I got the brake/clutch lines in place. Now on to the coolant pipes. Does anyone have any pics of the coolant pipes in place and the connections in the front end? I am wanting to see different options for insulating the pipes and for the transition to the radiator (I got the solid pipes from RCR).
Coolant Plumbing
- Thread starter mcfling
- Start date
Michael, if you plan to mount your lift kit pump on the passenger side radiator nose piece; I suggest that you install the pump first before installing the coolant rerun lines. I had to have a custom adapter made to make the transition from the RCR lines into the radiator nose compartment. I just was not comfortable with the bends using flexible line. Pictures can be seen on my build site (“Jimer's Build”).
Yes - fill the pressure tank, I run 50/50, holds maybe 5.5 gallons and I'm not running a shroud, but have upgraded to Maradyne fans with no cooling issues.
To be more specific, I was considering having my pipes extended to bend towards the connection in the foot well and 90 degrees in the engine bay, thus having solid pipe except for the short run to the engine and radiator. Have others down this or am I creating unnecessary expense and effort?
Dave Forster
Supporter
My plumbing is not quite finished, but here is what I have so far.
Solid coolant lines all along the side of the car would be better and I might change over to this, depending on what kind of access is possible in this area once the body is on the car. However, for now at least, flexible stainless steel tubing was used between the end of the solid lines and the radiator.
The maximum length of flexible line that I could find was 4 feet. This is not quite enough to reach from the upper radiator connection on the right side of the car to the long solid line. To bridge the gap, one of the short solid tube lengths supplied by the factory was used, along with a radiator hose elbow sourced from the local auto parts store. On the left side, 4 feet is enough because the radiator connection is at the bottom of the radiator.
The insulation and clamps were supplied by McMaster Carr:
Insulation 4463K128 $4.87/6' McMaster-Carr
Clamps 8863T85 $6.63 for pkg of 3 McMaster-Carr
Solid coolant lines all along the side of the car would be better and I might change over to this, depending on what kind of access is possible in this area once the body is on the car. However, for now at least, flexible stainless steel tubing was used between the end of the solid lines and the radiator.
The maximum length of flexible line that I could find was 4 feet. This is not quite enough to reach from the upper radiator connection on the right side of the car to the long solid line. To bridge the gap, one of the short solid tube lengths supplied by the factory was used, along with a radiator hose elbow sourced from the local auto parts store. On the left side, 4 feet is enough because the radiator connection is at the bottom of the radiator.
The insulation and clamps were supplied by McMaster Carr:
Insulation 4463K128 $4.87/6' McMaster-Carr
Clamps 8863T85 $6.63 for pkg of 3 McMaster-Carr
Attachments
Thanks for the photos guys! A picture is worth 1000 words. I am going to have my pipes extended after mocking up the extensions with PVC. Dave… I noticed you don't show a shroud. Are you going without one?
Dave Forster
Supporter
If you mean a shroud around the radiator, then no - I was not planning to install one. However, I was thinking of installing a curved aluminum panel behind the radiators to smoothly direct the air up to the exit, although that may or may not be required. It would keep more of the warm air off the foot box and dehydrator, though . . .
I know there have been some discussions about whether a shroud is a benefit or a hindrance in cooling, with some people reporting that adding a shroud actually reduces cooling efficiency. Of course the fans come with a very small shroud around them already.
I live in Houston, where summertime temps around 100 F are not uncommon. If it turns out that cooling is not sufficient, a shroud will be added to the to-do list.
I know there have been some discussions about whether a shroud is a benefit or a hindrance in cooling, with some people reporting that adding a shroud actually reduces cooling efficiency. Of course the fans come with a very small shroud around them already.
I live in Houston, where summertime temps around 100 F are not uncommon. If it turns out that cooling is not sufficient, a shroud will be added to the to-do list.
Dave Forster
Supporter
I'm curious: For those guys who have had solid coolant pipes welded up, what did they cost? Has anyone looked into a bulk order? Even with solid pipe, there are going to be potentially leaky connections at both ends, but it would be nice to keep the leaks where they are easier to get at on a finished car . . .
I know a few performance shops in the Houston area that charge $160-$175 an hour for welding.
BTW, I have a tubing bead tool that I can lend out for the cost of two-way shipping. You just need a sturdy bench vise to attach the tool. Cam and I used aluminum tubing and had a retired master welder (certified for nuclear power plants) do the TiG welding (I'm not that good at TIG yet to trust my work on thin walled coolant pipes!)
Doc had graciously loaned me his tube beading tool some time ago. I purchased several lengths of 16ga. Aluminum tubing bends from Columbia River Mandrel Bending. Used cardboard mailing tubes to join the sections (and marked them), TIG welded after tack welding first and confirming the overall fit. Pressure tested to way beyond what was necessary. Turned out very nice too.
I also was just not pleased with the potential of having to resolve leaks inside the body work at some point so I just ordered 2 90 degree and 4 45 degree 1.5" stainless bends from Columbia river and will have them welded locally.
For those that went with aluminum for these pipes, why did you not reuse the pipes from RCR?
For those that went with aluminum for these pipes, why did you not reuse the pipes from RCR?
We used to supply aluminum coolant tubes but we had some fatigue and cracks appearing where the ends of the tube were beaded...so we switched to SS and have been supplying SS for the last few years with zero issues....
Kernie.
If you are removing a particular hose that would be the best place as you will not be disturbing any other connections in the system.
I highly recommend buying a vacuum fill adapter ...inexpensive and very good at filling the system whilst removing any trapped air.
UVIEW 550500 AirLift II Economy Cooling System Refiller available from Amazon for $75
If you are removing a particular hose that would be the best place as you will not be disturbing any other connections in the system.
I highly recommend buying a vacuum fill adapter ...inexpensive and very good at filling the system whilst removing any trapped air.
UVIEW 550500 AirLift II Economy Cooling System Refiller available from Amazon for $75
