Joe’s AP MK1 Gt40 build

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So, I noticed the return side of your radiator does not pull off the top. There's a good chance of you getting a big bubble of air in there and the top half of the radiator going unused. You need to either add a bleed from the top of the return or something to ensure the radiator is full of water, and not 1/2 air.

I'm also not real happy with the way those 2 vertical pieces are bent and bolt to the front. This puts a lot of stress on the bend and allows a lot of flex that will work harden adn crack the alum.

They're a good start, but I think we need some flat tabs connecting the verticals to the box.

Tomorrow, I'll try to sketch something.
[/QUOTE]

So, I noticed the return side of your radiator does not pull off the top. There's a good chance of you getting a big bubble of air in there and the top half of the radiator going unused. You need to either add a bleed from the top of the return or something to ensure the radiator is full of water, and not 1/2 air.

I'm also not real happy with the way those 2 vertical pieces are bent and bolt to the front. This puts a lot of stress on the bend and allows a lot of flex that will work harden adn crack the alum.

They're a good start, but I think we need some flat tabs connecting the verticals to the box.

Tomorrow, I'll try to sketch something.

My GT40 started to show signs of a stress crack as mentioned. A couple of flat aluminum pieces bolted on to the extension and onto the firewall resolved the issue. Easy fix.
 
View attachment 125342View attachment 125343View attachment 125344View attachment 125345So, I noticed the return side of your radiator does not pull off the top. There's a good chance of you getting a big bubble of air in there and the top half of the radiator going unused. You need to either add a bleed from the top of the return or something to ensure the radiator is full of water, and not 1/2 air.

I'm also not real happy with the way those 2 vertical pieces are bent and bolt to the front. This puts a lot of stress on the bend and allows a lot of flex that will work harden adn crack the alum.

They're a good start, but I think we need some flat tabs connecting the verticals to the box.

Tomorrow, I'll try to sketch something.



My GT40 started to show signs of a stress crack as mentioned. A couple of flat aluminum pieces bolted on to the extension and onto the firewall resolved the issue. Easy fix.
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i read your build thread a few months ago,perfect build.did Chris make your headers?
thanks
 
My GT40 started to show signs of a stress crack as mentioned. A couple of flat aluminum pieces bolted on to the extension and onto the firewall resolved the issue. Easy fix.
i read your build thread a few months ago,perfect build.did Chris make your headers?
thanks
[/QUOTE]
Yes, Chris built my headers and I had them powder coated.
 
With that radiator, is there an internal pipe on one side leading to the top of the tank? What's you procedure to purge the air?

I have a 3 pass that's a little taller. I'll have to lay it down a little more but I think I can make it fit. And one port is on top, one on bottom.

And nice solution to the stresses in the bend.
 
Thanks.

I was wondering.

But still, as you're running, if there is ever any air entrained in the coolant exiting the thermostat housing, it's going to accumulate in the radiator.

I'm just theorizing here before I set mine up.
 
My radiator had them making it easy to purge the air out. Actually one will do the job and should be easy to do. A small bung welded on top would work. Any radiator repair shop would be your best option.
 
Anyone else have the issue with valve cover breather hitting body? Too of VC is about an inch away with breather.
 
As you dig into this build, anything you would order different from Chris? My chassis is nearing completion and things should be finalized after the first of the year. I'm thinking about things like going with a Tilton master cylinder and pedal set up, Radiator and fan choice, wire harness (I'm used to working with American Auto Wire), Headlights, etc. I'm also leaning towards using a pair of Kirkey seats. They just seam a little more robust that the GT40 style seats. I have a paif in my 66 mustang project and am happy with them. I think I would be able to modify them slightly if needed to get them to work in the GT40. Thanks for any input!
 
If you are particular about things and are willing and able to make things, I would suggest take the minimum kit and do the rest as you would like.

One mistake I made, but Chris is willing to rectify, the shocks he sourced were the fixed rate QA1, not the adjustable.

Not sure what Chris would have supplied, but I'm using Wilwood floor mounted pedals, and adding a Saturn Vue electric power steering unit. Seems it will all fit nicely. I would suggest the separate clutch and brake so you can shift around so it doesn't interfere with the steering shaft.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/265947302199 and https://www.ebay.com/itm/265947302176 They're adjustable ratio by moving the pedal pad.

There are a lot of pretty aftermarket shifters for cheap on Ebay for the Honda Ricer community, but it may require some bellcrank magic to implement.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/354358932405

I took the light kit, but I'm thinking I may try to put a more modern projector style light, maybe in the fog light position. Not sure on this.

He didn't lay out absolute details about the suspension parts, so I wasn't sure what degree of refurbishment there would be, so I bought the cheapest parts I could find on ebay and bought all new ball joints and bearings, name brand top shelf stuff.

For that matter, I had him leave the motor mounts off so I could have the flexibility to shift it for or aft as I decided I needed for all of the extra plumbing I'll be dealing with.

Be sure to get the windshield. I'm temped to get an extra just to have in the loft if I ever need it. The rest of the "glass" is thin polysomething, rough cut. I didn't know that I could do better, so included in my purchase.

I'm very particular about the wiring, so other than the lights, I'm doing all of that myself.
 
I use wilwood on all my builds so im happy with pedal kit supplied along thing throttle pedal. I ended up swapping out the c5 brakes with wilwood all around.Wire harness i bought my own. The lights are basically orig equipment so if you want new style lighting ones in kit not for you lol. Im not using mine im updating i think.the seats im very happy i went with, look great and pretty comfy. What trans you going with?
Joe
 
I don't want to buy anything twice, so thanks for the input. The car will eventually be tracked. Chris is supplying the C5 suspension, but I'll be sourcing aftermarket brakes.
I'll be going with a Prestige injected 363. So far, I'm happy with the 510 horse they built for my 66, along with the service after the sale. Chris is supplying a NOS LSD 997 transaxle that he had in the shop.
 
Crazy question.on the borla stack injection fuel pressure regulator, does the fuel feed Go to regulator and out rail or feed to rail and out regulator?I always put feed to regulator first on my other builds but I’m noticing differently on other gt40
thanks
 
On my Borla setup the gas feeds into the fuel rails and then the regulator. This is the way I got it and haven’t had any issues with it.
 
On my Borla setup the gas feeds into the fuel rails and then the regulator. This is the way I got it and haven’t had any issues with it.
That’s how Im noticing them. I’m just confused on how it regulates the pressure that way though. So your pump to filter to the blue arrow then out regulator (red arrow) back to tank?
 
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