Battery Terminal Melting

[DonWheeler]

Hi,

I own GT40 II P/2171. It has a Roush 427SR.

I noticed over the course of a couple weeks that the battery seemed to become weaker and weaker as time went by. Eventually, the battery would not turn-over the engine at all. Upon removing the lid on the battery box, I noticed one portion of the positive battery terminal had melted off. Pictures associated with this thread reflect the melt-down.

This is the second time this has happened. The first time was in 2009. Back then I simply dismissed the issue and replaced the terminal. (Probably the wrong course on action to take at that time.)



I don't understand any thing that goes beyond a simple conventional positive and negative cable connecting to the battery. I am uncertain what the other various wires and connections are for.

The installer did provide an extra red cable from the solenoid (I think) to a terminal point mounted on the frame. I believe this was done so a path to the positive terminal could be accessible without taking off the battery box lid.


I don't know if this is a possible clue, but my vehicle has the ammeter anomoly that pegs hard to the right as various things (example: lights, A/C, wipers) get turned on. I know the "How-To" portion on this web site addresses ways to correct this, even to the extent of replacing the ammeter with a volt meter.

Any thing offered to help me correct this problem will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Don in Maine

 

[Jack Houpe]

Don you have a bad connection in my opinion, I would by a different type battery terminal with a single bolt for the cables to connect. As far as the amp meter, you could change out to a volt meter which is what most of us do or you might try putting a 1000UF electrolytic capacitor in parallel with the terminals of the meter. This should dampen the erratic needle some.

I see where your from and wish I had lobster now.

 

[Seymour Snerd]

Don -- That's a pretty bad wiring job by whoever did it. In particular, the large cable on the left is attached to the battery terminal clamp in a way (bolt too small for hole, big washer trying to make it up) that invites this kind of problem. Since the clamp terminals are made of lead the screws are all in threaded led. It's debatable whether such a fastener situation can be made tight enough to transmit the large currents involved reliably. Also note the slightly rusty bolt being used their; that's another way to create a poor, fire-prone connection. All connection surfaces need to be bright and shiny, and threaded connections should ideally be in clean steel or brass.

Jack's right, I suggest starting with a battery with threaded terminals, not posts, and then getting someone knowledgeable to put correct size terminals and hardware on the end of each terminal, clean the terminals carefully, and fasten them down properly. And I would avoid whoever did that wiring job in the first place.

Also, I'm not clear what the third picture is showing; is that red button some kind of circuit breaker? In any event, in the photo it looks like the red cable is too close to the exhaust pipe; that's a recipe for a fire if the cable touches the pipe and insulation melts.

 

[JohnC]

Don, Jack is on the money. With a high compression big block you're likely to have "several" hundred amps of instantaneous current demand when starting.

IMO, the type of connections that use screw down mechanical clamps would be marginal in your application. Since you probably don't have access to professional hydraulic crimping tools, have a look at Quick Cable's line of solder type battery terminals: Quick Cable: Fusion® Solder Connectors. IIRC, they have some great "How To" videos on their site.

I've used these with good success - but you'll probably need to practice (ruin) a couple before you get the heat & technique just right. Use a "mini" type torch that has an adjustable flame, and make sure you've cleaned the wire well before soldering - I first clean the wire with rosin, then tin the wire before putting the terminal on and soldering the terminal to the wire. I also cover the connection with xtra heavy heat shrink afterward.