Alpine ILX-007 - Possible SLC Stereo

PeteB

GT40s Supporter
FYI - I bought this for my daily driver. I had no idea how short it was until I took it out of the box, but at only 3" deep, it could work in a SLC:





 
Yup, the ILX-007 came out late last year. A friend of mine put one in his BMW 3 series due to the minimal clearance there as well.

According to my measurements, it should fit in the center binnacle of the dash. If I had to do it over again, this is the unit I would install.

It also has a backup camera function.
 
Perhaps you could install the DashCommand IOS app on your iphone and then have that displayed on the head unit via Apple CarPlay; also setup the camera as an 'other' instead of 'rear' that might allow it to be used as a pseudo rear view mirror that works all the time instead when shifting into reverse.
 

PeteB

GT40s Supporter
Dash Command won't work, it's not a Carplay app. For the backup/rear camera, you could wire the backup signal to a toggle switch and turn it on whenever you want.
 

PeteB

GT40s Supporter
Got the unit installed in my Pontiac G8 this week. I'm very happy with it. The Apple CarPlay apps all work great. I highly recommend this unit. Warning though, if you're not an iPhone user, don't bother, because CarPlay is the only thing the ILX-007 does.
 
I wonder if the backup function could be used as a rear view vice just backup function as well. :idea:
My Freightliner has an override switch for the backup function (have had multiple radios in the truck and all work fine with this). So it's tied into the backup circuit per normal, but has a switch to 'force it' as well. Just be sure you use diodes as needed to stop the switch from turning on your backup lights.

Use it all the time to check on my trailer. Radio keeps playing, so as long as you are not a channel surfer, it's no issue.
 
Anyone plugged into or follow the audio industry know if alpine or competitors will be releasing new units for the holidays? Thinking I would like to purchase one of these for my SLC during Black Friday but not if a newer version is planned.

Pete - has it been a pita to have to plug your phone in? I think going wireless is one of the features I want to see most on this.
 

PeteB

GT40s Supporter
Pete - has it been a pita to have to plug your phone in? I think going wireless is one of the features I want to see most on this.
Personal preference I guess, but it doesn't bother me. Any head unit that has Apple Carplay requires the phone to be plugged in for the CarPlay apps to work.
 
I've purchased this Alpine unit. I'm going to attempt to retro fit it to the SLC. The pic shows how my current rear view monitor is installed between the dash and the centre console, the dimesnions of the Alpine will allow me to fit it in this space; moving the Alpine unit towards the gear stick to allow enough depth. My existing camara should connect to the Alpine.
I just need to decide on amp & speakers and their location.

It would seem the sub of choice (I think Will Cambell used it) is the Lightweight 6.5 inch JL subwoofer mounted in the passenger footwell. is it this model:
JL Audio 6W3v3-4 W3v3 Series 6.5" 4-ohm Subwoofer

I remember Ricardo used a Focal Amp but not sure which one other than it was small and light. It may have been model FD 4.350 4-CH amp?
Not sure on speaker type or location as yet, need to investigate what room I have.Any suggestions comments are welcomed.
 

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Stu

I also plan on the alpine and I'm right in the middle of wiring. I will very interested on how you wire it up.

Is there an "accessory" mode that will allow us to run the radio with engine off?

Dan
 
I've purchased this Alpine unit. I'm going to attempt to retro fit it to the SLC. The pic shows how my current rear view monitor is installed between the dash and the centre console, the dimesnions of the Alpine will allow me to fit it in this space; moving the Alpine unit towards the gear stick to allow enough depth. My existing camara should connect to the Alpine.
I just need to decide on amp & speakers and their location.

It would seem the sub of choice (I think Will Cambell used it) is the Lightweight 6.5 inch JL subwoofer mounted in the passenger footwell. is it this model:
JL Audio 6W3v3-4 W3v3 Series 6.5" 4-ohm Subwoofer

I remember Ricardo used a Focal Amp but not sure which one other than it was small and light. It may have been model FD 4.350 4-CH amp?
Not sure on speaker type or location as yet, need to investigate what room I have.Any suggestions comments are welcomed.

I used to do competition car stereo years ago, and can let you in on my audio plan. But, if you were just looking for sound, then my plan may be a bit labor intensive for you since your dash is already covered.
 
Dan, The main reason I purchased the Alpine is:
- rear view camera function is compatible with existing camera
- play music whilst driving
- it fits in the space i have available.
To be honest I’ve not even investigated whether it has an ‘accessory’ mode as it wasn’t a concern.
Also, I’m hopless with car audio and will have a professional install it. I will try and get them to provide me with details on how they wire it up.

