Ken's SLC build thread

#2
Here is a picture of the front accessory drive. I'm using a Pontiac G8 GXP setup. The power steering pump was gutted and the housing converted to hold a large idler pulley in the correct orientation. I added my own design A/C brackets. The water pump inlet and outlet were modified to point in the correct direction.
 

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#4
I installed a LS7 dry sump tank. It has been highly modified to work. I don't recommend it as it was too much work but I was up for the challenge when told "it wouldn't fit". A piggy back section was added to increase it's capacity and a Aviad insert/baffle installed. The picture shows the tank before the piggyback section was welded in place after correct orientation.
 

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#5
The valley cover was modified for the stock sensor. This is difficult to accomplish with the LS3 intake. I had to machine the sensor pad down to half it's thickness and then slightly cut down the Katech elbow so that it would clear the intake manifold.
UPDATE 2018-Katech has a new elbow that is twice the price now but is designed to fit the LS3 intake. I have a complete modified valley cover and this exact elbow for sale in the classified section of the forum. The second picture is the one for sale.
 

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#6
In this picture you can see the servo controlled heater valve I have installed to control the flow of coolant when the A/C is commanded. I modified the stock rotary switch to act as either open or closed with the use of a relay.

The coiled nylon tubing sitting on top of the intake is for the EVAP cannister.

The air intake is a modified setup from a C6 Z06 Corvette. The filter housing is actually carbon fiber.
 

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#10
Looks awesome! Can't wait to follow your build. If you scroll past that first pic quick enough, it looks a lot like a Ferrari (reminiscent of an enzo/f50) with the color and wheels.
 
#12
Thanks for the compliment Jack, Matt and Dnrice. You guys have shown me so much in the past. Time to give back and to aid new owners too.

Here are some pictures of my pedal assembly. I am using the more compact Corvette DBW pedal. Fran's bracket is made for the GMPP harness pedal that comes in the engine wiring kit. I elected to install the residual valves on the pedal assembly. The sensor at the clutch pedal is for the safety engine start and cruise disengagement. The sensor at the brake pedal is for safety engine start, cruise control and brake light activation. Since I am using the complete electrical architecture from a C6 Corvette these types of additions need to be made.
 

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#13
A cardboard mock up has been made for the C6 Corvette fan assembly. I installed the hyd lift motor and reservoir at the same time. Yes folks.....that is in my living room...lol No "MRS" in this household.

The Corvette fan was chosen because of it's ramp up ability. It starts off slow then will increase rpm according to it's ability to keep the coolant temp in check. There are no relays to wire in with this setup. I'm not using the ISIS wiring system.

On the same table in the living room is the Cadillac XLR steering column. I depinned the column of all the unneccessary wiring. I also removed the sensors at both tilt and telescopic motors for a little more "toe room". The sensors are used for the memory feature and end of travel stops. If you wire these motors up without them you must be careful to advance the up/down or in/out switches slowly when you are nearing the end of travel.
 

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#15
I added a 22 pin quick connect to the front bulk head while the nose was off. One bolt in the middle holds the two halves together. The front harness can be seperated from the car by removing the central bolt.
 

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#16
This picture shows the brackets being mocked up for the Ricardo transaxle.

As a side note I noticed the weak Ricardo axle bolts installed and have ordered the Accufab bolt kit.

This picture shows the heat shield ring being fitted to the transaxle. A 6" diameter aluminum tube will be cut in half with one half for the drivers side axle shield and the other half for passenger side shield.
 

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#17
Here is the LS7 drysump tank in it's installed position. The piggy back add on section is facing the front clearing all obstacles and can now be welded in this final mock up position.
 

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#18
Here is a mock up picture of the K&N filter housing. The housing was shortened by about 8". The part that was removed was the curved section. This filter is actually made out of carbon fiber. I will reinstall the rear clip shortly to make sure I have clearance.

You can also see the Katech coil brackets. I modified them to be used with the stock valve covers. The coil towers were cut off and the covers smoothed.

In the lower part of the picture you can see the battery tray being mocked up.

I need to raise it slightly because the handbrake lever will be installed on the left side of the driver and the cable path will aim right at the battery base.

The blue hose in the lower left of the picture is for the ZR1 oil cooler. Coolant flow leaves the heat exchanger than eventually joins up with the coolant flow leaving the water pump.
 

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#20
Here is a picture of the heater servo controlled valve rotary switch disassembled. The three wires are cut from the potentiometer then wired to the 5 pin relay as shown in the picture
 

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