Let the FiberFab Fandangle begin!!

[Michael]

Whats kripulating my fellow GT40 Phinatiks! My names Mike. My dream car was a Graphite colored GT40 with gloss black racing stripes that I raced in Gran turismo(the video game. It was a out of reach goal for a long time until I grabbed a fiberfab GT12 3peice kit a guy posted on FB marketplace and I just so happened to be curious about searching for that day. I had to keep looking in the rear veiw mirror on the way home a couple of times to see if it was actually there bc I couldnt beleive it. Now that ive starred at it for a few days and thought about what i want to do and how i want to do it, I can start asking questions and making statements. So here I be..
My ideal setup is to have equal to or greater than HP as weight, but im willing to accept less for conveinence. Only when it has the potential to be better in the future via upgrades(not a rebuild). Im going to stick to the mid engine rwd setup. But im open to other options that lead to the same result ie LS transaxel with reverse box or perhaps this 472 with 8.5:1 with a modified transmission to fit mid engine rwd.. I am probably early to this party.. i dont know enough about engines and things to make this happen on my own. I kinda just dove into this confidently yet ingnorantly for the sake of fun so any and all advise or expertise is literally priceless to me and Thank you in advance to any and all time and help yall offer up here!

 

[Brian Kissel]

Mike, welcome to GT40s. Firstly start reading ALL the build threads. You will not find any transaxles to handle anywhere near that kind of horsepower for less than $40,000.00 and that doesn't include the clutch. Start out with what your budget is then set realistic goals for your project. Do lots of research before you start anything. This is probably why your project car was available. Set realistic goals and modify in the future, This is only my opinion.

Regards Brian

 

[Devin]

Welcome Michael, congrats on your new adventure and obsession!

I’ll keep it short and add on to Brian’s experienced words:

1. Keep it simple! (Multiple reasons of experience, cost, abilities, etc)
2. Keep it light weight (Again, for cost, performance, HP to Weight, and reason #1)
3. Take a bite out of the project everyday (if not at least every week)...you WILL finish it if you do!
4. Think ahead (when not turning wenches) to plan work, parts, and overcoming challenges. It keeps you involved in the project and helps to motivate for #3
5. Realize your capabilities, ask for help, find good shops in your area that you can trust to do the work if you can’t.
6. Again #1! Keep it simple...you can always improve things once you get a running and driving car and have a chance to enjoy all the work you put into the project.

Don’t know your driving experience but when I built my first Cobra replica (I’m a retired military pilot) I had almost more car than I could handle with 2200lbs and 350hp and a short wheelbase. Once I got use to that hp and built the skills to handle and predict the car, I knew it was plenty of HP to weight for most people to get into trouble and never let unfamiliar people drive without me coaching them by their sides (most people are so use to all the modern safety systems on today’s vehicles to keep them out of trouble and bad situations they put themselves into). I grew up driving all sorts of vehicles with manual brakes, manual transmissions, no ABS, no electronic assists, driving on muddy/sandy country roads...so guess I am saying is to consider that into your build and goals. It’s cool to say XXX horsepower but more important is how heavy of a mass is that XXX hp trying to move (thus my #2) and keeping it all affordable and without something always breaking because the rest of the vehicle can’t support it.

Good luck with the project and have fun on your adventure!

 

[Neil]

Welcome Michael, congrats on your new adventure and obsession!

I’ll keep it short and add on to Brian’s experienced words:

1. Keep it simple! (Multiple reasons of experience, cost, abilities, etc)
2. Keep it light weight (Again, for cost, performance, HP to Weight, and reason #1)
3. Take a bite out of the project everyday (if not at least every week)...you WILL finish it if you do!
4. Think ahead (when not turning wenches) to plan work, parts, and overcoming challenges. It keeps you involved in the project and helps to motivate for #3
5. Realize your capabilities, ask for help, find good shops in your area that you can trust to do the work if you can’t.
6. Again #1! Keep it simple...you can always improve things once you get a running and driving car and have a chance to enjoy all the work you put into the project.

Don’t know your driving experience but when I build my first Cobra replica (I’m a retired military pilot) I had almost more car than I could handle with 2200lbs and 350hp and a short wheelbase. Once I got use to that hp and built the skills to handle and predict the car, I knew it was plenty of HP to weight for most people to get into trouble and never let unfamiliar people drive without me coaching them by their sides (most people are so use to all the modern safety systems on today’s vehicles to keep them out of trouble and bad situations they put themselves into). I grew up driving all sorts of vehicles with manual brakes, manual transmissions, no ABS, no electronic assists, driving on muddy/sandy country roads...so guess I am saying is to consider that into your build and goals. It’s cool to say XXX horsepower but more important is how heavy of a mass is that XXX hp trying to move (thus my #2) and keeping it all affordable and without something always breaking because the rest of the vehicle can’t support it.

Good luck with the project and have fun on your adventure!

This advice is absolutely true; take it as Gospel!

