Joe’s AP MK1 Gt40 build

[Joe]

That is a fast mock up! How is the angle between the diff output to the rear upright?

I haven’t checked yet.

 

[Joe]

 

[Joe]

Clutch lines done

 

[Neil]

SCTA requires a toe loop on the throttle pedal at their events. The purpose is so the driver can hook his toe on it to pull the throttle closed in case it sticks open. It's not a bad idea if you're building something with speed potential.

 

[Joe]

SCTA requires a toe loop on the throttle pedal at their events. The purpose is so the driver can hook his toe on it to pull the throttle closed in case it sticks open. It's not a bad idea if you're building something with speed potential.

Just ordered thanks for info. Turns out company who makes my pedal has one

 

[joe]

Did you bend your own brake lines?

 

[Joe]

Did you bend your own brake lines?

Yes i do everything on my cars lol

 

[joe]

My frame just went to powder coating and I think body panels are in the works. I was a little confused as to whether brake lines were included.
Is there a close-out panel for the bottom of the front trunk area?

 

[Joe]

My frame just went to powder coating and I think body panels are in the works. I was a little confused as to whether brake lines were included.
Is there a close-out panel for the bottom of the front trunk area?

Chassis is a blank canvas lol. No it does not, i sent chris an email requesting s piece though as i want it closed aswell.
Thanks

 

[Brian]

I bought a full sheer of 5052, .125 for things like this. A bottom sheet would triangulate and greatly strengthen the nose Also, I'll add better mounts for the supplied verticals to eliminate the flex in the bends where they're bolted to the front of the footwell.

I need to do a little practice with the spool gun first.

 

[Neil]

I bought a full sheer of 5052, .125 for things like this. A bottom sheet would triangulate and greatly strengthen the nose Also, I'll add better mounts for the supplied verticals to eliminate the flex in the bends where they're bolted to the front of the footwell.

I need to do a little practice with the spool gun first.

5052 H? 0.125" may be overkill but you've already bought it. You could have saved half the weight weight by using 2024-T3 Alclad 0.063". Add my usual rant about rivets...

 

[Brian]

I bought it for header tanks on intercoolers and fuel tanks, but I'll use the excess for this.

 

[Neil]

I bought it for header tanks on intercoolers and fuel tanks, but I'll use the excess for this.

5052 is a good alloy for that- it is weldable, 2024 is not.

 

[Brian]

I weighed the pros and cons of getting 6061 or 5052. For what I needed, if I was getting just one, 5052 was the better choice.

 

[Neil]

I weighed the pros and cons of getting 6061 or 5052. For what I needed, if I was getting just one, 5052 was the better choice.

Better corrosion resistance with the one you chose.

 

[Joe]

Something I been thinking about and pre planning of cooling system hoses. how does the fill reservoir get spliced in to hoses to fill? I assume gets T’d into the water pump side? Anyone have a pic or 2.below is what I’m using
thanks

 

[Brian]

Whatever you do, you want it set up so that when you add coolant it has a nice straight path from the tank to a water pump intake so it can get a prime and push the water through and displace the air.

Also, you want a path so that bubbles in the system can be caught and purged from the system through the tank.

You could replace the bypass tube with heater hoses to and from that tank, but from a nipple high on the intake might be better to catch the bubbles.

I was planning to fabricate a slightly larger tank that had 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 lines to the bottom so the water from the radiator dumped in and the main water pump pick up drew from it. This will make filling and burping a non issue.

 

[Joe]

Im no artist but you all get the idea lol.
Is this correct? I will be putting a/c & heat.where other hose on tank go?
thanks

 

[Brian]

Rather than tee-ing the radiator tube, you could hook the bottom end to the capped water pump heater connection. Both of the hose nipples also connect to the pump intake. BUT you will need two connections to the tank so coolant flows through the tank to expel entrained air. Add another line from the top of the manifold to the top of the tank.

Is the tank's other line headed to the heater? That would be functional as long as the heater valve is a bypass type rather than just a single shut off valve.

 

[Joe]

Rather than tee-ing the radiator tube, you could hook the bottom end to the capped water pump heater connection. Both of the hose nipples also connect to the pump intake. BUT you will need two connections to the tank so coolant flows through the tank to expel entrained air. Add another line from the top of the manifold to the top of the tank.

Is the tank's other line headed to the heater? That would be functional as long as the heater valve is a bypass type rather than just a single shut off valve.

The heater i plane on doing connections in the front of car. So from what i think your saying is cap of the nipple on thermostat housing and run both hoses off WP? Att is pic of my thermo housing and the green in my drawing no longer being used and going with the blue route? Or do i sound crazy lol