The long and short answer is, and no disrespect to the forum members, that I have taken the time and made the effort to achieve with the sealing of the car, a car that is built to a higher standard and one that can be driven with all confidence as a daily driver.
I went to great lengths to source sealing rubbers other than the normal and made sure that all water entry points were eliminated as a priority right from the day I commenced the build.
If some of the cars leak it is only because the guys don't or can't be bothered to do a proper job in the first place.
I have been building cars since I was 17 so I have a history of 40 years to fall back on and I dont accept "close enough is good enough".
Dimi, Since getting your answer (which is good news), I'm wondering what the long answer is. Did you have to reposition the door rubbers originally, or spend time sealing up all the front bulkhead/footwell penetrations, or similar? The hinge-out windows should seal better than the little race-car flaps.
Just curious, because some of the cars leak a lot, and it seems feasible to be able to seal them as you have.
As you use your car a lot, may I ask if it's waterproof, as in reasonably dry for you in the rain?
Obviously rain will fall straight in when a door is opened, but I mean driving along?
I wonder if your shiftpattern is the same as on your picture in a post.
Reverse Left-Up.... The Toyota have the Reverse Right-Down under the 5th gear. I plan to use the same shift lever for a config like the one in your picture, but with the addition of a 6th gear.
The car is a Fiat X1/9 with a VW engine and a VW gearbox with a Quafie 6-gear shiftkit. Just for racing.
Hi Dimi Im Keron from Perth currently doing #74 .Im at the exhaust stage and have taken a real likeing to your system,would you mind if my exhaust guy copied a simular system for my 40.Im just a bit worried on what cost id be looking at.if you dont mind me asking?