After the holidays, time for some status:
Materials used:
From Rallydesign:
http://www.rallydesign.co.uk
MC4 Mechanical Parking Brake Caliper Wilwood (MC4) L=120-12069 R= 120-12070
2 x 4 - Pot Dynalite Caliper Wilwood Lug Mount 1.38" (DYNALITE) 120-6806
1 x DYNALITE 4-Pot - Smart Pads - BP10 (150-8850K)
1 x Granada MK2 - Billet 6-Pot - 300mm Vented Kit (BK5E)
1 x Smart Pad BP10 - Wilwood Supersix - 6-Pot (150-8855K)
2 x UNIVERSAL BELL - Offset Range 10-20 (UNIV 15)
2 x 11.75" (298.5) Diam - UL Straight Vane Rotor 160-5841
1 x 7/8" Bore Combination Remote M/C Kit (260-3376)
2 x 1" Bore Combination Remote M/C Kit (260-3378)
They were very responsive and helpful. Also via mail a quick response and good price
From Furore:
https://furoreproducts.co.uk/custom-brake-hose
4X brake lines
From Carbuilder solutions
Car Builder Solutions - Kit Car Parts and Accessories
All bits and bites. Brake lines and connectors.
A lot of useful parts with good quality.
From Southern GT
Southern GT - Manufacturer of the new Southern GT40 Replica-cv7kmgvcmd71brcbbtjl4k3fo7
Pedal box Hand made to fit the GTD frame.
1/6 ratio.
From Hayen Laser Technology
HAYEN LASER TECHNOLOGY (BELGIUM)
The laser cut adapter plates
To fit the GTD40:
- For the front I went for the 6pot kit because it was..... a kit... But actually I still had to cut and past to make it fit. The calliper is to long and hit the lower arm. The adapter block only lifts the calliper radial but it also should turn to become higher away from the lower arm.
Here I also could have make your own adapter and choose whatever calliper I like...........:drunk:
- For the rear I used a 8mm steel plate to position the caliper radial in position. Also to fit the hand brake MC4 on it.
Found a laser shop in the neighbourhood where you can send a DXF. What you do not find at Willwood are required tolerances. You need some loops to get it in a <0.1mm range. I needed 3 mock up's to make it fit correctly.
Also the universal bells I ordered needed to be machined. Tolerances here are the radial and axial run-out of 0.05mm (on disc). Quite challenging because you need to reposition (front/rear) of the bells in the machine.
So the machineshop (friend of mine) told me that making a 3D drawing of the required bell and providing a STEP file would be easier and from price the same. So I also made it 3D in case they messed up the bells. Alu material should be minimum HE30 grade or 6082 t6 (also input Rallydesign)
BTW: For people who do not have access to 3D, here is a good free parametric 3D prog:
FreeCAD: An open-source parametric 3D CAD modeler
- Tricky point is also the play needed between bell/disc (recommendation of Rallydesign). 1mm play on diameter is needed to prevent cracking the disk. So when mounting bell/disc some shims are needed to achieve the 0.05 radial run-out.
- Bolts must be of good quality at least 12.9. with self locking nuts of the same grade.... Your life depends on it.
Pedal box and master cylinders:
- To fit a pedal box in an already build car was more challenging then I thought. Also here a lot of cut/ past to make it fit. Nice thing is that you get the COMPLETE freedom how to position the pedals. It took me a while to finetune.
- According calculations with this Excel I needed 1" front 7/8" back. But this was quite theory. In praxis to much force needed. Pedal ratio in praxis is much lower. Your foot is pushing higher depending floor clearance.
I ended up with 0.75 front 0.70 rear, but still room for improvement. I wait till I get my new rear tires. I was also so clever to install new tires in the front and starting to test the brakes. Not a good idea... tires also need a run-in time!!!:thinking2:
-I also liked the Wilwood 260-3376 master cylinders? No bench bleeding needed and you can always bleed the system on the highest point where air accumulates..
- In general the brakes feel more direct and confident than with the boosters.
A BIG THANKS to everybody for the input.:thumbsup:
So nxt step is the suspension...rockonsmile