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drive them wet with PRC, basically the way just about every "wet" tank in every aircraft built is done. you can use the technique on solids or blind rivets. for blind rivets, go cherrymax, everything else is a poor second. JMHO, but i've been in the aircraft / plane building business since i...

check out Genuine Aircraft. they have really well done kits, great selection of AN/MS hardware cal http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/storeintro.asp

the center stem is the steel "driving anvil", thats what makes a cherrymax a "solid" blind rivet with great strength properties vs standard pop rivets also, a foot note to grinding the head off the rivet before knocking out the center stem. you need to grind down far enough so a much lighter...

looks like CR3213-5 cherrymax. - take a sharp punch, punch out the center stem, or at least get it started - take a #20 drill, drill out the locking collar, but dont drill too far down - take sharp punch and drive out the center stem - using same drill, drill down until level with surrounding...

open the pilot with a no.40 or no.30, then upsize the hole to your final diameter using a stepped unibit. perfect holes everytime. also, the tape does keep the fraying to a minimum

sir, had the exact same problem. remove the front clip, then remove the large panel that allows access to the back of the instrument cluster. look down inside the exposed area, right hand side. on my car there is a coolant line there that had split. what looks like a very difficult repair is...

CAV GT, s/n 102

just did mine the other day, full fuel, roush 427i, rbt zf

see attached, the old "snapped" stub axel and the new stub from dave. after shearing two sets of stub axels and doing my very best to break daves, i can attest, dave's axels work great. i highly doubt there was any heat treating on the original CAV stubs and would be very weary of running them...

try magnolia magnabond

grind the head of your pulling tool until it fits the space. there is plenty of extra metal on the head to allow for some minor "mods" i did this to mine, ground it down until it was "wafer thin", that said, it still works great, hundreds of pulls later. or buy a cherrymax gun with a offset...

andy, whats really amazing is the fact you have a picture of it. wonder if any of the UK heritage groups have ever researched / excavated the site?

andy, pretty sure the picture is of a Vickers Wellington light bomber, the geodesic construction is a clue cal

andy, what size / type and how many rivets do you use?

why not use cherrymax rivets, driven wet with PRC, pretty standard stuff in aviation and readily available?

3M POLYURETHANE PROTECTIVE TAPE 8674 - CLEAR 1 INCH X 36 YARDS from Aircraft Spruce

sirs, we are going to pull the subframe, reinforce and re install. on closer inspection, the design of the subframe was a crack looking for a place to happen. the tranny mount was placed on the edge of the lightening hole. poor design, or maybe a poor install. either way we will significantly re...

to all, see images, this is my CAV serial no. 102, roush 427IR, RBT ZF tranny. the images are looking towards the rear of the car, taken above the tranny. note the cracks radiating from the lightening holes both left and right. has anyone seen this before, any fixes, advice etc thanks in advance cal

blaine, i feel your pain. if i were to do this again, i would have done alot things differently. had many many teething problems. in my case, most were mechanic / builder made, rather than the car. probably my best move was working with people like Ian, Dave Briggs, Larry at Precision. in other...

frank is very correct. we go to the extreme. best to take your parts to a good ano shop, explain what your doing, they will advise the best and most cost effective procedure. also color options etc.