Original, genuine slave cylinder?

[Mike Drew]

Hey guys,

Does anybody know the Girling part number for the original clutch slave cylinder, or at least the make/model of car that it perhaps might cross over to? I'm years away from a GT40 but when I get mine, I'd like to have an original-style setup, as original as possible, meaning a proper Girling slave bolted to the FAV bellhousing etc.

A source for purchasing would be great too.

Looking forward to your words of wisdom on the matter! :thumbsup:

 

[JimmyMac]

Mike,
Use Girling part number 3010201 W
Austin Healey 100 / 6
7/8" Cylinder Bore

 

[John Fitzpatrick]

I bought a Lucas (made by Girling) slave cylinder for an MGB that fits the mounting holes and boss on a ZF dash 0 bellhousing perfectly. It has a 7/8" bore and a stroke of about 1-1/4". The Girling casting number is pretty illegible, but it looks as though the last three digits are 200. There are two numbers on the Lucas Box: 40520496 and 311164. I have no idea what the Lucas numbers designate or if the cylinder actually looks like the Healey Jimmymac referenced. I've attached a photo and perhaps he or another of the experts can chime in.

 

[Mike Drew]

Thanks guys!

Looking at the Austin Healey 100/6 parts diagram here:

Victoria British - Catalog AH - Page 56

The slave cylinder looks right, but the pushrod actuator seems completely different from the GT40. That might need to be machined from scratch?

Anybody care to hazard a guess how long that might need to be, the diameter of the ball on the end etc.?

 

[JimmyMac]

Hello Mike and John,
Now I'm completely bamboozled and you most probably will be too when you read this....

The original clutch slave cylinder is shown in the attached photos and it's quite different from the catalogue drawing which Mike posted.
I am fairly sure that I purchased the slave in question, to the Girling number and it came in the correctly numbered box so something is amiss here.
To help there is a pattern? number on the casting - 313290 which could be a Lucas number.

You will see from the photo of the original set-up that the inlet and outlet nozzle orientation is at 90* to the boss face on the bell-housing. There are a lot of similar slave cylinders out there with the pairs of nozzles at 45* and 135* and I have loads of them but the correct one is the one shown and thanks to a German friend of mine for putting me straight years back.

The adjustable push rod and return rod are also quite different from the standard Girling parts and need to be machined (see the middle shot) These are clearly shown in the JW Automotive catalogue.
The best way to get the length of the rods is to fit the slave and the clutch lever and measure the stroke and return from the slave to the lever tang as it will depend on your bell-housing casting geometry.

Obtaining the splined lever will be another problem as these are pretty rare these days.

 

[Mike Drew]

Obtaining the splined lever will be another problem as these are pretty rare these days.

That may prove to be the easy part. Lloyd Butfoy told me that the VW Beetle uses essentially the same piece. I don't have time to research it now, but I'll do the Googleinterweb thing tonight and report what I find.

Thanks for your photos and part numbers of your slave cylinder; I'm now working on a US source for these things, and will similarly report back. I'm hoping to learn the OEM application for this particular slave cylinder, since it appears that it's not the AH 100/6 as previously thought? :huh:

Can you provide me with a rough distance measurement of your adjustable pushrod, and the diameter of the ball on the end? I have a friend who's a machinist and can make something like that for me, in his sleep! :thumbsup:

 

[JimmyMac]

Mike,
Lloyd advised me the same and I got the VW part but it's too short.

The middle photo posted shows two push rods and the stronger looking one is 3.75" long. Both rods are revisions to the original for safety to keep the ball end in the cup of the lever.

The second return clutch safety stop rod and spring is missing from the parts photo - part number 7/5374 etc. This is attached to the longer fixing bolt shown in the bell-housing set-up photo. This is required as a stop and to maintain ball cup contact.

I hope this helps.

 

[JimmyMac]

The plot thickens
Austin A90 / A95 Healey 100 /6

Classic Car Parts for Austin

 

[John Fitzpatrick]

James-
Can you clarify something in the third picture? There looks to be a spacer of some sort on the left bolt fastening the cylinder that requires the 90* inlet and bleed, and a wire ring below it- what are they? Also, is the long bolt that goes through the bellhousing boss to the inside of the cylinder a structural connection or something else?
Thanks for the pics of the pushrod- I've often wondered how the bottom end should be configured! I wonder if something like the adjustable engine pushrod used to check rocker arm alignment would work to get the proper clutch pushrod length?

 

[JimmyMac]

John,
As I previously mentioned regarding the longer fixing bolt. That 'spacer' is the the barrel of the clutch safety stop rod and the wire ring holds the top of the return spring.
Mike,
Photos of the said VW lever compared to the ZF lever.
The spline is also almost non-existent.

 

[Mike Drew]

John,
As I previously mentioned regarding the longer fixing bolt. That 'spacer' is the the barrel of the clutch safety stop rod and the wire ring holds the top of the return spring.
Mike,
Photos of the said VW lever compared to the ZF lever.
The spline is also almost non-existent.

Almost? I'd say it's completely non-existent!

So, where would one go about sourcing the proper clutch safety stop rod/return spring/ZF lever?

Also, in the center photo in your first posting, what is the gizmo at the top center of the photo? I can identify the slave cylinder, pushrods x2, and ZF arm, but can't figure out what the other piece is? :huh:

 

[JimmyMac]

Mike,
About one quarter of the bore on the VW piece is splined. The diameter is also larger.
The part in the top of the photo is the friction flange adjuster for the gear shift rod.
Part number 7/5302
I understand that Gelscoe might supply a re-pop of the lever.

 

[Glenn M]

Mike
Mick Sollis at Southern GT does the whole system from fork to external slave cylinder, try him.

Glenn

 

[JimmyMac]

Glenn,
Any pictures ?

 

[Mike Drew]

FWIW I contacted a Lucas/Girling parts dealer here and asked about the relevant slave cylinder--not only availability, but also seeking an original OEM application other than the GT40. They replied:

"We found that number in our Girling buyers guide but all it says for application is "FORD". We do not have the cylinder in stock, all we can supply is a rebuilding kit which is $9.96 your cost."

So, going nowhere fast. :sad:

I'd be interested to know if Mick's offering is 100% as original, or just another one of the many, widely-available does-the-job-but-in-a-different-way systems, which are normally found on GT40 replicas? How does it compare to the items in Jimmymac's photos above?

 

[JimmyMac]

Mike,
It's definitely Girling part number 3010201 W
I though that there might be a mix-up with the boxes but I remember now that I bought two and gave one to a friend and I keep pictures of everything.

 

[Glenn M]

Sorry James I haven't, but I think Mick may have some. It's always when it's all bolted together and in the car that I think "I should have taken some pictures"!

Glenn

 

[Jay Cushman]

Like these?

 

[JimmyMac]

Those are just the trick Jay.
I've got a pair of them lying about somewhere.
Thanks for posting.

 

[Glenn M]

James, having a good trawl I managed to find some - amazing.

I think that they are more in the style of rather than exactly the same as, but on the plus side, they are readily available.

Glenn