1st parts order - what do you recommend?

Ok so am finally going to be placing my first order very shortly with SGT/AK and was wondering what you guys found would be best to get at the start. The build will be done in stages as and when the funds are available so the order of parts is important. Id rather not be buying things that are just going to be sat there and then find I cant purchase bits i need and stall the build. Or if some have large wait lists then better to order them earlier.

Obviously chassis, panelling etc.

Would you then go for wiring, water pipes, brake/clutch pipes etc?
Suspension and brakes?

Also what tools would you recommend that you may not have in a normal home garage? I know air rivet gun is a no brainer.

I know its wise to have a transaxle but they're tricky at the moment to get hold of an a big chunk of money i'd rather put on other things at the moment. I don't see why it would be too difficult to change a mount later on if needs be?
 
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Davidmgbv8

Supporter
I recommend you decide on your power now and get your transaxle sorted out first. You will need to decide then what clutch, flywheel combination you will run as that affect the bell housing. This also affects how SGT builds the chassis. Renault sits lower, Audi sit higher. GTO racing advises that the UN-1 turbo transaxles are getting pricier and the V-6 bell housing used with the ( small flywheel, clutch) are now fetching almost as much money as Tornado wants for their Ford 302-UN1 bell housing. If you choose that route, SGT needs to know that this bell housing may interfere with a chassis tube. However you can then use standard ford starter, flywheel and clutch. After I found out the 369 transaxle was shit for the horsepower my engine will make, I ordered a UN-1 Turbo, I stuck with the UK standard small flywheel/clutch/starter. The draw back is that should any of those items fail I will have to get from the UK. In retrospect I should have bought the Tornado adaptor and modified my chassis if I found clearance issues. This way I could use US based clutch, flywheel, starter.

So while you may not need a transaxle for long time, I now truly believe it is the start of the build and they are not getting cheaper. You also should decide if you will run a ATB in what ever you use. With world wide supply issues may be a good thing to procure with the transmission you decide on.

Now for the rest of the bits. Your choice of wheel and tyres affect your suspension purchase and vise versa. I ordered SGT complete suspension and uprights with Pin drive. But because of the 4"(UK) 4.5"(US) back space requirement it limits your wheel choice. I personally do not like how the Image 3 piece look so I just ordered today a 2 piece Hallibrand from Vintage Wheels, here, in the US. Then you need to decide what brakes to use. If you buy the SGT suspension, get the brakes to go with it so not to have to re engineer, especially if you do not have access to a lot of tools or fabrication.

I like the quality, look and fit of the SGT suspension so far, the wheel was an unexpected obstacle. Get the complete bolt kit to go with it.

Hope this helps
 
Power is going to be circa 600 and transaxle choice is either a 930 4 speed or Quaife box dependant on what their situation is with them in the future.
ZF is just too expensive and Renault or Audi is no good for me (audi will sit too high as block potentially may be 9.2").

Will be sticking with normal 15" combo of wheels and tyres. Will be specifying gulf arches so 12" rears with 295/50 Avons.
I think the Vintage Wheels do look nicer than the Image 3 pieces too.
 
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Davidmgbv8

Supporter
That is a lot of power which costs$$$ and then the gearbox choices are not inexpensive either. So if you are going that route then yes, All SGT suspension, Brakes, Chassis/panel, water pipe set. That will setup your chassis.

Then I would get your wiring, dash and air con, brake/clutch pipe set

Just my 2 pennies
 
Well, post number #1 and post number #4 are at polar opposites.
#1 is budget conscious and asking for direction
#4 defines a lot of the build and is expensive.

I would agree that the transaxle defines a lot of the rear of the chassis.
I don't know much about the SGT chassis. I would have a chat with them and find out what transaxle options it will support. Then order the options that allow what your desired transaxle it.

After that, as for additional packages, Paneling, plumbing, cooling, brake pedals and steering rack. That will get you started and should see you through to the end of the Christmas period. Would be great if it could be delivered by Christmas

get stuck in i say.

Ryan
 
Well, post number #1 and post number #4 are at polar opposites.
#1 is budget conscious and asking for direction
#4 defines a lot of the build and is expensive.

I would agree that the transaxle defines a lot of the rear of the chassis.
I don't know much about the SGT chassis. I would have a chat with them and find out what transaxle options it will support. Then order the options that allow what your desired transaxle it.

After that, as for additional packages, Paneling, plumbing, cooling, brake pedals and steering rack. That will get you started and should see you through to the end of the Christmas period. Would be great if it could be delivered by Christmas

get stuck in i say.

Ryan

Understandable if you didn’t know my specifics and situation :)

The drivetrain is always going to be a large chunk of the build cost and I’ve spent a long time finding the right bits for what I want engine wise. Just because I need to be budget orientated around the order of bits doesn’t mean I have to scrimp on what I want to build. If it wasn’t for Covid I’d have the whole damn lot ordered by now.

