My quote in 2021 was $15,000.00 for 2112 sq feet. I so far I have not done it. I am looking into Racedeck flooring, but that was around $11000.00 also for commercial stuff. Still undecided.
Regards Brian
Regards Brian
How easy is it to broom sweep the floor given the chip surface results in an irregular surface? Specifically, are you able to sweep up metal filings/chips easily? Given I do a lot of fabrication in my shop, I end up with lots of filings (die grinder with carbide bit type filings), drill swarf, and metal chips from the bandsaw on the floor. I'm concerned that this type of small metal chip will get caught up on the irregular paint chip surface and be hard to get up.My floor was 1600sq feet and was $6500 before pandemic and with the rise of cost of the resins the last 2 years $11,000 is not out of the ball park.
Mine is a tan basecoat that then had flakes cast in to rejection, then scraped and topcoated clear and it is really tough, hides dirt well and the downside is if you drop something small on the floor it can be hard to find. Here in the south it has also stopped the wet floor cycles from the warm and cool fronts that pass thru frequently this time of year.
It wasn't loss of oil pressure but sustained 4,000 rpm for about 20 minutes or so. The car has a Ford Motorsport X302 crate motor in it. All in all, a good motor for the price producing about 300 HP. It does have a Canton 7 quart oil pan so I wasn't really worried about an oiling issue. The real issue is the 5 speed with no overdrive in it and 3.50 rear end gears. 80 mph equals 4,000 rpm. I've spun the engine up to 6,000 rpm on occasion but it's only until a gear change and it's right back in the happy zone again.Curious what led to the loss of oil pressure and the spun bearing in the Cobra?
I don't see why not. I'd try to get up any oil/grease/coolant from the concrete floor as part of preparation. You might want to surface grind the open areas to maximize sealer penetration.Good compromise. One thing that occurred to me is can that solution be done after moving in without moving bolted-down benches, drill presses, lathe, and mill. Maybe super clean the floor around stuff and apply the sealer ???
Howard: I don't have the complete information to answer your question as I had someone else do the job for me. I seem to remember seeing 4 or 5 cases (each holding 2 gallon cans) in the garbage pile and my floor is about 1,900 sq ft after subtracting out the walls. The product data sheet says, "Coverage for the SC-65 is approximately 200 to 650 square feet per gallon. Coverage will vary based on the application methods, substrate conditions and overall desired finish." On my floor, they applied with long knap roller which I'd think would result in a fairly rich application on the lower end of the coverage scale. I'd think using an airless sprayer and over other product would be on the upper end of that scale. My guess would be to expect something like 200 to 300 sq ft per gallon but that's purely a guess. Oh yeah, they told they were going to do 2 coats (I'm guessing first coat would really soak in) so that would also put it lower on coverage scale.What do you think 1500 Sq/Ft would cost for just the sealer? Looks like about 140 bucks per gallon. How many sq/ft per gallon did you get?
If you are in AZ, you are welcome to visit me just SW of Tucson and see what I built.The Miura project continues to be in a "hold pattern" due to our move from CA to AZ. The bad news part of the move is that there is less garage space at our new home than I had prior. The good news is that we have plenty of land space and no harsh regulations preventing the construction of a "dream workshop detached garage". The main constraint I will have is on the funding side as I don't want to blow all my "recreation funds" on the garage and not have enough left over for the Miura and other car projects.
From a high level, I'm thinking about something like a 50 foot by 30 foot structure with 14 foot walls and a decently pitched roof. I want plenty of height inside for hoist use and a mezzanine in a portion of the structure for storage. The main purpose of the structure will be a workshop. It's not intended to be used for finished vehicle storage and display. I'll have other garage space under the house for finished/running vehicle parking. I want multiple work areas that can be specialized for assembly, fabrication, welding, machining, and maintenance. So far, I've only identified a location on the property and am about to embark on the building permit process. So the type of input that will be most helpful at this stage is the big picture stuff that needs to be included with the set of plans needed for initial permitting.
So my question out to you guys that have had the opportunity to work or experience a workshop/garage of this type, what insights and/or opinions do you have about what you liked in the workshop design/features and what you did not like? For example:
So please share your input on workshop design choices and wishes.
- Should a toilet and sink type restroom be included?
- Is a pit in the floor worth the time/expense or is that likely to consume floor space that could be better utilized otherwise?
- How many doors and what size doors? How important is it to place doors to accommodate drive-thru for things like trailers?
- Is it useful to build in a small counter top area for organizing paper work, accessing a computer, etc? If so, should it be walled in like a little office or just open to the structures interior?
- Am I thinking too big or too small on the structure footprint? Home building cars is my hobby but it is just a hobby and I don't intend to run a business at home. I want to "right size" the workshop such that a couple of years down the road I don't feel like I've under or over built the workshop. I do have some large tools/machines like a mill, lathe, power hammer, English wheel, engine hoist, bead roller, Magnabend break, welder, etc. My tool/machine wish list includes a 4 post hoist, Pullmax, box/pan break, and stomp shear. Of those, I consider the hoist the highest priority and the others not as important to obtain.
- Do the structural materials make a difference in workshop use? Does a stick built or block built or metal building make a difference? I am located in north/central Arizona at 5,100 feet elevation where average winter daytime temperatures are in the 50's and summer temperatures in the low 90's. Winter nighttime temps can be in the teens and it does snow here. Last week we had 8 inches of snow but that melted off in a few days.
Yes, I'm in AZ but up north in Prescott so still a decent drive away. If I have something that takes me down near Tucson, I'll definitely give you a shout. I always like to meet people in person and see the results of their hard work.If you are in AZ, you are welcome to visit me just SW of Tucson and see what I built.
"...what I built" refered to my workshop but you are welcome to check out my car as well.Yes, I'm in AZ but up north in Prescott so still a decent drive away. If I have something that takes me down near Tucson, I'll definitely give you a shout. I always like to meet people in person and see the results of their hard work.