 

[Bill J]

There have been a couple of Fiberfabs on the auction site Bring a Trailer. Take a look there . Lots of details and photos. They were originally designed to fit on a VW bug chassis. I built one in the 60's like that with a 140 HP corvair engine. Fun and a real learning experience. Maybe start there with a workable budget and learn what to do and what not to do. Avenger GT12s sort of resemble at GT40 but are not in the same league. If a 40 is what you really want, don't spend much on the GT12. Look for an unfinished older 40 kit that will at least have a finished value closer to what you put into it..

Show some photos and ask questions especially about the old school parts used to complete an Avenger GT12 if you go that route.. I still remember junk yard shopping to complete mine. Good Luck!

 

[Brian]

At the risk of sounding a snob, if I had a fiberfab gtish, and was on a budget with it, I would suggest looking for a nice FWD as a doner. Maybe an older Maxima with a V6 and standard. Look at the Archie V8 fiero for a LS option without spending 10K plus on a transaxle.

Another couple of nice ones, V6 Passat, 2000 or so V6 cougar.

As Bill points out, the finished value of the fiberfab will be seriously ham stringed, so invest accordingly.



Do it and enjoy. Great time and learning experience, and weighing only 1800 lbs or so, it'll be a rocket.

I did a Kelmark, and used the V6 manual transaxle out of a 2000 New edge Cougar, and the duratec V6 out of a 2000 taurus and added turbo. It used OEM half shafts, 2000 ranger front wheel hubs and it's 72-73" track with wide mustang wheel. I fabbed my own uprights and A arms.

 

[Michael]

Wow. Firstly thank you all for your input. Ive learned alot from this group already. I see now that there are many kits available for this and I dont want to lose a lot of money making this car so Thank you for that info Bill and Brian. Also I want the power I put into it to plant itself on the road so 1500 is cool, but not practical for this build so thanks Brian.K. Neil im seeing that these guys know from experience that this can be fun if you do it right and listen to the O.Gs... and Devin. Ive torn things up down apart and back together since i was about 5 years old. It wasnt until I turned 23 24 I learned how to choose my battles wisely and now that ive stopped counting the years and cant count the amount of projects I have going on, i know pretty much everything you said is true especcially picking at them like you said a little per day. I am a dreamer with the ability to let go and get real, so I can really see where all of you are coming from. Ive already turned wayy wayy down from where I was headed. Im thinking a FWD engine ISs the way to go for me. I dont want to do wheelies All day.. so i have to figure out how Or what engine/trans setup will place my engine in front of the rear axle at least a little without getting too crazy bc like Brian said its a FiberFab12. Its not going to give me much other than enjoyment back. So maybe the turbo subaru boxer engine would be nice and tidy enough to fit or the Maxima or i was looking at the caddy srx.. Im curious is there a thread where the guys and girls that completed their builds list what parts they have used and why or what they would have done differently had they known.. that would be nice.. Anyway just wanted to thank everyone for their input. Ill keep reading until i find a question worthy of a new thread.

 

[Brian]

I've put Megaquirt EFI in a couple of things, so I'm completely comfortable with ditching the factory ECU. Easy since I didn't have an automatic tranny to coordinate with.

I was sort of modeling my drivetrain off of the Noble M12. 6 years ago when I did it, the parts were plentiful in salvage yard, and I found a 1999 or 2000 Taurus on facebook with 89K miles for just $900. The old guy who owned it put water in the power steering and the brakes were so badly warped you really had to hang on before stopping, But the motor ran great and had it's oil changes.

Are you set on auto or manual? If auto, I would say you need a complete running donor car. Anything newer that 1990 will almost certainly have an electronic shifted (paddle shifter) tranny. An aftermarket ECU and transmission controller is difficult or expensive, and for a V6 FWD beater, likely not even available.

Maxima option will have a bunch of 350Z hi po parts that will interchange.

Look on Wikipedia and check the car's track width. Keep in mind, this measure will me with modern shallow dish wheels. I'm guessign you'll want deeper dish wheels that will give you a wider track. Cutting OEM half shafts is usually pretty cheap through Dutchman if you need it narrower.

I found a LOT of useful info on Timkin's hub bearing catalog. You can find different bolt pattern hub bearings that match your splines. That's where I found the Ranger front hubs mate to the Cougar/Contuor halfshaft but with Mustang bolt pattern and pilot hub. Bolt on hub bearing makes fabricated uprights doable by a guy with a mig welder in his garage. Here's a few pics of what I did in my Cobra 12 years ago. https://www.talkcobra.com/threads/new-member-luce_.14070/

I think one of the main drivers in my picking the Ford Duratec, cost. A non abused Taurus was easy to find, and parts are cheap and available, and the intake manifold is aluminum (for Turbo). My second choice was the Passat V6, but the cost of German parts and the plastic engine parts scared me off.

If you want an auto, no question, GM. Look at a pontiac G6 or one of the supercharged 3.8 variants. Rock solid engine.