Scott, Really appreciate the offer, however, as you’ve correctly assumed your install sounds like it might be a little to audiophile for me.
I really just want a sub, a pair of separates and an amp to listen to music on longer drives.
 
Scott
I'd be interested in your stereo plan; I'm real early in my build and would love to include a quality setup in my dash.
The SLC is very tricky since it isn't very wide to get a good stereo separation if speakers are high to bounce off windshield. It may mix too much.
My plan was 6.5" in custom kick pods (plenty of room for them) fully sealed. Point the speaker at the other persons head. So passenger side is pointed towards drivers head, and vice versa.
Tweeters are VERY directional. Placement would really need to be tested, but you would want at the highest point, and widest point possible. Dash top is narrow, so that is out, so best stereo separation will be had if tweeters are placed near the top of the kick panels. They just need to be visible, or a straight line of sight to each one from either passenger or driver. That position will give you the best separation of such a directional speaker. Example-
If tweeters are placed on dash. From drivers head, the left tweeter would be 34" away, and passenger tweeter 46" away. If mounted slightly under dash at top of kick panels, left tweeter would be 43" away, and right tweeter 52" away. You get a wider separation and a closer ratio of them being equal distance away. This is also why you would mount the 6.5"s there too.

In this scenario, the image will be low, since all your speakers are mounted low. So, you fix that with a 4" center channel mounted in center of dash firing up and it will disperse across the windshield. You run a mono signal to this speaker. Some mono signals can favor one channel, so you could also put 2 3"-4" speakers there and run a stereo signal to them. But they need to be right next to eachother in the center.

A good stereo does not mean it is just clear and is loud. You want to close your eyes at a touch higher than the volume of a normal conversation, and have all frequencies at matching levels and the image of the singers voice directly in front of you (not center of car, but in front of each person) with instruments coming from front and sides. Very hard to do, but magic once you get it!! Only way to get this is a center channel. Since speakers are mounted low, you also need to pull the image up to eye level, which it does.

I planned to run a Sundown audio 10" in the passenger footwell.. The enclosure will extend into drivers side a little. They make some nasty little boogers that have upwards of 1" of excursion in a 10"!!! Small packaging, but you will have no shortage of bass and it will shake the car. The 6.5" will be good down to about 150hz in a fully sealed enclosure, but you will be missing out on quite abit of the spectrum and the impact of a live performance. Since sub will be in front of you, there will be no need for tricky time delays needed like with a rear mounted sub.

Rear fill. Not really needed, or wanted in such a small area. Rear speakers are only used to simulate the sound reflection off of walls behind you, like in a real live performance. If you put a speaker behind you, it will be hugely off center (10" and 43" is distance split as explained above) and you will ruin your front image.


Front fill speakers- I have been very impressed with Hertz component speakers. Even their entry level stuff is amasing. Here is what I was looking at-http://www.ebay.com/itm/HERTZ-ESK163L-5-2YR-WRNTY-6-5-450W-CAR-AUDIO-STEREO-COMPONENT-SPEAKERS-SYSTEM-/191892736472?hash=item2cadb2c9d8:g:BeAAAOSwmtJXWdJP
There you get all of your speakers in one shot, and all with the matching passive crossover to run them at the proper frequencies. This will NOT give you individual control over each pair of speakers though for very precise tuning. You will be limited to speaker placement/aiming and a good preamp crossover to even out your highs and lows. That crossover can also be used to create your bass only signal that will feed your sub amp.

For any of your amps, there really is just a few numbers to look for if you want a quality piece of equipment, and yes, amps is where you really want to invest. You want an A/B class amp for your speakers playing full range. Then a D class amp for your sub.
Look for a signal to noise ratio (s/n ratio) in the 100+ range. A dampening factor of 200+. There is no regulation for what can be advertised for wattage, so you cannot go by that.


So, that is the basic set up to have a good sounding stereo. MUCH more that can be done, but really, the SLC is about the worst environment to do much more. SOOOO much ambient noise that you would never be able to get rid of while driving,
 
Thanks Scott; a lot for me to digest; but greatly appreciate the information.

No probs. Ya, that was really just scratching the surface, but tried to be as direct as possible.
Just to sum it up, "speaker placement is more important than speaker quality". Speakers don't blow (most of time) due to a quick overpowering, but more due to amp distortion, hence why a quality amp is a priority if you want it sounding good and clear at higher than normal volumes.
This set up (up to about 1,000 clean watts) would not need any extra batteries and a cheap 200amp alt will work fine.
 
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