Ive spoken to and been down to SGT and my transaxle options are fine. They have a sizeable bit of work on at the moment and I’m in no rush for delivery. I’ll only get to work on the car in chunks rather than on a day to day/week to week basis anyway.
 
Chris,
What do you intend to use the car for? Track day only? Road only? Do you want it civilised and comfortable to drive on the road or are you happy with a loud race car style?
Simon
 
A bit of both but predominantly street, zero issues with loud race car style.
It will be my fun car.

The engine is looking to be a 402ci with ability to rev to 7500 without issue, according to the cam company it’s manners will actually be fairly good on the street (mid 600’s lift after lash, 260’s ish duration, 112LSA with EFI 8 stack).
I know the car will be a handful scenario dependant and may well enjoy it more with less power but that’s I’ve always gone ott with that (last road toy had 960hp and a dog box).
 
Ok, that’s completely at the opposite end of my interests in a GT40. I have a 330 BHP 302 in my Cobra and absolutely love it, smooth powerful, quiet, and I drive it EVERYWHERE! Early morning drives in the countryside are my favourite. I had a pal with a 351 stroked to 427 in a Cobra, (625 BHP!) a complete beast but at 4mpg when driven in anger, he couldn’t go anywhere without an eye to cost and filling up on a regular basis, it was loud, temperamental and hideous to drive at any other speed than when fully “on it”. Great for showing off but for enjoyment……..he sold it.
it’s good that everybody is different, but it wouldn’t be for me that’s for sure.
simon
 

Mike Pass

Supporter
The ZFQ is out of production and no date for another. One of our members in the NW has run a 427ci with 500ft.lbs through a Porsche G50 for years without it breaking. It has eaten a few different clutches and ripped the centre out of some. It is low speed torque that will break the box. The car has very wide 17" tyres but will still spin them up in the dry very easily. Even with a mid engine configuration with more weight on the rear ( especially with the extra weight of a 351 block) than a Cobra a certain amount of right foot traction control will be needed. Two tyres will only transmit a certain amount of torque to the tarmac. The Avons are pretty gtippy but will have limits.
The Avon 295s will fit a 12" wheel but 11" might be a less of a stretch.
Maybe start looking for a good pre '75 351 block (if planning IVA) and a good Porsche box.
Cheers
Mike
 

Shaun

Supporter
Tool wise I would recommend a band saw for trimming panels, used that a hell of a lot, rivet spacer a godsend, lots of 4mm drill bits, I use the Milwaukee drill bits hex shank ones Screwfix sell them and they are proper sharp and last ages.
Also needed is a bloody good sense of humour, patience, hair to pull out, the ability to do a task many times before its right!!
Parts ordering I pretty much did chassis, suspension, I had decided on UN1 ages ago with a stroked 302 with EFi, frankly I got as much as I could as soon as I could as I had space to store, what with the upcoming change of scene at SGT (no disrespect to anyone in that statement) I would suggest doing just that, as much as you can as soon as you can.
Mick has a wealth of knowledge of that product which trust me is dead useful in the build.
Maybe also think of things that are not great cost but are buggers to get like headlights (although I think they are being remade), etc
 

Neil

Supporter
As to your question about ordering parts, I'd suggest ordering as many kit options as you can right now. Things change and companies go out of business or revise things when suppliers can no longer deliver parts. I've known people who have ordered "basic kits" (not GT40s), intending to order supplemental kits as they would be needed but found out later that the company was either out of business or didn't have what they needed to complete their car. They were stuck.
 
The ZFQ is out of production and no date for another. One of our members in the NW has run a 427ci with 500ft.lbs through a Porsche G50 for years without it breaking. It has eaten a few different clutches and ripped the centre out of some. It is low speed torque that will break the box. The car has very wide 17" tyres but will still spin them up in the dry very easily. Even with a mid engine configuration with more weight on the rear ( especially with the extra weight of a 351 block) than a Cobra a certain amount of right foot traction control will be needed. Two tyres will only transmit a certain amount of torque to the tarmac. The Avons are pretty gtippy but will have limits.
The Avon 295s will fit a 12" wheel but 11" might be a less of a stretch.
Maybe start looking for a good pre '75 351 block (if planning IVA) and a good Porsche box.
Cheers
Mike

I’ve found an 80’s Siamese SVO 9.2” block that will likely be using - I know it’ll have to go through 3.5% emissions but as I’m going to run EFI it should be fine, especially with sequential fuelling, COP and multiple maps on ECU. I’d have loved a pre 75 block but nothing strong enough that it splitting wouldn’t be on my mind every time I use it.

I have seen a few running the 295/50’s on 12’s, they seem to look like they fit fine however I’ve never personally run 295’s on anything bigger than 11’s before (although they were 30 profile).

With the power I’m looking to run I think the 4 speed 930 makes the most sense - less gear changes and longer ratios which will make it more drivable I think. I have friends who have v good relationships with Quaife so if they do bring something back out maybe I could get a better deal - time shall tell.

I am planning to buy as much as I can before SGT is officially handed over. Prices will also increase post take over too.

Thanks for the advise gents, all is welcome!
 
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