Progress on our RF40

Just to let everyone know how we (my son and myself) are progressing, but no pictures, my son has yet to set up the web site for pictures - I am computer DUMB.

We have the suspension complete, and the steering is about 80%. Brakes are done except tubing - seriously considering using SS braided lines - Robert says to do hard tubing but so far neither one of us can bend the pipe (bundy) so it looks good. For fun we completed the insturemnt panel.

Only one mistake - I popped the bearing raceout, but a phone cal to RF gave instructions to fix and they were spot-on in their instructions. It works out great that we do most of the work in the evening which is morning in the land down under, so a quick phone call cna get the answer.

 

[Ron Earp]

Don't use braided lines. I thought this might be a solution, but it isn't. The braided lines that are already used are longer than you really want. Braided lines contribute to the squishy pedal feel and are not acceptable.

Hershal bent the hard stuff for me and showed me how to do it. It isn't hard, I could have done it myself but my biggest hurdle was two shi*&$ flairing tools that wouldn't work at all. These convinced me I didn't know what the hell I was doing. Once we got a working flair tool from Lynn I was in good shape.

I'm in your area frequently and if you need I'll be happy to come by and help some, no problem.

Ron

 

I too had the problem with the flairing tool. I thought it was good quality (Eastwood and was US made) but the yoke broke on first flair - it was sent back today. The other issue is the bending tool. Any help on what tools ( and where you can buy) would be a help.

Actually we may be in area in near future - my son is looking at schools (East coast and below Mason-Dixon line). Would like to stop in and see progress (and ask questions).

Thanks

 

First, let me say I've gone through a LOT of brake lines. I think the local parts store has sold more steel lines in a month than over two years. I too seriosuly considered braided lines, but I went steel.

First, with the 3/16 lines, you can bend them fine using your thumbs. For nice tight good looking bends I use a small tubing bender, about 2" in diameter. Practice makes good - not perfect. I also threw away a couple of double flaring tools until I bought a good one from Sears. One HUGE thing - use a vise. After securing the tube in the flaring yoke, set the whole thing in a vice. Works great.

Lastly, for the connections to the AN fittings, I bought an AN flaring tool from Aircraft Spruce. I don't think you should use a 45 flare on a 37, at least that's what Carroll Smith says, and if he says it, I believe it. (If every fitting was AN, the whole job would be a lot easier.) One thing, though. There are two bulkhead fittings for the 3/16 line that use AN3 fittings from Speedflo. However, I threw away the couplings and ordered the correct nuts with collars from Aircraft Spruce (AN819-3D and AN818-3D). This gives support to the AN flare which is not a double flare.

Now, after all is done, I won't say mine are beautiful, but the ones visible to roving eyes look decent enough (at least in my mind).

Feel free to contact me if I can be of more help.