up higher quite a bit ,to be able to sand it smooth and even on the transition from one part to the other. I did a test sanding on the sill extensions and it worked out pretty good. Nice even closed surface. I even left still 1mm to sand down there. The whole sanding will happen after the car was in the oven to bake the body and all the seems and glassfiber has taken a final curement and has sunken in.
flares with seam filled
Sill extension testsanded
Inside seam
Also worked on glassing in my gurney buble. I located it very much towards the center of the car. A little more inward as i have seen on other cars, but this way the center of the buble is exactly centered over the drivers head. I used the same method to fix it as i used on the flares. I had the top of the door plus the a and b pillar of the door filled with the 2 K epoxy foam afterwards, which gave me the opportunity to sand it into a shape, which allows a nice inner look and a positive mould ,to glass it in from the inside also. With the high profiles fo the inner liner around the buble and the foam filling the top of the door is still very rigid.
bubble glued in and "glassing groove"sanded
glassed in
glassed in from the inside
Parallel i´m working on my transaxle. I had it taken apart. To prepare for an oil cooling system, i choosed to weld in two additional 18*1,5mm bungs.
I´m going to use the original breather vent opening for a 90° adapter to D8 ,which will go to the suction side of the pump. The return flow will go to the endcap of the box where i welded in a new opening. This way i hope i can establish a nice flow of cooled oil through the whole transmission. It could also be hooked up the other way around. The second bung i welded in, is for a thermostatic switch, which will switch on the cooling pump at 85°C and shut it off at 80°C in automatic mode.
return flow adapter in end cap
thermostat and suction adapter
The seat of the shortened end cap is machined and the housing will go out this weekend for completion.
TOM
AWH: 245 h
Hi all
after a pretty busy september, preparing and actualy racing my bike ( scored two times second) and supporting simon, i´m back working on the car.
Continued to further fixing the flares. I did this by sanding in a flat groove along the glue seams app 2 inches wide and 1/12" deep, covering each 50% flare and clip. Did this on the inside as well. Than i laid in 2 layers of 350g and 2 layers of 450g glassmat with vinylesther-resin. It looks a little dark ,but the accelerator of the resin has a dark purple color, giving the whole thing a dark look. I actualy build up higher quite a bit ,to be able to sand it smooth and even on the transition from one part to the other. I did a test sanding on the sill extensions and it worked out pretty good. Nice even closed surface. I even left still 1mm to sand down there. The whole sanding will happen after the car was in the oven to bake the body and all the seems and glassfiber has taken a final curement and has sunken in.
flares with seam filled
Sill extension testsanded
Inside seam
Also worked on glassing in my gurney buble. I located it very much towards the center of the car. A little more inward as i have seen on other cars, but this way the center of the buble is exactly centered over the drivers head. I used the same method to fix it as i used on the flares. I had the top of the door plus the a and b pillar of the door filled with the 2 K epoxy foam afterwards, which gave me the opportunity to sand it into a shape, which allows a nice inner look and a positive mould ,to glass it in from the inside also. With the high profiles fo the inner liner around the buble and the foam filling the top of the door is still very rigid.
bubble glued in and "glassing groove"sanded
glassed in
glassed in from the inside
Parallel i´m working on my transaxle. I had it taken apart. To prepare for an oil cooling system, i choosed to weld in two additional 18*1,5mm bungs.
I´m going to use the original breather vent opening for a 90° adapter to D8 ,which will go to the suction side of the pump. The return flow will go to the endcap of the box where i welded in a new opening. This way i hope i can establish a nice flow of cooled oil through the whole transmission. It could also be hooked up the other way around. The second bung i welded in, is for a thermostatic switch, which will switch on the cooling pump at 85°C and shut it off at 80°C in automatic mode.
return flow adapter in end cap
thermostat and suction adapter
The seat of the shortened end cap is machined and the housing will go out this weekend for completion.
TOM
AWH: 245 h
I know that I can get a few threads to engage of the NPT thread in the hole - but unless I re-tap it from the Metric straight thread, I'm not certain it will seal up.. Did you re-tap yours?
Thanks...
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