Joel B SL-C build Thread

[Joel Bailey]

Well as previously stated. this is My build. I've had the car since July 2024 and likely gonna be asking technical questions and troubleshooting scenario's. the main use of this machine will be a Track weapon that can pose as a street legal ride too.
this is how I ordered the car.
track day ball joints
QA 1 dampers
front lift system
track day front splitter
AC/Heat
ordered both sets of side windows for the car Full/Split
carbon fiber rear wing
Race tail
rear carbon scoop
stationary side impact bars
fiberglass tub and two pc seats
Graziano/ w drop gears 1.04
I'm sure to have forgot something. Currently still waiting on clutch, starter and starter ring gear, shifter,/cables, e brake and fuel system again may have forgot a few things.

 

[Joel Bailey]

fitting the coyote. The front primary motor mount are tacked in waiting for a full weld when the clutch kit makes it in..

 

[Joel Bailey]

Hopefully solved this issue. Other parts of the intake are making their way in.. but I think I found the clearance I need. And still need to resolve the water outlet issue later when the motor and transaxle come back out..

 

[Joel Bailey]

Some of the ECU placement . I figured this was about the best place for it to go as there's not really any images available to review , I'm not sure how many SL-C are out there with the coyote? I'm gonna guess less than five, maybe five? not sure.
Will be working out how all of the harness will be routed at some point , I'm trying not to have to cut into it just yet until I can optimize how it will need to go. The battery will be placed as close to the starter as I can but I believe it will get mounted to the floor plate by the ECU..

 

[DaveC]

What's your target weight? Sounds like you are going to keep things lighter. I see too many of these approaching 2800-3000 pounds with sound deadening, creature comforts, etc. Kind of defeats the purpose of an LMP. Might as well get a production car.

 

[Joel Bailey]

The aim is for 2400 lbs hopefully no more than 2600, Im going to approach it's use as you would a motorcycle (just whats needed on it). I may not even use the vintage air system that I bought with the car and will probably use just enough sound damper to keep my tinnitus from getting too crazy, I use ear plugs when I ride or drive the S2000 anyway. The car won't have traction control or antilock brakes either. No sound system going in. I do plan a fire suppression system. So weight should be at minimum hopefully.

 

[Neil]

The aim is for 2400 lbs hopefully no more than 2600, Im going to approach it's use as you would a motorcycle (just whats needed on it). I may not even use the vintage air system that I bought with the car and will probably use just enough sound damper to keep my tinnitus from getting too crazy, I use ear plugs when I ride or drive the S2000 anyway. The car won't have traction control or antilock brakes either. No sound system going in. I do plan a fire suppression system. So weight should be at minimum hopefully.

An aluminum block & heads can save a lot of weight over cast iron. My complete engine weighs only 395 lbs including flywheel. This even has a heavy forged crank. A stock iron block Chevy weighs 575 lbs.

 

[DaveC]

I would definitely install a light-weight air conditioning system, the SL-C does not have roll down windows or other ways to get good airflow through the cabin.

 

[Hector]

I totally agree on the a/c , car will be super hot without it , or at a minimum add some airplane vents to the windows like howard's , his is a track only car . if you are remotely considering street driving , then a/c is a MUST , in my opinion, otherwise it will be intolerable above 70 degrees outside temperature , I just drove my car 220 miles without a/c , outside temperature in the 70s and sunny , that was borderline for sure and my car is HEAVILY insulated and had the fan going (a/c compressor belt came off) .

Again just sharing my personal experience for what it's worth . Hope is helpful to you.

 

[Joel Bailey]

I planned to install the system in the car to begin with (I still will). My S2000 doesn't have an ac system and it has leather seats and when it gets around 70 your soaked.. if anything it's convinced me to install it along with a tolerable exhaust system.

 

[Neil]

I planned to install the system in the car to begin with (I still will). My S2000 doesn't have an ac system and it has leather seats and when it gets around 70 your soaked.. if anything it's convinced me to install it along with a tolerable exhaust system.

In a Southern Arizona summer, Try sitting on vinyl seats in shorts!

 

[Mark B.]

Car looks great! Agree with the others -- definitely keep the AC, but you can leave the heater lines disconnected (saves a tiny amount of weight of the hoses / valve / coolnant). My car weighs exactly 2588 with no fuel, but with all other fluids. 2400 is going to be very hard. I have street tail, no wing, partial fiberglass tub (no center console, and removed the front floors of the tub), Carbon dash, carbon interior roof, Tillet carbon seats, AC but no heat, minimal sound dampening, LS engine, Graziano trans, trimmed a bit from the lower rear clip. My intake setup and dry sump / cooler add probably 30 pounds.

 

[Joel Bailey]

Not much I can do at the moment. So back on the chassis stand.. maybe try to do a rough alignment and maybe try to square the body ..

 

[Joel Bailey]

Small update. Currently working on electrical and need to extend the wiring harness for the car. My car came with the Wilwood peddle assembly
and I couldn't find any documentation or info on how to make the electronic peddle for the Coyote work. I've seen the Penny & Giles throttle position sensor but no real way to adapt it to the Wilwood. I didn't receive a TPS bracket that superlite shows in the online manual. This is what I came up with to use the throttle peddle that shipped with my motor. The plate sits on top of the adjuster plate and allows the whole assembly to move as one, I'll clean the plate up and have it powder coated later. I have some 1/4-20 spherical rod ends ordered that will make up the physical connection between the electronic unit and the Wilwood assembly. The steel plate doesn't add any height and still allows for adjustment. Currently waiting on the other components from Superlite. I do have the Intake/Filter/MAF tubing coming in Wednesday 28th. Now about a set of headers recommendations. If I have to fit them up then I'll bite the bullet and do it. But I'm good if someone who does it day in and day out can make a set. I'm good with TIG/MIG welding, but dont want to be testing my patience and wallet with mistakes if I can pay a pro to do it. So, I'm looking for advice on this one.