Alex's SLC build thread

[Alex]

They process the order and ship in about a week. I think their order minimum is $30. They do a good job with 16 gauge stainless. The attached pic shows 10 pieces total and I think it was around $40…

that's really good! it barely the price of the material

 

[Scott Womble]

let see what i get when i receive my emergency brake from RCR. if not good, that might be going this direction.

Just got the new duel EPB system from Bill. Has a nice interior switch which will work well flush mounted in the center console..

 

[Alex]

I have done some work but not posted much lately.
One one the big things is that I found my transaxle (gallardo graziano with 20k miles).

I am working on fitting it in my SLC but as usually nothing is working …


Is it possible that I got the wrong mount on the chassis where the adapter plate goes?
The holes distance is different between the adapter plates and the brackets.


but also the transaxle looks really low at the front so it is at an angle seating on the rear transversal bar on the chassis higher than the front.


I looked as some other picture of graziano installation and it looks like the mount bracket is angling up when mine looks horizontal

Anybody has an idea?

 

[Joel K]

Alex,

Mine lined up exactly the same way. I was told by Bill’s predecessor Kim to leave the k-brace off the car and loosely assemble the rear mounts to the chassis and trans adapter plate and slowly tighten everything up.

I absolutely did not like that idea since it would force the chassis to spread out which I definitely did not want to do. I made new mounts, but for some other reasons. To move the engine back and raise it up slightly for the LT4 engine.

A more recent customer, I forgot who had the same issue and they had the wrong brackets for a different trans.

I would double check with Bill that you have the correct brackets. If they can’t supply brackets that fit any better you could either slot the holes a bit or weld up the holes and re-drill. I would do the later.

 

[Alex]

Thank you Joel. I already emailed Bill, hope I get a response quickly.
I could re-drill the holes, but something is wrong with the transaxle position, I am pretty confident the front is too low.
Knowing someone else had the wrong bracket, I hope this is my problem

 

[ChrisNebraska]

Thank you Joel. I already emailed Bill, hope I get a response quickly.
I could re-drill the holes, but something is wrong with the transaxle position, I am pretty confident the front is too low.
Knowing someone else had the wrong bracket, I hope this is my problem

Hey Alex, many of us have had the same issue.. I can tell you that Bill is going to same the same thing that we all were told, that the tabs are correct. I used two 2"x4"s and jack to spread the chassis a 1/4" or so, until the both bolts would fit. I have pics somewhere, i'll see if i can find them.

 

[Alex]

so I got the wrong bracket, Bill will ship the good one. Let's see if I need to do anything with the right one, hopefully not! But I will definitely get everything lose to assemble if as advised by Bill and see how it goes

 

[Frank Clark]

+1 to round head bolt. I also had to trim the hood flange area down on mine quite a bit:

Those bolts/nuts will cut a tire... ask me how I know

I ended up using T nuts and flush cutting the bolts.

 

[Alex]

I finished to weld the floor under the fuel tank and I am working on the fuel system. I was wondering if there is any reason nobody mounted the swirl pot beside the tank like this (this is approximates position)?

 

[Alex]

Fuel tank and floor completed

 

[Kurt Hoffman]

I finished to weld the floor under the fuel tank and I am working on the fuel system. I was wondering if there is any reason nobody mounted the swirl pot beside the tank like this (this is approximates position)?
View attachment 153158View attachment 153159View attachment 153160View attachment 153161

Alex,

When I recently replaced my fuel pumps I moved my swirl pot to the same place you show. I guess I should have showed it to you when I was over the other weekend. I have the swirl pump there and the pumps are mounted on a plate bolted up from below so I can drop it to replace them (which I hopefully will not need to do again for a long time).

 

[Alex]

thank you Kurt. That's funny because during my research I looked at your build and it was showing it outside the tank area and I couldn't find someone who did it and I was wondering why nobody used that lost space!

 

[Ken Roberts]

I would recommend pressurizing the fuel tank at this point before mounting it for the last time and soap testing for leaks. A few of us have found leaks at the welded seams.

I would also recommend using this pipe dope on any NPT threads that are continually immersed in fuel. It's specifically meant for ethanol blended fuel such as E10 or E85. https://fedpro.com/products/gasoila®-e-seal-thread-sealant

 

[Alex]

I actually did some time ago and found a leak .
Thanks for the tip on the sealant, that's something I was wondering.
Any advice for the hose size? RCR kit uses 2 sizes: 10 and 6. But not sure from the tank up to where use the size 10? And the return to the tank need 10 too or everything is with 6 after?
I found this on the forum, byt there is 10 hoses, 8 hoses and 6 hoses and it doesn't match the RCR kit (6 and 10 and fittings count)

 

[Ken Roberts]

In my opinion the safest and easiest fuel delivery system is the "in the tank" module. The fuel pump sits in a can inside the tank. The can is always full and overflowing (no matter what the fuel level is inside the tank "unless completely empty"). The regulator is at the top of the can in the tank (internal). The filter is internal as well. The fuel stays cooler since only one fuel line just dead heads to the engine. Less chance of a fuel line leaking and risk of fire. Much quieter than 2 external pumps. You can get really fancy (like most OEM cars now) and run a PWM fuel pump with in-line fuel pressure sensor. That way the fuel pump runs slower in city traffic and then speeds up as demand increases. The pump lasts longer and runs cooler.

Lots of current builders are modifying their tanks to run this type of setup now.

The worst thing you can do is run with the swirl tank in the engine compartment. Glad to see you want it next to the tank. I think a 10AN fuel hose is kinda large. A 8AN hose is equal to 1/2". I would think a 8AN from the tank to the low pressure pump would be fine. I would also run 8AN from the swirl tank back to the fuel tank. You don't want the swirl tank to pressurize otherwise you risk fuel back pressure reaching the regulator and affecting the pressure of the fuel being fed to the engine. All other lines should be fine at 6AN unless you have really high HP.

Also I think the "pre" filter should be before the low pressure pump to protect it from possible debris in the tank.

 

[Alex]

I love the idea Ken, but it is much more complicated (new tank or modification...).
thank you for the advice for the line, and i had the same thought on the filter, it makes more sense!

 

[Kyle]

Different opinion here. I’d keep it simple. Ditch the swirl, elevate the right side of the tank by a 1/4” and draw with a simple inline GSL392. That tank is a pain in the ass to access and more lines are more weak points. AN6 will support 600hp

 

[Alex]

I would use a Weldon A600 external pump - I use these guys in all my builds - supports up to 800hp, minimal amp draw (like 15amp at max flow, so you don't need a fuel pump controller), fantastic reliability.

Weldon Racing’s Store is the place to purchase our complete line

Weldon’s Store offers immediate worldwide shipment of our complete line of Fuel Pumps, Regulators & Fuel Filters

www.weldonracing.com

When possible I prefer to run -10 line from the tank to the pump, then -8 from the pump onwards, but -8 would also work from the tank forward (i'm using -8 on a 900RWhp f/i'd gen 2 viper without any issues)

Personally i like to keep the return line the same size as the fuel line at the rails (so -8) but you could theoretically go down to -6 if you wanted on the return.

 

[Alex]

here are some pictures of my installations, i hope it doesn't interfere with something in the future lol
I am still missing some connectors as the original design didn't fit and install some hoses.
What is the best place for the pressure regulator?


preparation of the bracket:

final installation