This weekend I will have a look at a 289 hp
The engine is already out of the car
I am now looking for info what to check and how to identify if it is a original one
Are thre any athor things to look out for ?
Apart from casting numbers look for, screw in rocker studs, a cast built up area around the valve spring seats, twin point Ford/Autolite Distributor, a thin counterweight on the rear face of the crankshaft timing gear in front of #1 main cap , 3/8" con-rod bolt's(9/16" hex), pushrod guide slots instead of round holes in heads, fully machined f/r faces of #1 thru #4 main brg caps, and a front damper with a full outer ring ( counterweight in hub ) approx 1.5+" wide and only three bolts for mounting pulley. Cast exh manifolds if still with the motor will look like a Semi-Header. Camshaft was solid lifter so lash clearance of approx 0.020" should be present.
Get ALL of these features and any genuine p/n# that Im sure other members will give you and you will be one lucky punter.
So I would have to assume that a casting number of C6AE-6015-C. 6C3 would only indicate a standard unit ???
For my own info (and please excuse my ignorance), what makes these HP units so special and are they really that rare??
Sorry to deviate from the thread topic a bit but my next question is, what would be the order of ranking / preference between a 289HP, 302 Mexican and a 302 Boss ??
My main interest in each configuration is the block and crank specifically.
Thanks for all the reactions
Saturday I went for a visit to see the engine
The engine was taken apart so we could have a good look to it`s condition
Casting nr was C5AE and I found enough evidence to see that it is a original 289 HP .
BUT We found some very deep markings in two cylinders it looked like it has been corroding for some time
We think it needs to be rebored to about +1mm (Is this possible )
There was also damage on the crankshaft at least on one tap
Now the big question What is a reasonable price for a engine in this condition
The only part missing is the carburator
As with all original Ford small blocks the less you have to bore it the better. If the remaining cyls are in reasonable condition wear wise use them as a guide for your rebore size & have the two damaged cylinders sleeved. Do not skimp on the sleeving job and hunt down someone who will go to the trouble of stepping the sleeve at the bottom for a bullet proof job. I hope that the two damaged cyls are not side by side on the same bank as this can cause a weak area at the bottom of the cyl/main web area. Have the block ,heads & crank ' hot tanked' & have a good look at all areas [ threads,lifter bores,main webs valve seats etc for cracks or damage ] before doing any actual repair work etc.]
Cannot guide you on price, depends on how much you want to pay for originality I suppose.
How bad was the damage to the crank? I assume you mean there is some scoring on one of the bearing journals....?? If the scoring is deep enough that you can actually feel it with a fingernail then you'll need to have the crank ground for undersized bearings. Also, if there is discoloration (blue) of the crank near these journals then a) you know it got hot and the crank may be substantially out of true and require some significant machining, and b) plan on a line bore of the bottom end.
As mentioned above, 1mm is about 40 thousands - that's a lot to take off the cylinder wall, particularly for a SBF. Frankly, this engine sounds like an expensive proposition (unless you're a machinist yourself) to get it right, and in the end you'll have an engine that likely can't be rebuilt again thereafter due to the magnitude of the cylinder boring. I wouldn't pay more than a couple hundred dollars for this engine....