distributor replacement for ECU engine

Does anyone know where I can find a "plug" that can take the place of the stock distributor? I'm installing an Electromotive ECU with direct ignition and have no other need for a distributor except for the fact that the distributor has a drive shaft that drives the oil pump. So I need a distributor with the top chopped off it and the bottom left alone so it can hold the gear and drive shaft for the oil pump. Gnome sane? Is there anything like this on the market or do I get out the hack saw and heli-arc and make my own?

Thanks in advance, Mark

 

So here's my answer. Holley makes a sync pulse distributor that can be used. It has the advantage of sending a sync pulse to the ECU which would allow the ECU to differentiate between the two cylinders on TDC and send a spark only to the cylinder on its compression stroke. This instead of the trigger wheel only method which allows the ECU to spark both cylinders at TDC essentially wasting a spark.

Alternatively, Ford makes a distributor plug that sends a sync pulse for use on the Explorer which has direct ignition. I have to find out if this will work with the 351.

Hope this helps anyone trying the same thing I am.

 

[Neal]

Like this?

]

These folks overview conversion from a distributor based system to a Ford-based DIS system...

DIS Article

[ July 19, 2002: Message edited by: Neal ]

 

I'll bet that's it Neal. Is that a 302?

 

[Gary Gibbs]

If you do not want or need the sync pulses. It is easy to chop off a stock distributor.

1.) Remove all of the extra stuff up top (e.g. weights, springs, etc.)
2.) Carefully remove the roll pin in the gear and take out the shaft.
3.) Part off the top of the distributor where you would like it to finish up using a lathe (any local machine shop can do this). Must be above the stock shaft bearing.
4.) Make aluminium cover for top.

I machined mine off at the level of the plate that bolts down inside the distributor and then used those bolt holes to attach the new cover.

 

I have access to the distributor Neil posted. I also have the correct balancer for the 302 explorer with the crank trigger sprocket. My question is how does this set up actual work? What else would I need and how would it hook up to my EMS (Wolf 3D).
Hope this doesn't come across to stupid but... well hell with it, I only know the old school ways but want all the goods of todays tech.
Thanks,
John

 

[Robert Logan]

Mark,

BE CAREFUL !!!!

I do not know the EMS you have mentioned but I have spent some time setting up a distributor less system on my Roaring Forties GT40's. The system we use needs a crank triger and a "syncro" trigger. The reason is that the crank trigger will tell the EMS where the crank is on its revolution but can not tell it on which stroke it is on (compression or exhaust). This is done from the camshaft and the photograph in the post above shows this "syncro" or camshaft trigger. We use the same one in the photo, a Ford part and we have coil packs.

Good luck,

Robert

 

Robert,
I have the crank pully for your serpentine set up and now will purchase the "distributor.
Please contact me and help me with the rest of the set up. As you know I have the Wolf 3D EMS you recommended, and am using one of Gordon's engines. All together this should be fun.
Thanks,
John

 

[Neal]

John,
The sensor that fits in the distributor is used to determine camshaft position. This in conjunction with the crank trigger should be sufficient for the Wolf setup. This is consistent with Robert's comments.

 

[Dave Wharran]

Mark,
I'm running a Haltec EFI system that uses direct fired ignition, so I too didn't need the distributor other than to turn the oil pump. As others have posted, I just removed the "guts" of the distributor and cut the shaft off. I machined off the top of the housing and made a billet cover out of aluminum. My engine uses magnets imbedded in the flywheel and a single Hall switch for both home and trigger signals. Work's great!
You can just make out whats left of the distrubutor in this picture.
Dave

 

[Robert Logan]

John,

I recommend MoTeC as an EMS because we have more than 5 years experience with it and never a problem that we have not been able to solve.

The latest MoTeC M800 system we use has over 50 (fifty) man years in the development and implementation of the software and their reputation throughout the world is second to none.

The latest Porsche GT3 Cup cars are being supplied from the factory with MoTeC dashes etc.. The major problem is the 20% / 80% rule which is just NEVER good enough.

I must state that MoTeC's MD built the factory that we occupy for me and that Richard Bendell (ex. MD now Chairman)is a good friend of mine but irrespective of this our proffesional relationship is based on the fact that they produce excellent products and although the prices are high the quality is also high. The old saying about getting what you pay for is very true with MoTeC.

I can ONLY recommend MoTeC and this I do with ease.

Best wishes,

Robert

 

What do you guys think. I have all the pieces needed to go with the DIS setup (crank trigger and cam sensor w/4 twin coils) or go with the standard distributor setup. Which would you do. I have never used a DIS setup so don't truely know the advantages. I believe it sounds easy enough to pull off and should give the most accurate spark. On the other hand the old school way is tried and true. If using 4 twin coils, where would be the best mounting location be for them, on the block or on the chasis possible infront of the engine,or 2 on each side? Where would the best ground come from?
John

 

Mark,
I have one out of a 1997 explore w/a 302.
I problably will skip using it for a sensor and just keep it in for the oil pump.
I will only be using the crank sensor then run it to 4 twin coil packs and off we go.
John

 

John,

Spark waster!

I'm toying with the idea to use the sync pulse off the cam position sensor like you have to allow me to spark only on the cylinder that's on the compression stroke. Eight coils could get ugly though. What did the OEM Ford DIS use? Did you see it? I wonder if it's a 4 pair set-up (like yours) or eight individual coils. The V-6 in my Ford pickup has a coil pack that has 6 distinct coils.

Sorry about the spark waster comment.

Mark

 

Mark,
What I've seen on the V8 Fords where 2 coil packs with 4 posts on each.
The reason I'm going with the set up I am is because I have a Wolf 3D computer and it won't read the crank and cam sensors together. Atleast that's what I can gather. The newer version (4D) can use both but that's a different story all together. It was suggested that you should use 1 ignition module per coil/coil pack. I'm actually going to go with 86-91 Mazda RX7 leading coils. They have built in modules and have a nice hot spark. Whatever floats your boat though, this set up is just fine for me. Quick, easy and cheap. All the qualities I like.
John

 

The latest news on the FORD distributor replascement for DIS engines. The small-ish cam position sensor that runs in the 302 should work in a 351. The reason the distributor numbers are different beteeen the 302 & 351 is the 351 distributor is longer on the outside of the engine to accomodate the taller deck height. Since the cam sensor only sticks up an inch or two this should not make any difference.

John, what cam sensor are you using?

 

Going through some old posts and I find this one needs an update.

The info from Ford was incorrect WRT the Ford sync fitting 302s and 351s. Plus there is another issue at hand.

1. The 302 distributor hole is 1.50" dia. while the 351 is 1.56" dia. Thanks Ford. I have a 302 sync on my shelf now.

2. The Ford solution has a .25" oil pump drive. Been told this is a major weak link and that a high pressure oil pump can twist or break the oil pump drive.

What I did find is an MSD sync which works but there was still an issue there too. MSD expects you to be buying this unit for use with their ECU system and it took a month to convince them to send me the proper termination kit. Full do-it-yourself instructions arrvied with the term kit.

One more issue is the drive gear. It comes with a cast gear which doesn't work with roller tappet cams. You'll either need a steel or bronze gear. The bronze gear needs to be replaced every 10K or 20K miles but it saves wear on the cam.

The MSD unit also accepts the standard high perf oil pump drive.