Glen where did you get them or do you sell them ?
I'm looking for a set .....
Frank
I'm looking for a set .....
Frank
James-
This may be the all time dumb question, but why use an over-travel on the clutch lever? It isn't obvious to me how, if the master and slave contain the same volume, you need to worry about it. I know throttle cables usually have have a stop, sometimes at the petal and linkage both to protect the carb, and an extra return spring to prevent an overspeed (I am assuming), but how would an over-travel of the clutch be a serious event?
This may have been resolved by now, but I'll add confirmation.
I worked for GIrling in the 60's and 70's and have the original installation info.
The correct slave cylinder is 3010201.
The system used forged banjo 352241 and banjo bolt 376102 on both master cylinder and slave cylinder, to bring female threads up to 7/16 UNF for the use of 1/4" bundy tubing.
These parts and a lot of other GT40 Girling brake and clutch bits are available out here.
____________________Hello Mike and John,
Now I'm completely bamboozled and you most probably will be too when you read this....
The original clutch slave cylinder is shown in the attached photos and it's quite different from the catalogue drawing which Mike posted.
I am fairly sure that I purchased the slave in question, to the Girling number and it came in the correctly numbered box so something is amiss here.
To help there is a pattern? number on the casting - 313290 which could be a Lucas number.
You will see from the photo of the original set-up that the inlet and outlet nozzle orientation is at 90* to the boss face on the bell-housing. There are a lot of similar slave cylinders out there with the pairs of nozzles at 45* and 135* and I have loads of them but the correct one is the one shown and thanks to a German friend of mine for putting me straight years back.
The adjustable push rod and return rod are also quite different from the standard Girling parts and need to be machined (see the middle shot) These are clearly shown in the JW Automotive catalogue.
The best way to get the length of the rods is to fit the slave and the clutch lever and measure the stroke and return from the slave to the lever tang as it will depend on your bell-housing casting geometry.
Obtaining the splined lever will be another problem as these are pretty rare these days.
Keith S,
and your location is ??
Sunny Melbourne, Trevor.
Cheers
Keith
Okay, we've managed to narrow it down from 'Australia' to 'Melbourne'.
Let's put it this way. If I was to mail you a letter, just exactly what would I have to put on the front of the envelope to ensure that it would be delivered to you? And if I was to wish to ring you, just what numbers would I have to punch into my phone to ensure that you picked up at the other end? :laugh:
I'm very conscious of forum rules, particularly 4c.
My aim was to add a bit of history and sound engineering for these fabulous cars.
I'll check with the administrator as to whether it's in order to post contact details.
____________________Keith
are you very far from sandown ?? I just might happen to be there next week