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A long update to bring this build log up to the present! I cut apart the frontend and welded in new upright columns and cross supports. The tubing that supports the coilover mount is now actually braced across the frame. The front columns might get a smaller cross brace. I need to finalize...

Please, do post it. I'm in CT but some of the info may be applicable.

The answer is yes...if you don't beat on it. The torque of a V8 is the killer there, and repeated launches from a stop will gut the thing pretty quickly. You'll also start having issues with the 944 halfshafts coming apart with that much power. Guys (including me) that had big power 951's (944T)...

I promised myself I wouldn't update this until I was 100% finished with the suspension front and rear, but I can't help it... Here are some pictures of the aluminum rear uprights I designed and milled. We got a new milling machine at work and of course I needed a 'training' part to learn how to...

Jason, I've done quite a bit of research on this. As Scott basically said, between 4-4.5" front, 4.5-5" rear seems to be the range most all of the dual purpose road/track cars fall under. Some guys that do exclusively road driving are higher than that, and there are some members here that run...

Look at Solid Edge Free 2D drafting. I have the full version of the software and have done a few diagrams like this, but I think you have access to the same tools in the free 2D version. This is not high end OEM electrical and harness design, but it allows you to create great looking simpler...

Regarding Keith's mention of vibration....I have a picture somewhere of me hanging my frame from two ratchet straps off of a beam in the ceiling of my garage and beating the tubes with a rubber mallet. It allowed the frame to 'ring' like a bell and was another trick to shaking loose the debris.

Bob, regarding blowing bits out of the frame.....you are going to have a VERY tough time at this the way you want to approach it. On my Tornado, I drilled out some ~1500 rivets and removed all of the shoddy paneling on the car. I then had to get the rivet heads and debris out before the rivet...

The upper edge appears too high if you're looking to get close to original. Because the front is deformed compared to an original shape too, it's going to be up to your judgement and perspective to get them looking right.

Excellent news! You'll have to start on another one soon so you can continue feeding us all fabrication ideas ;) Have fun with her!

Works well if your A-arm chassis attach points are parallel to the centerline. I had to download OptimumKinematics and use that and CAD software to do the design on my Tornado, which has the upper and lower A-arms attaching to a frame that is tapering in the front.

I've used Columbia River a few times now for pieces I couldn't seem to find elsewhere. Love the sign, and I'm sure the plate is one of those "Why didn't I think of that!" moments to most everyone that's built a set of headers for theirs. Keep up the good work!

Since Andy has not answered, I'll share- Paneling the footwells reduces the (already limited) room for your feet by the pedals- especially true for the Tornado frame. You will for sure have no room for a footrest to the left of the clutch, for those of us with lefthand drive cars. Paneling...

Hi Robert, I'm still in the middle of doing suspension on mine, and am nowhere near the stage where I will be designing the door braces and body hinges and mounts. I'd like to upload whatever can be used by the community, so I'll update this thread and GrabCad as I produce the parts.

Neat part Craig! I don't have a front upright modeled. I went with a Wilwood Pro Spindle and found a model on GrabCad, so I had no need to model it. I have a rather large model being made in collaboration with someone else that hopefully should be finished soon...to all of you looking for...

I've collected and measured quite a few miscellaneous parts so far in this project, and I've started making some of them available on GrabCad for anyone to download. Below are pictures of the first few, and I'll be uploading more as time goes on. Link to my GrabCad page...

Hi Boris, I have been away from the site for quite a while. I am very happy to see you started a build thread here for your work! You couldn't keep it hidden forever! Jordan, if you are determined enough, any modern CAD system will allow you to build this stuff to incredible precision just...

My apologies, thought there was supposed to be a second picture. As far as the rack goes- a change in spring height does not mean a corresponding change in rack height. A proper rack position should present good bump steer qualities throughout the range of motion, regardless of what ride...

No pictures came through, unfortunately. Also, why are you raising the steering rack, and what are you doing to correct the resultant geometry changes?

I'm subscribed to this one...have not yet started researching, but this has been on my to-do list for a while.