And so it begins...the AP build.

Devin

Supporter
I feel your pain Joe…I definitely feel your pain. Keep taking those bites of the elephant and someday it will be done. I had to stop contemplating & trying to “make sense of it” and just make the best of it and start cutting the easiest part to make the rest of it fit.
 

Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Joe - not to add to your pain, but don’t forget to do all your panel gaps / shut lines with the weather seals in place. I had to re-do mine - the doors were the biggest pain in the butt..
 
Still tweeking in prep for getting the fringe for the front dabbed up and mounted. With the clam corners clamped down, I noticed that the top can be shifted side to side, which alters gaps. Not sure if this is a result of warpage, or how the clam was put together.

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I decided to move the hinge pass through on the rad fram to the front, rather than the back. This will allow for the clam to be rotated move vertically without the front of the nose hitting the ground.

Still contemplating the best way to lower the top corners of the clam where it meets the windshield and door.
 
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Just get it as good as you can, then cut of the parts not fitting properly, relocate them to the correct radius/placement and fuse it all together again with new epoxy and fibre glass
It will be some work, but it will fit nicely in the end and might actually save you work down the line.
 

Kyle

GT40s Sponsor
One thing I found helpful was to go around and measure everything on the body and write down dimensions with a permanent marker directly on the body. If you start cutting the wrong things to match you’ll end up with lopsided dimensions. There’s no reason why everything shouldn’t be symmetrical in the end.
 

Devin

Supporter
I ended up going down Daniel’s suggested fix for my challenges. I would suggest considering the top middle Dzus or similar fasteners just below the windscreen to keep the upper clam from moving from side to side. This should resolve any body lines moving for proper bodywork and gaps.
 
Planning on it. There are some great photos of what Ford did on the original silver car that Legendary restored.
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I'm always looking for reference on the internet, since this thing didn't come with directions and I'm doing some modifications to make it function better. I stumbled across GT40 Miles by Alisi Motors on my Youtube feed. There are a lot of videos out there and some have very good footage on how the cars are put together, such as this example:
 
It’s been a long day, but progress. One side of the front clam hinge is on. I’ll mount the other tomorrow and home it functions properly? I’ll end up welding on a couple of small tabs to the nuts to allow for safety wire so the bolts can’t back out.
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Devin

Supporter
Nice work Joe! You might consider spacing the nut a little more outboard to enable a jam nut to lock the pivot bolt into place instead of a safety wire or pin. Keep up the great work.
 
Well, the hinges work….sort of. I ran into an unforeseen interference problem with the custom rad support and the front clam as it rotates around. Now brainstorming options that would allow for more rotation of the clam. It opens far enough to allow access to the pedal box area, suspension, brakes, etc as it works now.
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I will be able to trim the lower opening of the front clam on the passenger side about an inch don’t matches the driver’s side (that is currently about an inch from hitting the rad support). This will give a few more degrees of rotation.
Interestingly, as things get bolted down, instead of clamped, body lines and gaps start to improve. Perfect example of this is where the back of the clam meets the lower windshield area of the spider.
 
Trying to make sense of the measurements of the body panels. For instance, the doors are the same length on the bottoms, but the length of the top forward area is longer on the driver’s side. Were original cars symmetrical side to side?
Also wondering if I can handle gapping the front clam to the doors with 1 cut, or if 2 will be needed.
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Less thinking, more cutting. A little more grinding in a few spots and I’ll have the door gapped. I also got to try out my new tool.
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A few more bites of the elephant. Tapered out the seam and got it cleaned and clamped into place before masking off the backside. Mixed up some polyester resin and 404 filler to initial fill the seam before applying some fiberglass over the joint. Let that cure and then removed the clamps to finish the whole area with finishing resin and mat. The backside will be finished in the future.
Clam locating pins and latches are next.
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Getting the lower corners of the clam ready to place locator pins and then clamps. The passenger side needed to be leveled up with the top of the rocket so that the seem would be even. A spacer was placed to mimic the female piece of the pin locator, then some short strand filler was mixed up and smashed into place.
Also wondering what the best plan of attack will be to even up the top corner of the clam where it meets the door. The clam needs to move out on the passenger side, and in on the driver side. I feel like the whole top of the clam is slightly warped favorite driver’s side.
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