Martin Superlite APEX

For those who have been following our Apex build and wonder what the final vision will look like once completed, we present the rendering provided to us by none other than Florin Blebea, the designer and the individual who did the original clay of the Apex for RCR.
apex-design proposal.jpg
 

Fran Hall RCR

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Ralph,
nice rendering from Flo.....
He is certainly not the designer of the Apex though...
He did do the renderings and some of the clay model work while he was here as an intern.
Flo still works for me on a contract basis doing surface modeling and rendering.
 
As with any new build there have been some issues....and will still require the front crossmember to be redesigned out around the front of the sump.

I was hoping the LS1 pan would be ok since it's shallow at 4.75" but basically the pan is limited to the height of those two motor mounts which is like less then 4 inches probably...so that pretty much rules out any wet sumps. So the other option is maybe dry sump or like you plan redesign the front crossmember.

The rear crossmember interferes with the clutch adapter (bellhousing) also and that crossmember will need to be offset to the rear for clearance.

So it doesn't look like any LS motor will be fitting the sub-frame (at least one mounted with a transaxle). So one way or another everyone will have to be modifying the subframe correct? Well unless third option raise entire engine and tranny 3 inches (non-option).
 
This picture gives a quick glance at the front rail that has been removed. It will be ground smooth and a plate welded over the area to keep water and debris out of the rail and to gain additional strength to that area. All cts will be ground smooth and dressed as the build progresses.
View attachment 79453

Did your cut instructions include these cuts or did you just do it (I don't see it in mine)? I can see that it needs to be done to clear the suspension though?
 
I have been told that the LS Corvette pan will work along with the Corvette 'bat wing' pans. These are the same pans that work with the SL-C's. so no cutting required.
 
There were no instructions to do the cuts. They were necessary to clear the frame.

This might be a silly question but did you get any guidance on how or rather where to drill the holes in the shock towers to attach the subframe to it. I know you also had to fabricate the spacer (I have to as well...I'm off by like .5" on each side). Assuming I will bolt the bottom first as there may be a stock mounting point or two used (this should help squaring left to right). But I'm mostly concerned about leveling it and then drilling holes in the towers. I don't want to just eyeball it.
 
I've completed all my cuts to the eclipse. Regarding the front subframe bolting up to the eclipse and fitment - the lower/outer square tubing and bolt location are flush with the car frame, and there's a small gape (1/8") on the upper/smaller square tubing bolt location. I assume this is appropriate. Did you drill holes in the interior floorboards to remove the existing bolts for new hardware or did you use existing (mine are short and not usable)? I guess you have to drill the floorboard for the outer bolts anyway so I think I answered my question. Curious if you have the inner and outer bolt sizes that you used handy?

Man building a car for the first time and without instructions is difficult...just don't want to mess things up. Sorry to continually bug you.
 
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