A couple SL-C questions from a new guy

[Erik Johnson]

Well I thought I chime in here regarding the transaxle options.

There are many, and as you have been on the GTM site from time to time you will already know that.

Be selective when it comes to who you go with for your transaxle. I say this only due to the fact that the company that you chose can make all the difference in the world.

I am certainly not the only option out there, and I will also put forward that I am not always the least expensive option out there too, but we do a great many Porsche transaxles for these types of applications, and we have a very good reputation for not only putting out a quality product, but also standing behind what we do here.

I would be happy to discuss your options with you and help you in any way possible to make the best purchase for your build.

I am always available, even on the weekends to help.

Give me a call when you have some time and I will be happy to discuss in detail what your options are and what those options will cost.

Warmest Regards and happy building.

Erik Johnson
Carquip Sales
(303) 443-1343 ext 2 work
(720) 980-9407 cell

 

[Doc Kaler]

Here is the link to the Rennsport Systems site:

Welcome to Rennsport Systems, Porsche Performance Products for the 21st Century

Nice over-view of the Porsche transaxles.

 

[Howard Jones]

Here's my 2c's. If I had 10 grand to spend on the power train. Engine and gearbox, etc. I would put 7.5K into the gearbox etc. and the remainder into a engine that lends itself to be upgraded/rebuilt later such as a 351SBF or 350SBC, maybe even a LS series Chevy.

I will never ever build another mid engine sports prototype without limited slip, ever. By far the best and most performance enhancing upgrade I did on my GT40. When you get to 400HP in a 2200 pound car it is, without a doubt, necessary. One wheel drive mid engine cars with a lot of power is just a waste of money. You will spend all of the time sideways and the miatia's will be passing you at will.

I've said this so many times on this forum that I wonder if people think I'm selling gearboxes, but the entire car is built around the gearbox. It is the most difficult component to change later and the most expensive. Mounts, half-shafts, clutch, flywheel, TO bearing, on and on. What it would cost to change from a Audi to a Porsche after the fact would have paid for a 450HP SB (you pick the maker Ford or Chevy)

So do the gearbox correct the first time. Don't forget to install the clutch that will work with the final power you will end up with.

If you are wondering, I've put my money where my mouth is. See Build thread SLC-24 Howard Jones.

So a nice G50 with a taller 1st and 2nd, LSD, and strengthening mods in front of a American SB is the most bang for the buck without a doubt.

 

[Pete]

This is what I found regarding skip welding and why.

Skip Welding
Unevenly distributed heat causes distortion and warping, which in turn wreaks havoc on parts that theoretically fit together. To minimize warping, distribute the heat as evenly as possible. You can accomplish this by using a skip welding technique.
For example, let's weld a 2 x 2 ft. piece of 18 ga. stainless steel to repair the side of a tank. Start by making a 1-in. long weld. Skip 6 in. and make another 1-in. long weld. Continue to work your way around the plate's circumference, welding 1 in. out of every 6 in. You may have heard of this as a 1" on 6" weld. After you've traveled around once, make your next 1-in. long weld 3 in. from the first weld. Continue to place the second set of welds between the ones you made on the first pass, and so on until you achieve the integrity desired.
The same technique holds true for welding linear parts. If the metal starts to warp or pull to one side, solve this by: increasing the distance skipped between welds; welding at the beginning, middle and end of the piece, then repeating the sequence; or welding on alternate sides of the joint.

Pete