When doing the install on these cars or any car for that matter there are a number of electrical connections that need to be made. Some basic guidelines are presented here to prevent future frustrations when trying to troubleshoot electrical problems. The techniques described here are not written in stone and some may not agree 100% with certain suggestions or may even feel that it is gross overkill to go to this much effort to do the electrical work to this level. However, if you want your car to be reliable for decades and not spend more time chasing problems than you spend driving then you may want to heed these suggestions.
First, to the extent that you can, solder every electrical connection. Butt connectors, crimp connectors and the like are notorious for getting loose or corroding causing failures or intermittent operation. I use crimp connectors but I crimp them only so I can hold them in place while I solder them. As a general practice, you should always apply a piece of heat shrink tubing over the connector also. This helps prevent dirt or water from getting into the connection and provides a strain relief. Without this relief, even a good quality connection can break off at the point where the wire enters the connector over time.
Use a common ground. Briefly it simply means don't have ground wires randomly connected all over the car where it is convenient. Try to run all your ground wires to one or two locations at each end of the car.
Use a dielectric grease on all connections. This prevents galvanic corrosion (caused by dissimilar metals in contact with each other), keeps water out, and in general makes a contact that will be trouble free (assuming you did everything else right) for decades. This grease is available at auto parts stores, and hardware stores. It comes in small tubes and is very inexpensive. It is a good idea to apply this grease to the bases/sockets of light bulbs like turn signals etc. These always get wet and corrode over time. Dielectric grease will keep them like new for years.
When running a long series of wires, I advise NOT using wire ties. I prefer, the split, corrugated wire loom tubing. The reason for this is that it makes it much easier to make a change or run another wire later. It also keeps the wires clean. Wire ties are great for short runs or bundling things up under the dash etc.
On parts like the alternator use quick disconnect connectors. This allows you to do service without cutting wires. Use quality connectors however. Jegs sells a kit with 1, 2 , 3, 4, 5 and 6 wire connectors for about $80 and can be used all over the car where you need to make a connection but don't want a permanent splice. Again solder the male and female pins to the wires rather than just a crimp. Also fill the plug with dielectric grease.
ALWAYS tie loose wires down. Keep them in tight bundles away from things that move, get hot or can chafe. Use rubber grommets when running a wire through a hole in a bulkhead or panel. Use Adel clamps (“P” clamps) to tie down looms and large bundles
See the photos below that illustrate the points discussed above.
First, to the extent that you can, solder every electrical connection. Butt connectors, crimp connectors and the like are notorious for getting loose or corroding causing failures or intermittent operation. I use crimp connectors but I crimp them only so I can hold them in place while I solder them. As a general practice, you should always apply a piece of heat shrink tubing over the connector also. This helps prevent dirt or water from getting into the connection and provides a strain relief. Without this relief, even a good quality connection can break off at the point where the wire enters the connector over time.
Use a common ground. Briefly it simply means don't have ground wires randomly connected all over the car where it is convenient. Try to run all your ground wires to one or two locations at each end of the car.
Use a dielectric grease on all connections. This prevents galvanic corrosion (caused by dissimilar metals in contact with each other), keeps water out, and in general makes a contact that will be trouble free (assuming you did everything else right) for decades. This grease is available at auto parts stores, and hardware stores. It comes in small tubes and is very inexpensive. It is a good idea to apply this grease to the bases/sockets of light bulbs like turn signals etc. These always get wet and corrode over time. Dielectric grease will keep them like new for years.
When running a long series of wires, I advise NOT using wire ties. I prefer, the split, corrugated wire loom tubing. The reason for this is that it makes it much easier to make a change or run another wire later. It also keeps the wires clean. Wire ties are great for short runs or bundling things up under the dash etc.
On parts like the alternator use quick disconnect connectors. This allows you to do service without cutting wires. Use quality connectors however. Jegs sells a kit with 1, 2 , 3, 4, 5 and 6 wire connectors for about $80 and can be used all over the car where you need to make a connection but don't want a permanent splice. Again solder the male and female pins to the wires rather than just a crimp. Also fill the plug with dielectric grease.
ALWAYS tie loose wires down. Keep them in tight bundles away from things that move, get hot or can chafe. Use rubber grommets when running a wire through a hole in a bulkhead or panel. Use Adel clamps (“P” clamps) to tie down looms and large bundles
See the photos below that illustrate the points discussed above.
